Logan 210 questions

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I just got a 1945 Logan 210 and everything is nice an tight except the 3-jaw has about .006-.008 runout at the chuck. I haven't taken it apart to clean yet but was looking for info. on reboring or grinding the jaws. I found a good write up on boring but can't find it again. So much for bookmarks. Also is there a collet system out there that is reasonably priced and works with this machine.
Thanks
Kevin
 
Do a search on ebay for ER32 collets. There are currently complete sets and chucks that fit the MT3 spindle that are very economical.

As to grinding the jaws of a three jaw chuck, the general opinion is that you can only make it accurate at the size where you grind it. Wear and damage in the scroll makes it impossible t have it it linear for all sizes. You can use a badly out of round chuck to do jobs where the entire job is completed with one setup in the chuck.
 
Kevin,

I have already been down the route you need to take to get your machine working accurately again.

Because it is such a rather old lathe (mine is even older), Stans suggestion of a 3MT ER collet chuck is a good one, except with a lathe this old, the spindle hole just might be a bit off wack and worn, in which case it wouldn't be any better than your chuck is. To try it out, clean out the taper, wack a taper up the spout and stick a clock on it, if it is accurate enough for your needs, take Stans advice, otherwise, see below.

Stans suggestion about about grinding the jaws is a valid point on this score, IMHO just not worth the hassle of doing.

Two ways around your problem of getting an accurate method of workholding.

The first is to get your spindle taper reground or machined while it is in the machine, using the machine itself, (don't use reamers, that will only follow the old taper, been there, got the tee shirt). This will allow you to follow the route suggested by Stan and get an accurate but limited workholding.

The second method is to forget about the spindle taper (fix that later) and buy a few screw on backplates, then machine them to fit almost any chuck you require, 5C collet chuck, new 3 jaw etc.
Doing it this way will ensure that everything is spot on accurate to your spindle as it is fitted in the machine. The only thing to worry about then is how accurate the new chuck is, a fairly cheap 3 jaw can have as much as 3 thou runout from new, so always tighten using the same key hole (usually marked on the side of the chuck), because this is the key hole they used when the original grind was done. If there isnt a marking, tighten up in turn using each key hole and find which one gives the least runout, and then mark that hole for permanent use. I have found that four jaw self centreing chucks a lot more accurate. Also consider soft jaws for your self centreing chucks, you can machine them very accurately and have no runout at all.
I fitted a new, cheap 5c collet chuck to a new backplate and even that had 1/2 thou runout (in the chuck itself), which I corrected myself by using a toolpost grinder in the chuck jaw. No runout at all now. 5c collets are only guaranteed accurate to 1/2 thou anyway.

In the UK you can buy backplates ready made for lathes to do just this sort of thing.
Your lathe uses the same size as mine does.

LMS do the same thing
http://littlemachineshop.com/info/spindles.php

These people might be able to help you as they still support all the old Logan lathes.

http://www.loganact.com/

I hope this has helped, and not sent you on a journey of empty wallet and heartbreak.

Precision usually costs.

John
 
Stan and John,

Thanks for the info. I had been looking at the collet sets then looking at the price so that's down the road. Can't convince my kids they can hunt their own food now.

I hadn't checked the spindle with an indicator yet. Just wiped the taper and matched dead centers to the tailstock and didn't see any wobbles and they were dead on center. I have figured out the 4-jaw and once centered a 6 inch cut on 1" dia. aluminum not supported by tailstock measures exact at both ends of the cut. From everything I've read so far I pretty sure that's what I'm looking for.

No to worry John I headed down the road to the empty wallet long ago. Can't be heatbroken now that I got this lathe though. I think my wife understands.

Thanks again I'll be checking the spindle closer in the morning.
About ready for my first engine.

Kevin
 
Here is a link to a thread from a short while ago about collets.
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=1120.0

In that thread I suggested using MT3 collets and posted some pictures. When I did that system, MT3 collets were much cheaper than ER32 collets (no Chinese available) but if you have MT3 collets or can get used ones cheaply, it is another alternative.

Your last post indicates that your spindle is straight and the taper probably just needs to be cleaned and maybe have some burrs removed.
 
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