Knurling tool photos for Kerrin Galvin

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Kerrin wants to make a knurling tool.I am not sure what photos are still
accessable so will post a selection and answer any questions.Anyone else
wants to make one please ask thru this thread KNURL 16.jpg

knurl 302.jpg

knurl 303.jpg

kn 02.JPG

mark3 02.JPG

qctp 01.JPG

qctp 02.jpg

qctp 03.jpg

wbrkt 02.jpg
 
Hi Bazmak,
Thanks for posting up the pictures. They are a big help! Question for you, it appears that you have offset the setscrews towards the outer end, giving clearance at the tool holder end.....understandable, at a guess 3 mm? Also back from the working face 1.5 or 2 mm? Also understandable as if the wheels are centered they will over hang the block 1.5 mm.

Cheers Kerrin
 
Nothing is very important but the wheels are just clear of each other
and do not rub.If the wheels are further apart then they may cut better
but not cut small dia bar.I was very happy with what is shown and did not experiment any further. I call the 2 parts the knurl head and holder
The knurl head is turned from 25mm sq bar to 16 dia x 10 long and drilled
6.5 clear for M6 alllthread. The 25mm sq is lightly cleaned and faced to nom 25lg. The pivot fixings are 14mm from mounting face and 7mm from the front
to give wheel o,hang at the front of 7mm and rear clearance of 4mm
Non of which is very important.The boby has various forms to suit the lathe and toolholder.I made 1 for the small qctp and 1 for the large qctp and 1 to clamp in
a std 4 way toolpost. Also a solid block one nom 40mm sq to sit on the
clamping pin on the compound.Whatever suits you. It is important to get the knurl wheels that have a sharp corners as that is what doues all the work
Some have radius corners and would be no good.Although mine show no signs of wear they could easily be ground on the flat faces to renew the corners.I bought on Ebay a single wheel knurling tool that came with 3
sets of wheels and then bought another pitch pair to give me a full set
All for about $20. When you make the knurl head make 3 or 4 and fit the wheels.Then you only have to undo the m6 knob to change the wheels
My first one i made shouldered studs from cap screws but later made brass top hat bushes and used smaller fixing button head cap screws.Will post further photos when i find them. Regards Barry
 
Hi Barry,
Thanks for the details! You have confirmed what I was thinking. I have a block that would make a holder, but will look at making a quick change holder as well.

Cheers Kerrin
 
Hi Barry & All,
Almost finished my knurled to Your design!
So here's the pictures....
IMG_0711.JPG
This is a block I started on to make a QCTH out off then thought better of it & brought one! So time to make use of it. So I measured up all my holders & drew them up in CAD & off to see my local water cut guy! He pointed out that time on the table costs, so if I could reduce the thickness I'd save, so back home & on to the bandsaw....
IMG_0712.JPG
Not long latter
IMG_0713.JPG
A few days latter...
IMG_0715.JPG
IMG_0716.JPG
You will see that on the left side it doesn't look great, the cause was the jet run out at end of cut, fixed with a couple of strokes of the file! If I had it cut from plate it would of been fine.
IMG_0717.JPG
Here's the tool holders, made as a pair, & my hi tech linisher for the clean up!
IMG_0718.JPG
Here's a family shot so far! The main holder has be cut down to size...I love my bandsaw!...drilled thru 6.1mm, counter bored 16 mm x 11 deep, the tool holder "posts" are 16mm x 10mm long

The next 3 shots show how I set the tool holders in mill using an ER block & rotating them to 45 degrees to cut the scallop out then set to 78degreess to cut the relief
IMG_0719.JPG
IMG_0720.JPG
IMG_0721.JPG
More to come

Cheers Kerrin
 
Hi again,
Here's the rest of the photos....
Quick mandrel to hold the brass bushes for final sizing
IMG_0722.JPG
The 4 tool holders!
IMG_0723.JPG
Setting to center height, you might be able to see the laser dot on the corner of the holder...
IMG_0724.JPG
First cut! I put on 0.5mm, 60 rpm & a slow feed...looks pretty good me! This is going to be the nut for the holder
IMG_0725.JPG
IMG_0726.JPG
Hopefully you can also see the swarf that was produced....these really do cut! The swarf coming off the top knurling then gets added to the lower, I had made the brass bushes to give minimal space between the knurl & holder, the swarf got in & locked the lower knurl up! So I took a little off the top hut on the bush, made things much better.
So a question for Barry.....how much space did you allow?
Here's trial two....the first picture show what happens when, on the left the knurls aren't on center, the right after adjusting & the results
IMG_0728.JPG
IMG_0727.JPG

Thanks too Barry for a fun project that I'm sure will get lots of use over the coming years! If you are still think about making one....go for it!

Cheers Kerrin
 
great to see it works ok for you. Try different speeds around 180 and hand feed in then out with a full depth of cut about 30 thou. The knurls only need to set to approx centre,then the screw unlocked to allow the knurls to float to centre
then can be nipped finger tight.A knurled screw or plastic knob works well
So have you made 3 heads for c,m and fine knurls.Looks good keep posted
 
Hi Barry,
Here's the finished knurling tool.
As you can see made 4 heads with 4 different knurls. I just brought the wheels. First thing to make was the locking knob, then the height adjuster for the QCTH
IMG_0731.JPG
IMG_0732.JPG

I'll have a play with speeds & feed when I have time, thanks for the pointers.
Not sure how much use the fine or coarse ones will get but at $15 for the wheels not really an issue. Can always get some other pitches & swap them around.

Cheers Kerrin
 
Reposted as requested for gerrit. Photos by Kerrin who has also made one
Dont be afraid to experiment with speeds and feeds etc.It works well for me
but maybe can be improved upon
 
Kerrin
I regret not ticking a 'Likes' because I'm not the world's best nurler or advocate QCTP's( cos I'm a Dodo which has lost its last egg!

What I did like was the use of your little angle gauge thing on a 6 x 4 saw.

I was surprised to find how versatile you used them both together.

Thanks again

Norm
 
Hi,
Is there a video showing how this system works? I don't understand it. Must be getting too old.
Alan C.
 
Hi Gerritt & Norm,
It was a fun project that has given me a great tool at the end!

Norm,
The digital angle gauge is a neat tool. Makes it easy to set things like the head in the mill to be consistent angle between parts...even though it's not required here! As to the QCTH yes well I love mine! It would have been far cheeper to make a block to fit an existing holder....it cost the equivalent of 3 off the shelf holders for the water cutting! Oh I also made a boring bar holder one for a 20mm boring bar that I have been using rather dodgy for a number of years, it'll get more use now it's a lot safer to use!
Make one Norm you will find that knurling becomes easy! My procedure is start the lathe, move the knurls up so both are rotating, lightly tighten the knob just enuff to hold the tool holder, move the cross slide back towards the tailstock, the knurls will stop, put on your cut, on the 1.0 mm knurl I've been using 0.5mm engage the power feed & watch the knurls form! Apply LOADS of cutting fluid. One cut, perfect knurl! Well to me they look pretty good. Just did another yesterday on Barry's suggestion I step up the speed from 60 to 120 rpm & a feed of 0.044 mm/rev worked great.
There was a couple of comments on Barry's post about these not cutting, on this mine sure leaves a a lot of cuttings for a system that doesn't cut!
My bandsaw has had a few....understatement......mods done to it about 12 months ago here's a link if you are interested in another project.......

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,6363.0.html

Barry,
I had a light bulb moment yesterday when I had a sort up of the lathe tools. The tool heads don't need individual threaded rods! It dawned on me that the knob fitted securely to one rod could be screwed into the head required, for me it will make storage easier!

Alan,
Barry's post on knurling has a couple of videos....think the title is "help on knurling "

Cheers Kerrin
 
Thank you for a different slant on things. I realise that my (t)rusty 6 x4 saw is probably more capable than I'm using now.

Unfortunately I am banned from the web site mentioned. Why I am a pariah is remains unclear. Probably this happens when someone has been making models since- would you believe- 1939 and I made my first doodle bug engine at 14 years in 1944. Between the Luftwaffe and me, there was little to choose!
I can repeat my delight in finding something that hasn't been flogged and flogged on various sites and seems to be a refreshing change.


Norm
 
Progress so far. I decided to mount the knurl carrier at an angle onto the mounting block so that I don't have to rotate my QCTP for knurling. Still have to make some brass bushings and trim the face of the carrier to clear work piece. The mounting block will get milled down to fit an AXA tool holder. (don't have a large enough 60 degree dovetail cutter to make a full block.)

The wheels are .75" diameter, carrier and mounting block are .75 and .875 square cold rolled. SHCS are 10-24 and 10-32.

Gerrit

20171005_171605.jpg
 
Like the idea of moumting the head at an angle although it does cpmplicate things as you will need more backrake/clearance on the head and rotating the holder only 2 degrees is sufficient for the wheels to cut well. As well as a holder for the qctp you can also make a holder to fit the 4 way toolpost or even directly to the compound.I have tried all methods and swap between them
I fitted allthread to all the heads and have 4 in total each with 4 different pitch rollers.I much prefer to just swap head assys between laths/holders.Also tried
knurled thumbscrews (homemade0 and plastic knobs.Let us know how you go
with the 19mm dia wheels
 

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