Iguage junk digital scales

[kwoodhands]

I bought a set of these scales, 6" , 12" and 24" aluminum rails. Only one of the displays works.The other two jump all over the place. I know if the rail is installed backwards this will happen. The display jumps even with no rails installed.
These are the newer type that do not use a battery, adapter from the wire to a receptacle.
I contacted Igauge 3 times and never got a reply. I am stuck with two pieces of junk displays. Do not recall what I paid but it was over a $100.00. I reinstalled the old display and they work fine. I got these because the batteries are a PITA.
The display that works is on the X axis of my lathe. I removed the scale and the slider and installed a bad one for a test. Scale jumped all over. Then installed the good one on the X axis of my mill. Worked fine.
Besides fixing the bad displays and sliders with a 12 lb. sledge, anyone have a better idea.
thanks, mike

 

[gbritnell]

I had written about my experience with Igaging scales in the past. I have a 36 inch one installed on my lathe and it continually resets while using it. Like you, contacting Igage was fruitless. I know it's of little consolation but the best option is to buy something of more quality.

 

[pete]

Fwiw I guess those bar type scales do look like a much cheaper alternative to even the more conventional lower end $300-$400 dro's with glass or magnetic scales. Unfortunately and just as you've found, not only do they suffer high failure rates, but also longevity issues just due to the cutting fluids, oil and swarf laden environment there expected to operate in. There literally not designed to operate in that kind of environment. Secondly it takes a fair amount of digging to research some metrology basics that many either don't fully understand or possibly get confused about. I've seen that happen on multiple YouTube videos where many assume a measuring tools display resolution is it's actual accuracy level. Resolution is simply how many digits there are to the right of the decimal point. Any measuring tools accuracy level involves it's repeatability which is directly related to the materials used, possible heat treating, grinding, and the care and accuracy that went into building it to obtain an expected high level of repeatability. As an extreme example, you could have a tool with 1/1,000,000ths divisions on an analog or digital display, but it's made so poorly it only has a repeatable accuracy level of + - .010". Since nothing is ever "perfect", world wide metrology manufacturing standards even if followed by any manufacturer also allow a + - one count inaccuracy and repeatability while still passing the most stringent of quality controls. In other words a display with .001" divisions can vary as much as .002" and still pass. Yes it should be better than that and almost everything I've checked with a Mit. or Starrett name on it generally falls about in the middle of the allowable. In comparison to those much cheaper Igaging bar scales, the same product built by Mitutoyo or Starrett are at best sort of a digital counter that should measure somewhere within .002" of repeatability and accuracy in the absolute best of conditions.

My Mitutoyo digital calipers as an example have a resolution down to the nearest .0005". I've tested them and my own technique on high end gauge blocks by first allowing those gauge blocks and the caliper itself to thermaly stabilize to the same approximate temperature for a couple of hrs and ensuring everything was spotless. Under those almost ideal conditions I can get roughly within .0015"- .002" for there average repeatable accuracy. So in reality that 1/2 thou digit can be ignored since it's completely meaningless. Yet I've seen YT posters quoting that half 10th digit on sub $20 digital calipers as if that level of measurement accuracy was even obtainable. With more typical shop measurement conditions, part surface quality etc I'd expect no better than maybe being within .005". If my known part accuracy level has to be better than that then it's obviously time for a micrometer. Compounding the problems on a lathe with even the most expensive of these bar type scales is any inaccuracy is doubled when machining a parts diameter. Yes they can be of real help instead of having to count hand wheel turns, but under those average shop conditions I'd expect not much better than maybe .005"-.010" and only that if I personally ran test checks of each bar scales accuracy using known size and measured test items such as gauge blocks, 123 blocks etc. Even my + $3k Newall mill dro and it's Micro Syn scales came with a factory recommendation of running those same test checks after it was installed. It even allows error compensation to be programmed in if any accuracy errors are found during what Newall calls scale mapping. In my opinion some of the manufacturer's depend on the lack of knowledge by end users simply to make sales to people with far higher expectations than the equipment can deliver. As George said your best option would be to buy something a whole lot better that does meet your expectations. Most here seem to understand how useful well made qctp's and there repeatable tool positioning is for multiple part production and are willing to pay to get that. But + - .0001" accuracy on it is wasted without being 100% confident your dro is capable of the same.

 

[ChazzC]

I bought a set of these scales, 6" , 12" and 24" aluminum rails. Only one of the displays works.The other two jump all over the place. I know if the rail is installed backwards this will happen. The display jumps even with no rails installed.
These are the newer type that do not use a battery, adapter from the wire to a receptacle.
I contacted Igauge 3 times and never got a reply. I am stuck with two pieces of junk displays. Do not recall what I paid but it was over a $100.00. I reinstalled the old display and they work fine. I got these because the batteries are a PITA.
The display that works is on the X axis of my lathe. I removed the scale and the slider and installed a bad one for a test. Scale jumped all over. Then installed the good one on the X axis of my mill. Worked fine.
Besides fixing the bad displays and sliders with a 12 lb. sledge, anyone have a better idea.
thanks, mike

I have been very happy with the Stainless Steel iGaging scales I installed on my mini mill. I cut the scales to length, flipped the read head on the Y-Axis to change the positive travel direction and installed chip shields on both the X- & Y-Axes scales.

I agree that the batteries can be a pain, and originally used the power adapters. I then replaced the iGaging readouts with Yuriy’s new version TouchDRO and have what I consider to be a very good, reliable system.

While I’m sure that I would have problems if I ran high volumes of coolant or was running a production shop, but the system is a good match for my needs and probably exceeds the accuracy and repeatability of my mill.

If I had an unlimited budget and space, I’d get a small knee mill with glass scales (or one of the larger bench mills available from LMS and PM as a mid-range alternative), but am happy with what I have and pleased with my equipment’s capabilities.

 

[firebird]

Hi
I have the igauge scales on both my milling machines and my lathe set up with blue tooth TouchDro and they work brilliantly. The only problem I had was on one of the milling machines. the scale on the tablet would jump all over the place. I cured it by using a battery instead of the mains power adapter.
Cheers
Rich

 

[user 48634]

Hi
I have the igauge scales on both my milling machines and my lathe set up with blue tooth TouchDro and they work brilliantly. The only problem I had was on one of the milling machines. the scale on the tablet would jump all over the place. I cured it by using a battery instead of the mains power adapter.
Cheers
Rich
I have three of these on my mini-mill and they work flawlessly. I installed them in protective channels with easy access. No problems with contamination after much use.

 

[Steamchick]

My digital depth gauge has a flat battery, and I don't have a spare... so it has reminded me how my vernier and micrometer depth gauges are just as good and have no batteries to run flat!
But I prefer to practice my skills reading manual stuff (e.g. The slide rule for imperial/metric conversions) as it keeps my brain thinking. Also, I was raised in the manual age (pre-electronic measuring) and learnt to mark out parts, watch the cut, and generally interact with the job. Hands on "controls" means hands-off cutting edges! But "each to his own" is my mantra.
Enjoy your digital gauging!
K2

 

[kwoodhands]

My digital depth gauge has a flat battery, and I don't have a spare... so it has reminded me how my vernier and micrometer depth gauges are just as good and have no batteries to run flat!
But I prefer to practice my skills reading manual stuff (e.g. The slide rule for imperial/metric conversions) as it keeps my brain thinking. Also, I was raised in the manual age (pre-electronic measuring) and learnt to mark out parts, watch the cut, and generally interact with the job. Hands on "controls" means hands-off cutting edges! But "each to his own" is my mantra.
Enjoy your digital gauging!
K2

I'm done with digital anything. I liked the convenience when I first tried it. I counted revelutions on the handwheel before I went digital. I will go back to that.
When I emailed Igauge , 3 times , and never got a response I was POed to say the least.
When I get time I will convert a digital caliper to the Z axis on the lathe. The drill press has a working I gauge so far. The older type that takes batteries. Z axis on the mill also has a working Igauge battery type. I removed the new junk scale from the Z axis and put the battery one back.
mike

 

[pete]

I've got quite a bit of Mit digital equipment Steamchick. Battery life in all of them using the recommended SR 44 and NOT LR battery's is a minimum of 3 years up to so far a maximum of almost 5. I was told by a battery specialist that good brand name SR batteries of this type will last just fine in the packaging for at least 5 years. However different metrology manufacturer's do use different internal circuitry that has a direct effect on battery life. The one no name medium priced digital caliper I have for rough work lasts on average maybe 18 months. But that's almost twice what those LR batteries provide in it. Maybe if your not already doing so try those SR's instead and see what you think? Unfortunately they seem to be much harder to find than the LR's and you'll probably pay a bit more. I really wish some manufacturer would make these in a rechargeable version since for me it's impossible to get them locally.

 

[toolingjim]

I've got quite a bit of Mit digital equipment Steamchick. Battery life in all of them using the recommended SR 44 and NOT LR battery's is a minimum of 3 years up to so far a maximum of almost 5. I was told by a battery specialist that good brand name SR batteries of this type will last just fine in the packaging for at least 5 years. However different metrology manufacturer's do use different internal circuitry that has a direct effect on battery life. The one no name medium priced digital caliper I have for rough work lasts on average maybe 18 months. But that's almost twice what those LR batteries provide in it. Maybe if your not already doing so try those SR's instead and see what you think? Unfortunately they seem to be much harder to find than the LR's and you'll probably pay a bit more. I really wish some manufacturer would make these in a rechargeable version since for me it's impossible to get them locally.

A VERY cursory check on google shows that rechargeable button batteries are available, but the availability seems to be skewed heavily toward the larger sizes ( cr2016 and 2032). Dig around. You might get lucky.

toolingjim (Just a guy who likes to build stuff)

 

[Drawfiler]

Beware button batteries are badly effected by frost, so keep them warm!

 

[Steamchick]

Just found a spare battery in a very old pack.... last time I changed from the original to one of my "expired shelf-life" batteries was pre-Covid! And I last used the gauge a month or 2 back. I guess it had turned ON with moving stuff in the draw where it lives?
Thanks for tips, but I like using "proper manual" tools anyway. Somehow, I can see what the measurements mean... not just a number
K2

 

[pete]

Yep I've run a few checks on rechargeable battery's in the size my Mit equipment takes toolingjim, if there made then so far I haven't found any, but thanks for checking. They even make tiny rechargeables for hearing aids and as you found the larger CR's. I dunno, maybe the costs for the SR/LR battery's are just cheap enough there's not enough demand to justify a rechargeable version. To me it isn't the cost, it would be having the convenience of never being without for more than a few hrs at most. No one in the little town I'm in carries the SR's or is even interested in ordering them for me. LR's are easy enough to get, but as I mentioned there lifespan isn't great. At least my Mit calipers are solar powered, so if the light is good enough to see what your doing it's good enough to power them.

 

[RM-MN]

Buy a 10 pack of SR44 and don't wait hours to be able to change. The 10 packs are cheap enough that you can throw half of them away and still be less expensive than the trip to the store to buy them....if the store even has them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/284391327031?hash=item42370b4537:g:ctsAAOSwCsxhBMYM

 

[pete]

That's what I'm doing now. Plus I have enough of their measuring equipment there's always more than a few battery's that can be swapped for anything that does die. In the 21st century and with our current rechargeable technology for almost everything in daily use, even having to do so seems to be a bit archaic. Most of what I have also has SPC ports, I'm no electronics wizard, but those ought to be capable of being powered up while recharging at the same time with a dirt cheap wall wart and some simple circuit redesign. I guess my circumstances and requirements aren't close enough to the average or they would have done so already.

 

[user 48634]

Don't forget that using batteries allows the measuring circuitry to be completely isolated electrically from the machinery. This avoids ground loops and the electrical "noise" that raises cane with sensitive electronic devices like the iGages. Sure, there are ways around this but they are expensive.