IC Hit & Miss engine coolant.

[thegallery]

I have just about completed the build of my 1913 Fairbanks Morse tractor. It has an H&M engine with an external radiator. The cylinder is a wet cast iron sleeve but the coolant jacket is steel. I am concerned about internal rust. What kind of coolant should one use that is an easy cleanup. Any suggestion is appreciated.

 

[danallen]

If you are concerned about rust how about some type of water soluble coolant. Most have rust inhibitors.

 

[deverett]

If you are concerned about rust how about some type of water soluble coolant. Most have rust inhibitors.

I thought that would be the way to go when I built a Scott vacuum engine. I used Fernox (a central heating additive to prevent corrosion) and this is what I ended up with after some time and not draining the engine after a run.

The cylinder is cast iron and the hopper is gunmetal. The engine was stored in it's transit box in the meantime.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

 

[Nerd1000]

Why not regular automotive coolant?

 

[rutzen]

I'd like to know the answer to this as well, I notice my Rumely tractor cylinder barrel is going rusty despite putting Central heating rust inhibitor in the water. Would it be an idea to use some sort of oil as a coolant?

 

[thegallery]

I thought about some kind of oil, mineral or baby oil. Both can catch fire uder certain conditions. How about machine coolant.
I have considered distilled water(it will cause rust). After the run drain and refill wit WD40 for storage.

 

[Makin chips]

The machine shop I work in uses a water soluble coolant in our CNC mill that works very well. When the water evaporates out of the coolant overnight there is a residue left on the cast iron table or the tool steel vise/tooling. An oily film is left and we never have a rust issue. I’ll have to check the name of the product but I’m sure many similar products are available. The ratio of water to coolant is around 85% so it cools very well also.

 

[Makin chips]

This is the product we use. I’m sure you could find the same or something similar in small quantities at MSC or mcmaster. Maybe even a free sample would be enough for a couple engines worth…

 

[propclock]

For what it is worth, don't use ethylene glycol based coolants. I used it on a "closed"
system, a V8 with radiator, but I had a slow drip leak that destroyed the polyurethane clear on the oak base.
It also deeply stained the oak below the clear. It is also poisonous and an open hopper
style engine could result in a loss of a pet. I now use Kool Mist water soluble cutting fluid as
mentioned above.

 

[Steamchick]

How about domestic central heating anti-corrosion added to water in the correct proportions? - (usually around 100:1?). Stops steel radiators from rusting and bi-metallic corrosion from copper pipes versus boiler parts, valve parts and steel radiators - and is good in domestic boilers up to 100deg. C (Unpressurised boiling point). So should be fine for the open hopper system and probably OK even in a 5 or 10 psi pressurised system?
K2

 

[deverett]

How about domestic central heating anti-corrosion added to water in the correct proportions? - (usually around 100:1?). Stops steel radiators from rusting and bi-metallic corrosion from copper pipes versus boiler parts, valve parts and steel radiators - and is good in domestic boilers up to 100deg. C (Unpressurised boiling point). So should be fine for the open hopper system and probably OK even in a 5 or 10 psi pressurised system?
K2

See my reply above

Dave
The Emerald Isle

 

[Steamchick]

Sorry Dave I had missed that bit - coming later to the thread...
K2

 

[Steamchick]

I do flush through all my steam engines after steaming - first with WD40 - then with Motor oil. 30 years ago I worked on the introduction of UK produced Motor Oil for the car manufacturer I worked at. The local company was Texaco, and the chemist (PhD in oil!) explained how Motor oil is one of the highest quality oils for chemical protection of systems with mixed metals and non-metals, temperature and other chemical pollution. Due to its environment and service in a car/truck engine. Lubricity is just 1 of its 101 properties. The chemical package blended with the oil - mostly for anti-corrosion - is a company secret - always. So 6 months of lab and engine testing went on before a specific Texaco oil (Havoline) was approved... Since then I have always used Motor oil for metal protection - after de-watering.
WD40 is supposed to be acidic, so that as well as de-watering, it partially dissolves the rusts and oxides existing on metal surfaces. But this can cause long-term erosion in left as "anti-rust protection" - which is not what it was originally blended to do. But "Duck Oil" is an excellent water displacement and corrosion protective oil.
I would not trust either of these for lubricity - the initial lubrication after long-term storage is expected to be poor for these products, so please re-oil before running.
Never use brake fluid or other hydraulic fluid. - except where designed - in hydraulic systems.
Paraffin/Kerosene does not protect from Rusting. High quality DERV (diesel oil) does, because it contains special additive packages from the oil benders. But "cheap" diesel fuel does not have the anti-corrosive and initial lubricity from additives that exist in regular Branded Pump fuel (even stuff from Supermarket pumps).
Normally I would have recommended high quality coolant from a respected brand of car engine coolant supplier... but that was discounted earlier in this thread.. (Nerd1000 to propclock comments). Just one comment, Glycol added to water varies the freezing point of the coolant - but the Coolant supplier to the factory where I worked advised we install water treatment plant as the local water contained the "wrong minerals" and was likely to develop excessive sediment in the cooling system... - which chemical reactions would shorten the life of the anti-corrosion package they used in their coolant. So it's not Glycol protecting the engines from corrosion, but the additives in expensive coolants...
I don't know anything about machine coolants. Hence I am learning from your experiences.
K2

 

[thegallery]

I just drove into the garage and notice I had a gallon jug of windshield washer setting right in front of me. Will that work as a model engine coolant????

 

[Steamchick]

As Glass is eroded by anything Caustic (Alkali), So windscreen washer fluid is made acidic. - Like wine. Maybe your Grandma used newspaper and vinegar to clean her windows back in her day? - Great stuff. Didn't damage the glass. But washing-up liquid, kitchen cleaner spray, etc. are all caustic and WILL give you a hazy windscreen with prolonged use... The antifreeze in it is Methyl/ethyl alcohol - so don't drink it - you WILL go blind. Sour wine is just as good for windscreen washer fluid! - But the perfume in proper stuff smells less like an alcoholic has had a nasty event all over your car than if you use sour wine.... It will corrode (rust) iron and steel as there is nothing anti-corrosive in it! Please use it in your car's washer bottle... It's better all around that way.

1. you can see things in front of you on the road better,
2. your models won't rust if you use it all in the car and NOT the models...

K2

 

[Andy Munns]

I have seen cars on TV shows use waterless coolants that will not corrode engine internals and have a higher BP than water based products. Perhaps an option? - Not cheap...

 

[kuhncw]

As long as a model hit and miss engine misses several cycles between hits, it probably won't get warm enough to need coolant. I don't use coolant in any of my hit and miss engines.

Chuck