Making A Chinese Drill Press Not Suck So Bad?
- Thread starter Twmaster
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Heh... if I remembor correctly it was on sale for $39.99 and I used a 20% cupon.... :bow:
I have a floor standing DP now so I don't use the small one much. The small one i had before this one lasted years and I stripped off the bits and bobs before i tossed it. (Chuck failed.) One of the pulleys still lives on my 8x14 lathe, motor pulley for the variable speed conversion.
Both have made many a hole, but mostly in wood.
I have a floor standing DP now so I don't use the small one much. The small one i had before this one lasted years and I stripped off the bits and bobs before i tossed it. (Chuck failed.) One of the pulleys still lives on my 8x14 lathe, motor pulley for the variable speed conversion.
Both have made many a hole, but mostly in wood.
Guys,
It's drill press, not a jig boring machine or a mill. Just use good quality bits that are properly sharpened and always start in punch mark or a spotting hole and it will work as well as any drill press will. If you need better holes then you need something other than a drill press to make them.
Go make some chips,
Joe
It's drill press, not a jig boring machine or a mill. Just use good quality bits that are properly sharpened and always start in punch mark or a spotting hole and it will work as well as any drill press will. If you need better holes then you need something other than a drill press to make them.
Go make some chips,
Joe
That depends on how lucky you are. Some don't qualify for that description.
If the point of the bit runs in a circle somewhere around the punch mark, then it is not a drill press. Putting the bit in the punch mark before starting the motor is assuming that the motor has enough starting torque to turn the bit. On the first one I had, the original motor did not have enough torque to start if you held the chuck between thumb and forefinger.
China leads the world in motor technology! The Western world is years behind and uses two to three times the amount of material in a motor to obtain the same horsepower. ;D
dsquire
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Twmaster said:The Western world is years behind and uses two to three times the amount of material in a motor to obtain the same horsepower.
China has small horses.
Maybe their Metric Horses! :hDe:
Cheers *knuppel2*
Don
Considering this is the second result on google when searching for "chinese drill press", i thought i would chime in.
I have 2 cheap drill presses, bought one for 60€ (3 pulleys, 10 gears, 500w) and got one for free (5 gears, 250 w). The one i bought always had about 1mm (50 thou) of runout, and i thought it was just the way a cheap drill is expected to be. As i got the second one however, i reconsidered as i measured about 5/100mm (2 thou) of runout on this one.
I finally got around to dislodging the chuck from my first drill (a B16 taper) which was pretty hard to get off, and the taper on it was also running very close to true, so i second that the chuck is the main problem in most cases, not the spindle or quill. I did however have about 4mm of axial movement when the spindle was "hanging loose", which was caused by the lock groove being cut at the wrong location and the upper bearing being a sliding fit. I put in a spring washer and a normal washer on top and replaced the worn bearings, which fixed the problem. I do however find it pretty funny that the chinese actually use regular ball bearings for an aplication that mostly sees axial loads. In my case it was 2 6201zz bearings.
So, when having checked the chuck, taper and bearings in the spindle, the only cause of error left is the large toleranced on the quill and headstock, which is hard to fix without nearly building a new headstock. The drill is however a pretty decent machine after having fixed the above.
Kind regards, Esben
I have 2 cheap drill presses, bought one for 60€ (3 pulleys, 10 gears, 500w) and got one for free (5 gears, 250 w). The one i bought always had about 1mm (50 thou) of runout, and i thought it was just the way a cheap drill is expected to be. As i got the second one however, i reconsidered as i measured about 5/100mm (2 thou) of runout on this one.
I finally got around to dislodging the chuck from my first drill (a B16 taper) which was pretty hard to get off, and the taper on it was also running very close to true, so i second that the chuck is the main problem in most cases, not the spindle or quill. I did however have about 4mm of axial movement when the spindle was "hanging loose", which was caused by the lock groove being cut at the wrong location and the upper bearing being a sliding fit. I put in a spring washer and a normal washer on top and replaced the worn bearings, which fixed the problem. I do however find it pretty funny that the chinese actually use regular ball bearings for an aplication that mostly sees axial loads. In my case it was 2 6201zz bearings.
So, when having checked the chuck, taper and bearings in the spindle, the only cause of error left is the large toleranced on the quill and headstock, which is hard to fix without nearly building a new headstock. The drill is however a pretty decent machine after having fixed the above.
Kind regards, Esben
Wagon173
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Not too hip to drill presses as I got myself a nice jet benchtop and have nothing but good stuff to say about it. Seems that you aught to be able to modify the bearing mount to accept a decent wheel bearing though? Take that with a grain of salt. Good luck, bro!
-Brandon
-Brandon
