Making Safety Valves.

Discussion in 'Boilers' started by Tony Bird, Oct 22, 2012.

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  1. Oct 27, 2012 #21

    Beachside_Hank

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    Your theory of operation is correct as far as I know. I remember in Boilerman school while in the Navy, the seating area of the safety was designed to “pop” at a given pressure, in the case of our ship’s boiler that was 610 p.s.i. What the internal flange did was increase the surface area such that the escaping steam would hold the valve open until a lesser pressure was achieved, something like 580 p.s.i. if I recall; simple, reliable, very few moving parts.
     
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  2. Nov 10, 2012 #22

    locoman

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    A most informative and well presented thread. And very clear photographs! Well done.
     
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  3. Nov 6, 2018 #23

    Luke

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    Great instructive thread and posting Tony, Thank you very much. I'm using your guide to make several myself. One tiny question regarding the used 'ball' what can you suggest where to locate them, or just use some scrap from old ball bearings ?
    Thanks,
    and Best Regards,
    Luc
     
  4. Nov 7, 2018 #24

    Tony Bird

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    Hi Luc,

    The balls are stainless steel and I get them from am model engineering suppliers here in the UK; I often use Blackgates Engineering. I don't think it would be a good idea to use steel balls I have used bronze balls which are also available but I usually use stainless steel.

    Regards Tony.
     
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  5. Nov 7, 2018 #25

    Buzbey2014

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    Hi,
    Can you tell me which ME had the info on converting safety valves you mentioned?
    Thanks
    Ken
     
  6. Nov 7, 2018 #26

    Luke

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    Tony,
    Thanks for the info. I will try to get some over here.
    Cheers,
     
  7. Nov 7, 2018 #27

    Tony Bird

    Tony Bird

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    Hi Ken,

    Can you tell me which ME had the info on converting safety valves you mentioned?

    I tell fibs! It wasn't the ME that had the article but Engineering in Miniature July 2006; it was titled 'SAFETY VALVES-Some alterations in designs' by Gordon Smith.

    If you cannot get a copy email me direct gaynorandtony@btinternet.com and I will send you a scan.

    Regards Tony.
     
  8. Nov 9, 2018 #28

    Jennifer Edwards

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    Thanks for sharing this with us.

    That is a really great Turret Lathe. When I actually made a living as a machinist, I loved when I had use of an accurate and powerful turret lathe for multiple part runs. It made life so much easier.

    Nice job!
     
  9. Nov 9, 2018 #29

    goldstar31

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    I see that ArcEurotrade still sell one at £78-ish but Lawrence Sparey writing in the Amateurs Lathe book published drawings.

    I've a turret for the bed on the Myford Super 7-- but have never used it. Cost me about £45 second hand.

    For those who want one, Ken Metcalf wrote details of his which fitted his ML7 in Model Engineer.

    Norm
     
  10. Nov 9, 2018 #30

    fcheslop

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  11. Nov 9, 2018 #31

    Jennifer Edwards

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    Thanks Norm,

    at the moment I am using an Axminster SC2, basically a 7x12, so it is quite small to fit a turret to.

    But a gal can dream!
     
  12. Nov 9, 2018 #32

    goldstar31

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    Apart from the length between centres, your SC2 is not much different to his ML7.
    I was hoping to remove the tailstock on my slightly larger Sieg C4 now fitted with a Vertical Mill which ----won't work. I would guess that Ken Metcalf's turret would give you more room.
    Drop me a note if I can help

    Regards

    Norm

    PS. I'm still dream at 88!o_O:oops:
     
  13. Nov 9, 2018 #33

    Jennifer Edwards

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    orm,

    I had no clue that they made one small enough for my lathe. I just had to cut four parts that required three different cutters and a die. it woud have saved me an additional 12 setups if i had one. I will see if I can suss one out. If I strike out I wil drop you a line.

    Thanks again,
    jen
     
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  14. Nov 9, 2018 #34

    goldstar31

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    I hav e macular degeneration but Metcalf- as far as I can see, made the turret out of a hexagon with sides 3.75 and the block was 1.5" thick. Again, he talked of lathes other than the mentioned Myfords.

    I printed it out - in case?

    N
     
  15. Nov 9, 2018 #35

    Jennifer Edwards

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    I would love to read it, do you have a link?
     
  16. Nov 9, 2018 #36

    fcheslop

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  17. Nov 9, 2018 #37

    goldstar31

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    Deleted- sorry!
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2018
  18. Nov 9, 2018 #38

    abby

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    This is the ideal machine for mass producing small parts.
    [​IMG]
    It's a Pultra 1750 with capstan turret and cut-off slide.
    I collected the basics over a couple of years and built a bench/cabinet.
    The 3 phase motor is housed in the cabinet and has inverter control.
    I am looking out for a clutch to avoid switching on/off between parts which can be time consuming and not good for inverters.
    A mechanical collet closure can also be obtained , along with a bar feed this becomes a serious piece of kit.
    Once set up I can safely make a hundred parts without inspection which is helpful.
    <iframe width="560" height="315" src="" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
    These are banjo connectors for a steam loco boiler feed pump I was designing.
    It is easy to get carried away though and make loads more bits than you can realistically use.
    Dan.
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2018
  19. Nov 9, 2018 #39

    fcheslop

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    deleted not relevant to thread
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2018
  20. Nov 10, 2018 #40

    the artfull-codger

    the artfull-codger

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    Hi Tony, I too have a tailstock turret,mines about 45yrs old & they're really usefull, I notice you using your "diamond" turning tool,I also bought mine from australia I have lh & rh & their parting tool all great quality, one thing puzzles me is are you using it on brass or bronze safety valves? I tried mine on brass once & it self feeded in really bad, I was tempted to grind it flat but never bothered as I have tools with no top rake for brass, nice valves & models btw.
    Kind Regards
    Graham.
     

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