Is it possible to set up an apartment shop?

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How much modification do these machines need before you can use them to make parts, or could you use them out of the box to make parts even if there are some flaws? I ask because as a strict beginner, I doubt I would know what I was even looking at in terms of flaws, let alone how to fix them.

Apart from removing preservative greases and subsequent lubt=rication. I would caution you NOT to modify.
Instead, I would suggest that you make nice little bits of tooling which will improve familiarity with the lathe. Make a lathe tool height thing. Make a few tee bolts, Make a set of holders for taps and dies, Make boring bars.

Make something which is just within your improving capabilities. You'll be surprised how useful little half hour jobs are.

Today, I made a set of holding down bolts for my new/old lathe. A length of studding, a few washers and nuts and a couple of spanners. Next, I'm going to make a thing from a bit of round, half it and use it to measure from.

As simple as that

Regards

Norman
 
You can use them straight out of the box and they are reasonably accurate
Once you have made a few things like a test piece parallel,about 1"dia as long
as possible between h,stock and centre and adjust to get parallel you can the start on mods.I must say I found the mods very enjoyable and a good way to
get to know your machine.There are lots of sites just google sieg lathe mods
its a whole new world out there.If you can find my threads under Bazmak
I described everything I did in order to improve the lathe,all from my experience and all other peoples.I was a little wary of stripping down the lathe at first but after a while became easy to understand how everything fits together.One important mod is to make tapered gibs,i found it easy even
without a mill. Regards barry
 
Another question, for machining in an apartment, will I need cutting fluid or can I just machine dry? Also, what is the purpose of cutting fluid if one can just go without it?
 
There will be a lot of disagreement but a small paint brush with a dab of cooking oil might suffice. It will leave the place smelling of kitchen.

I use lard oil.

Regards


Norman
 
I mainly cut dry.A coolant system has the advantage of keeping the tool cool and clearing the chips but is too messy for most home machinists
Carbide tips work good dry but not as good a finish.I use a squirt of WD40. A MUST FOR ULUMINIUM
Great for tapping and does help for machining My advice for you in an apartment is to cut dry and keep a can of Wd40 handy.A small paint brush to clear chips to avoid double cutting and a dab of veg. oil works ok
We are all different so suck it and see.Working in your bedroom is not the same as in a full workshop with coolant systems etc.Try to contact a fellow member local,buy him a beer and see how he does things. Regards barry
 
What do you all consider to be the largest lathe an apartment should have (noise-wise)? For example, I have also been looking at the Grizzly 10" x 22" Bench lathe (weighs 330 lbs and is 46 inches long), the Grizzly 4000 9" x 19" Bench lathe (250 lbs and 37 inches), and the Grizzly 8" x 16" Variable-Speed lathe (166 lbs, 36 inches).

All of these would still fit on the workbench I am planning on getting and to move them as needed, I figure I would get something like the Harbor Freight Cherry Picker folding engine hoist and use that to move the lathe off the workbench and onto the floor as needed if I want to use the bench for something else. However, I don't know if lathes this big would put out too much noise or too many chips is the thing.
 
W would you want a lathe that size in an apartment.It implys that you are going to machine large chuncks.A definite no no
I find the sc2 variable speed very quiet but when I got the sc4 it was noisy
I would suggest the sc2 vary speed with 14" or 16" bed,still capable of turning large chuncks
 
What do you all consider to be the largest lathe an apartment should have (noise-wise)? For example, I have also been looking at the Grizzly 10" x 22" Bench lathe (weighs 330 lbs and is 46 inches long), the Grizzly 4000 9" x 19" Bench lathe (250 lbs and 37 inches), and the Grizzly 8" x 16" Variable-Speed lathe (166 lbs, 36 inches).
You do realize that you need a fairly strong bench to handle these lathes. As such you will likely have to fabricate it yourself. This also means a bench on wheels if you ever expect to move it around.

Here is another reality: no matter how big your lathe you will find a job where it is too small.
All of these would still fit on the workbench I am planning on getting and to move them as needed,
Maybe! While the working dimensions are similar the actual space used on the bench will vary a bit.
I figure I would get something like the Harbor Freight Cherry Picker folding engine hoist and use that to move the lathe off the workbench and onto the floor as needed if I want to use the bench for something else. However, I don't know if lathes this big would put out too much noise or too many chips is the thing.


Moving a lathe on and off a bench is not something you want to do often. As for machine tools the real noise doesn't start until you cut something. You can control that noise, to some extent, by adjusting how aggressively you cut.

As to lathes I have a 9x20, which is a nice machine for the price. However I'm not a real fan of screw on chucks, they effectively reduce machine flexibility. Given that you might want to consider the smaller machine or something else in the catalog, just realize that is a personal perspective.

In any event I still haven't seen in this thread a good indication of what you expect to do with the lathe! Obviously model making is in the works but what are the specifics. A steam driven locomotive in 7.25" gage requires a much larger lathe than gage one some guys spend a lifetime building stuff that fits in your hand.
 
W would you want a lathe that size in an apartment.It implys that you are going to machine large chuncks.A definite no no
I find the sc2 variable speed very quiet but when I got the sc4 it was noisy
I would suggest the sc2 vary speed with 14" or 16" bed,still capable of turning large chuncks

By "chuncks," do you mean chunks as in large chunks of metal, or chucks, as in machining large chucks to use?
 
You do realize that you need a fairly strong bench to handle these lathes. As such you will likely have to fabricate it yourself. This also means a bench on wheels if you ever expect to move it around.

There are benches that are rated for much more than the weight of the lathe. For example, Gladiator Garage Works has benches rated for up to 3,000 lbs. Grizzly also sells stands designed for some of their particular lathes.

In terms of specifics, I am not sure. That is why I am looking to the bigger lathes if any would be doable. I figure I would move to larger sizes later on in terms of projects, and I am always reading to buy the largest lathe one can.
 
If you are working 'indoors' you will be facing many things and some are noise, smells, swarf and finding storage for the mass of stuff that becomes necessary in the pursuit of your hobby.

For the time being, I'd concentrate on a small lathe recalling that you might want a drilling machine and a mill.

Meantime, enjoy


Norman
 
Can the 7x16 do knurling? I was reading that it is poor at that because the amount of pressure required causes the lathe to flex.
 
Can the 7x16 do knurling? I was reading that it is poor at that because the amount of pressure required causes the lathe to flex.

I'm guessing but would think that one of your first 'constructions' should be a two wheel scissors knurling tool ( or three).:hDe:

Might I repeat the points about making 'goodies'? You learn and improve your skills.

For an Easter Present, I'd lash out and buy something like George Thomas's Model Engineers Workshop Manual. There are others but I'm onto my second copy. Wore out my original one:) You'll have to modify some bits but it is all part of the learning process.

Cheers

Norman
 
I'm guessing but would think that one of your first 'constructions' should be a two wheel scissors knurling tool ( or three).:hDe:

Might I repeat the points about making 'goodies'? You learn and improve your skills.

For an Easter Present, I'd lash out and buy something like George Thomas's Model Engineers Workshop Manual. There are others but I'm onto my second copy. Wore out my original one:) You'll have to modify some bits but it is all part of the learning process.

Cheers

Norman

Thanks, yes both of George Thomas's books I am planning to get:cool:
 
Another question on the larger (by hobby standards) lathes, but are there any special electrical power requirements for them? For example, I know some hobbyists get like the PM1340GT which is about 1,000 lbs and the South Bend 10K which is about 500 lbs. Do those just use a standard three-prong outlet or would they need special wiring? (though I doubt I would be going that big in the apartment, but just wondering!).
 
Another question on the larger (by hobby standards) lathes, but are there any special electrical power requirements for them? For example, I know some hobbyists get like the PM1340GT which is about 1,000 lbs and the South Bend 10K which is about 500 lbs. Do those just use a standard three-prong outlet or would they need special wiring? (though I doubt I would be going that big in the apartment, but just wondering!).

My 10K runs from 120 volt 15A standard outlet. I think it actually draws
8 or 9 Amps.

Pete
 
My 10K runs from 120 volt 15A standard outlet. I think it actually draws
8 or 9 Amps.

Pete

Okay, from what I see, the average electrical outlet in the U.S. is 110-120 volts. Most of the lathes say that is what the motor is, however the 10K says: 110V/220V, single-phase, 60 Hz. Don't know what the 220V part means, I assume it must be okay though if yours runs from a standard outlet.
 
Larger electric motor, usually over about 1/2 hp, are better when run at the higher 220v supply. That reduces the starting current and motor heating. 220v is usually wired into housees, but is almost never wired to other than a kitchen circuit. For a bedroom shop stick with small machines and motors under 1/2hp.
 
Okay, from what I see, the average electrical outlet in the U.S. is 110-120 volts. Most of the lathes say that is what the motor is, however the 10K says: 110V/220V, single-phase, 60 Hz. Don't know what the 220V part means, I assume it must be okay though if yours runs from a standard outlet.

It means that the motor can be easily changed to run from 220VAC.

Pete
 
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