I've been playing with my dividing head

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gabby

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As the title suggests, I've been having a play with my dividing head.
I have been house bound for a couple of weeks now, and managed to get some quality alone time in my shed, I started out by making a steel boss for a flywheel on my lathe and it grew from there.
Sorry there is no build log or photo's, as I didn't know where this was going to go.
I slipped the boss into the div head and the flywheel just emerged from there.
It is 7 3/4" by 3/4 thick and bored to suit a 1/2" shaft.
The boss started out at 45mm dia and is now 1 1/4" at its thickest point and 1" at its minimum.
The spokes are 6mm s/s rod from a wrecked printer, the brass is from a pipe flange and the heavy steel ring was carved out of a piece of plate.
At this stage I thought, if I leave the inner dia a few thou smaller than the brass ring, I could heat shrink it on.
So after the boss, the brass ring and spokes where fitted together and checked for true, I then heated the outer steel ring and simply slipped it over the brass and quenched it to cool it down.
I also had to re-bore the 1/2" hole as the spokes where slightly proud and jutting into where the main shaft was to fit, at this stage I thought hey why don't I try to make it a taper lock, I made the angle of the compound slide on my lathe a 5 degree angle and bored the boss out then using the same setting ,I made a tapered section on a 30mm shaft and hey presto the job was done after drilling and tapping the locking screws in.
It will be finished when I have polished and painted etc.

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G,
Just a little info you may not know about.

You have two through holes drilled to clamp the taper, you should also have two holes drilled and tapped the same as your clamping bolts to allow you to break the taper if it locks up at 90 degrees to the other two. Just screw the clamping bolts into the two tapped holes and it will push the taper out of it's hole.
You should also have a split along the tapered insert, it is the taper being clamped down onto the shaft that makes them so accurate.
I have found that this method is one of the truest holding systems for flywheels or pullies, most other methods tend to throw the flywheel or pulley slightly off wack.


John
 
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Hi John, thanx for the info, I did consider doing exactly what you have described and then thought that once the flywheel is attached, I should have no need to remove it that often.
I do have a question though, is 5 degrees to much of an angle or would a lesser taper angle be more suitable? ie:- 2-3 degrees.
Now I will have to think of an engine to put it on, maybe a Webster or similar. Any suggestions
Cheers
Graham
 
Graham,

The last one I did was 3.5 degrees, and it worked a treat, and I don't suppose you will have any problem with yours at 5 degrees.

This was for a French designed table engine.

flywheel86_zpsu0t8cdmb.jpg


The gap is there to force the taper to collapse and grip the shaft, that is why removal screws are required.

flywheel96_zpswz9t8lgk.jpg


John
 
Nice job, Gabby. Isn't it great when you go into your shop to play, without any definite plan, and something beautiful emerges. Your flywheel looks great.---Brian
 
Hi Graham,
A nice looking flywheel.
I did something similar a while ago i.e. made a flywheel just for the hell of it to see if I could. Mine ended up 139mm dia. by 31mm wide. I ended up designing an engine to use it.
If you are interested, the plans and instructions are here:
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=26052
Your flywheel would fit with a few small changes to the design.
Regards,
Alan C.
 
Hi there Alan, Wow, that is a beautiful engine and looks like a relatively easy build, however on reading your notes ,I see you recommend a smaller diameter flywheel than the one you made.
I am thinking that I might go into the shed with an IC engine in mind and see what falls out of my tools.
I do like the adventure of finding something that wasn't there before.
Many thanx
Graham
 
Hi there Brian, I watch your builds in awe, as getting to your level of expertise, may take a little while for me.
Many thanks for your comments and I hope to have an engine worthy of putting my flywheel on.
Graham
 
Graham,
Flywheels are like horses for courses, the one I showed above was for a steam/air driven model, so didn't need much outer inertia to keep the model turning.

Yours on the other hand has that steel outer band, and is a perfect candidate for a fairly slow running i/c engine or an air/steam one supposed to emulate an i/c engine.

Chuck Fellows did some of those types and they really are nice engines and not too difficult to make from raw materials. This is one of his i/c designs.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=21383


John
 
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