A good number of foundry men, wear "safety flipflops".
I am lucky that I do not have to work under conditions like this.
.... self exploitation in the spare time ... a common practice by many of us ( I try to remind myself to treat myself, as I want to be treated by others )
(nothing I do makes any sense )
No intend to blame the workers. I was not trying to point fingers or be malice. Possibly they do not have much of a choice.But at least they make a living with their own hands and support their families within their abilities and circumstances.
Huge difference between trying to make a living and proving stupid !!
Possibly they do not have much of a choice.
Wear spats. The versions made for foundry/welding cover the boot laces.Foundry men wear special shoes, with the tongue designed so there are NO holes penetration that could permit molten metal splashes to get into the boot to hurt flesh. Welders often say they have had foot burns from a bit of molten slag dropping down into a boot. But foundrymens boots avoid that as well.
Not got any. Wish I had...
(Normally don't include all the quoted text but am this time - - - apologies if that offends someone!!)There are a lot of "experts" out there, and the problem is that often times they give incorrect advice, or make false assumptions.
I have debunked many "accepted rules" in metal casting, and have found out that very few people know what they are talking about when it comes to foundry work. I have found many "accepted rules" to be false.
Once a good myth gets started, and spreads across the internet, it is pretty much impossible to convince folks otherwise, even if you can demonstrate it to them.
Several myths I have seen, which have proven to be incorrect in actual use:
1. Crucibles need to be heated slowly to drive off moisture, and so as not to damage the crucible.
If you keep your crucibles in a dry spot, and use a quality crucible like a Morgan Salamander Super, you don't need to heat it slowly.
I turn my burner on at 100% with the fully charged crucible in the furnace.
This is not a problem.
You can ramp up your burner slowly if you desire, but it is not necessary if you are using a qualit crucible and refractory.
2. Never pour metal over concrete.
I and others who have done a lot of iron casting have always poured over concrete, and have spilled significant amounts of molten iron on it.
I got one minor spalding of the concrete, but no explosions. Ditto with my fellow casting guy in Australia, who has poured tons of iron.
What causes explosions with molten metal is water or moisture.
Most folks recommend pouring over sand, but sand will have moisture in it, and a spill on damp sand is likely to cause the explosion you are looking to avoid.
Needless to say, don't pour over wet or damp concrete, such as after a recent rain.
3. Sand is toxic.
Sand is not toxic, but do not inhale the dust from sand, since that can ruin your lungs.
Breathing dust of any kind can damage the lungs, so in general, do not inhale any type of dust or fibers.
4. You can use a combination lifting tong/pouring shank, and avoid having to use two tools.
This may be true with very lightweight pours, but is a very bad idea with heavier metals like brass/bronze and iron.
The combination tong/shank puts you at a huge disadvantage as far as the handle trying to twist out of your hand.
The weight of the crucible and metal at the end of a bend shaft produces a large amount of torque that you have to fight against.
People promote the combination lifting tong/pouring shank because they think it makes them look like they have created a clever gadget (lots of youtube views generated) when in fact this sort of device only works for very light pours.
You have a great deal more pour control (which you absolutely need to control metal velocity) if you use a well balanced pouring shank (not a combo unit).
The centerline of the pouring shank should put the weight of the crucible and metal at a neutral point, so that you are not having to lift weight as you try to pour.
The easiest way to control a pouring shank is to add a handle to the end of it that sticks straight down.
You should not have a pouring shank handle that puts your wrist in a strained position during the pour, since this will make controlling the pour very difficult.
5. If the saleman says a crucible is "iron-rated", then it must be rated for use with iron.
One guy who got into iron casting a few years ago purchased an "iron-rated" crucbible (according to the salesman), and once it reached molten iron temperature, it folded up like a wet waffle in a very dangerous way, spilling the entire molten iron contents into the furnace interior.
Your safety depends on you using a good quality crucible that is rated for the metal you are using, and also rated for the temperatures that the crucible will be exposed to.
A Morgan Salamander Super is "ferrous-metal-rated", and rated for 2,900 F, which is more than adequate for iron work.
Morgan's silicon carbide crucibles (be careful, some of them also have the word "Salamader" in them) are not ferrous-metal-rated, and thus are not rated to be used with iron. Silicon carbide crucibles generally have a much lower maximum operating temperature rating than their clay-graphite Salamander-Super crucibles.
Anything that is used in or around molten metal must be preheated to drive off moisture.
This is not a myth, but an absolute truth that should never be neglected.
Any scrap metal that is going to be used must be held in the furnace exhast stream for at least 30 seconds minimum, to drive off residual moisture.
You cannot see residual moisture on the surface of metal, but trust me, it is there.
You need to also preheat lifting tongs, charging tongs, stiring rods, skimmers, and anything else that will come in contact with molten metal, or come in contact with a red hot crucible.
You should never drop a crushed aluminum can into a crucible of molten aluminum, since a crushed aluminum can can easily trap moisture.
I have seen numerous metal exposions when people pour into sand molds that have excessive moisture in them.
Cores should be baked or lightly flamed with a propane torch to drive off moisture.
I lightly flame my resin-bound molds, also to drive off moisture, and to burn off any uncured resin.
There has been a lot of discussion about not shocking a crucible with a sudden temperature change, and this is true.
Turning on the burner at 100% when starting the furnace does not really shock the crucible or the furnace, since the furnace and crucible mass are significant, and it will take time to begin to heat them.
Sudden temperature changes can cause micro (or large) cracks in the crucible.
I put the crucible back in the furnace after a pour, and close the lid, to let the furance and crucible cool down slowly.
If you are using lightweight refractory such as insulating fire bricks, you may want to baby those, since they don't take abuse well at all, compared to a dense refractory like Mizzou which will take a lot of abuse and will also stand up to repeated iron slag splatters.