A bit of background - I've got a large-ish radial engine that requires a propeller maybe 22" to 28" in diameter:
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=14182.0
Finding a prop this large isn't difficult with giant-scale R/C being as popular as it is, but I've always loved the look of variable-pitch propellers... with the round prop root, concealed piston, etc. Years ago, when this engine was made, there was a company called Syn-Tech in Canada who made cool ground-variable props with the correct "look." I bought a 2-bladed hub:
The ground pitch adjustment uses an insert in the hub that bears on pins in the prop root. The prop blades are hard maple. To make the prop work, I had to discard the adjustment mechanism, and machine a new insert. This was OK, because I could still adjust the pitch with a protractor. The keyed round interior of this mechanism is my own fabrication. It's worked well for a long time.
But the overall diameter was too small! Syn-Tech went out of business. Now, there's Moki props and more importantly a nice guy who has revived the line of large props. Blades and hubs are now available. They are expensive, but the quality is very high.
http://www.soloprops.com/
I bought a used 3-blade Moki hub, which is identical to the Syn-tech line. I needed to populate the hub, so I ordered 4 ea. 24" blades from the solo prop guy. They are very nice, but I have a problem... the diameter at the root is exact, but the machined retaining groove in the prop hub has changed profile! It's gone from square, to grooved... Old prop on the left, new on the right.
The fancy new blades no longer fit either hub. I have a couple of options:
1) I can machine the propeller blade root. I have done almost NO wood turning in my life, and I am a bit hesitant.
2) I can buy a new 3 or 4 blade hub (cha-ching! $250)
3) I can modify my own hub(s) for the new, rounded retaining flange. This would be relatively easy for the 2-blade hub, much trickier for the 3-blade hub.
Option 1 seems the most obvious. I have 4 blades (background, first pic), and I'd rather not scrap any, but I could live with one lost to buffoonery. I plan on using Min-wax wood hardener afterwards, or perhaps some thin epoxy painted in to harden and strengthen the root. These props will spin nowhere near max RPM.
Any suggestions on how to execute all of this would be appreciated. I also am planning a new stainless steel inner hub for the 3-bladed system. When done, it should look cool.
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=14182.0
Finding a prop this large isn't difficult with giant-scale R/C being as popular as it is, but I've always loved the look of variable-pitch propellers... with the round prop root, concealed piston, etc. Years ago, when this engine was made, there was a company called Syn-Tech in Canada who made cool ground-variable props with the correct "look." I bought a 2-bladed hub:
The ground pitch adjustment uses an insert in the hub that bears on pins in the prop root. The prop blades are hard maple. To make the prop work, I had to discard the adjustment mechanism, and machine a new insert. This was OK, because I could still adjust the pitch with a protractor. The keyed round interior of this mechanism is my own fabrication. It's worked well for a long time.
But the overall diameter was too small! Syn-Tech went out of business. Now, there's Moki props and more importantly a nice guy who has revived the line of large props. Blades and hubs are now available. They are expensive, but the quality is very high.
http://www.soloprops.com/
I bought a used 3-blade Moki hub, which is identical to the Syn-tech line. I needed to populate the hub, so I ordered 4 ea. 24" blades from the solo prop guy. They are very nice, but I have a problem... the diameter at the root is exact, but the machined retaining groove in the prop hub has changed profile! It's gone from square, to grooved... Old prop on the left, new on the right.
The fancy new blades no longer fit either hub. I have a couple of options:
1) I can machine the propeller blade root. I have done almost NO wood turning in my life, and I am a bit hesitant.
2) I can buy a new 3 or 4 blade hub (cha-ching! $250)
3) I can modify my own hub(s) for the new, rounded retaining flange. This would be relatively easy for the 2-blade hub, much trickier for the 3-blade hub.
Option 1 seems the most obvious. I have 4 blades (background, first pic), and I'd rather not scrap any, but I could live with one lost to buffoonery. I plan on using Min-wax wood hardener afterwards, or perhaps some thin epoxy painted in to harden and strengthen the root. These props will spin nowhere near max RPM.
Any suggestions on how to execute all of this would be appreciated. I also am planning a new stainless steel inner hub for the 3-bladed system. When done, it should look cool.