How to limit swarf into the chuck ?

[willray]

(regarding the back cover)

It is just removed during cleaning .
...

Since I believe there is a language barrier getting in our way here, I think we need extra clarity on the parts that are being discussed.

You have removed the backing plate with the spindle mount.

There should also be an internal cover that goes over the scroll and pinions, and that seals the "moving parts" inside rather well against ingress of swarf/chips.

Does your chuck normally have that internal cover plate in place?

Is there some substantial gap between it and the part of the chuck body where we see the stamp "582"?

If that inside-cover plate is present, you should _not_ be getting any substantial amount of crud inside the chuck, unless you are blasting it with high pressure coolant or air, and are machining stuff that makes dust.

I recently opened up a couple 3-jaw scroll chucks that were probably in industrial use for 50+ years and never previously opened, and while they had accumulated a small amount of powder from iron, and there was a bit of detritus just from the decades of wear on the scroll, they were not even close to dirty enough that they needed to be cleaned out.

If you are getting a significant amount of swarf/chips moving from inside the bore of the chuck out into the space with the pinions in home-shop type use, I'm going to say that there is something wrong with how your chuck is assembled.

 

[minh-thanh]

(regarding the back cover)

Since I believe there is a language barrier getting in our way here,

That's a big problem for me .

My chuck

 

[TonyM]

I found a similar problem on my warco/ chinese chuck. I put it down to the clearance between the outside of the scroll plate and the inside of the chuck being too great. Careful cleaning before changing jaws is a must.

 

[ajoeiam]

That's a big problem for me .

My chuck
View attachment 135656

Well - - - - sir - - - you need a back plate on that chuck.

How is the chuck mounted on the lathe?

 

[Mike Ginn]

For what its worth, I always use the same oil I use to lub the lathe bed. If I "feel" that there is swarf in the gears than I dismantle but I note that hasn't happened for over 10 years. I know there is an element of usage here and I do use an air gun all the time and wherever possible free cutting steel/Al and brass. I think grease on the gears is asking for trouble.

 

[Chiptosser]

As stated earlier, there is excess clearance between the the scroll plate and the inside of the chuck body. Fill it up with grease and clean often. Don't blow air into the chuck!

 

[awake]

I don't know if my question is legitimate !?

Your question is absolutely legitimate; your command of English is far better than my command of any other language; and I would regard Mousetrap's comment as troll bait.

 

[Henry K]

On the topic of chucks, why do USA brand chucks (Cushman, Atlas, South Bend Logan, etc.) have only one pinion to tighten the chuck and China made chucks have 3? I would expect China's inexpensive chucks to have one pinion based on cost considerations. I suspect the reason is using the same pinion (USA) would lead to more consistent concentricity for multiple parts of the same diameter but have never seen any discussion on this. Alternately, perhaps the China chucks have their classic soft China cast iron and their engineers wanted to spread the wear out over more pinion surfaces.

 

[awake]

Henry, in my limited experience, the USA brand chucks I have used have 3 pinions. But my sample size is small, so ...

 

[mcostello]

With 3 pinions, You can bias one against the others and reduce the runout of the chuck.

 

[willray]

That's a big problem for me .

Your command of English is, I'm quite certain, infinitely better than my non-existent grasp of your language! The problem at least as much that the other English speakers here aren't being precise in what they're saying...

...
My chuck
...

Ok, you have the inside cover, and unless there's something /very/ wrong, your swarf is not getting in through the "back" of the bore of the chuck.

That leaves the slots for the jaws as the access point.

How large in diameter are the pieces that you're working with?

If they're larger in diameter than the through-hole in your chuck, are you turning your jaws around to the stepped-grip side?

If you don't do that, when you open the jaws up wide, there's a hole directly through the face of the chuck to the front of the scroll. Crap absolutely _will_ go in that way.

 

[minh-thanh]

I found a similar problem on my warco/ chinese chuck. I put it down to the clearance between the outside of the scroll plate and the inside of the chuck being too great. Careful cleaning before changing jaws is a must.

If they're larger in diameter than the through-hole in your chuck, are you turning your jaws around to the stepped-grip side?

If you don't do that, when you open the jaws up wide, there's a hole directly through the face of the chuck to the front of the scroll. Crap absolutely _will_ go in that way.

That is definitely a problem. I'll keep that in mind when I machine
Thank you for comment !
Based on everyone's opinion , I have an idea to limit this from happening, but I'm not sure, I'll try it on an old chuck. I will post the results

your command of English is far better than my command of any other language;

Your command of English is, I'm quite certain, infinitely better than my non-existent grasp of your language!

No no
My English -
3
Google translate ( Because google translate is not 100% accurate )
5
Points :
8 / 10

 

[terryd]

I often put simply a kleenex in the inner hole of the chuck, but it is far from sufficient to prevent chips in the scroll while boring a piece.

Hi,

I use kitchen roll to stuff in the centre hole and it works well in keeping swarf out.

TerryD