How a rookie makes a flywheel

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13AL

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I came up with this idea because I don't have a mill...yet! I actually chose the engine to build after I designed the flywheels (engine not done yet). The basic demensions are .495 thick, 2.325 dia. 0.20 rim, and a 0.725 hub, the spokes are 0.150. I started with a puck and removed all but 0.075 which leaves the rim and hub as one piece.
000_42212.jpg

I then used the three jaw chuck to mark where the spokes will go and the drilled and taped on a drill press.
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The spokes are turned from 12-32 brass screws and a little thread lock is used.
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Then the left-over 0.075 is removed from the back and a little detail added to the hub, done! and wow do they spin true! I am sure using pressed in spokes would work just as well.
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13AL
 
Nicely done! Ingenuity triumphs over absence of tool.

Another very similar approach is to check your local scrapyard for larger diameter steel pipe cutoffs. Thick-walled aluminum irrigation pipe works well too. Turn up a hub and use your technique for inserting spokes.
 
Hey, I like the way those turned out. Great job.
 
Great job there Al.

Now everyone can make stylish flywheels.

John
 
Beautiful!

That is making what you want with what you've got.
Thanks for sharing the idea!

Rick
 
Way to go 13AL!! Very close to the way I made the 10 spoke flywheel for my Elbow engine. The other trick is to machine a press fit rim to slip over the outer ring, hiding the ends of the spokes. You'd have everyone guessing just how did you got those spokes in there..LOL Next time I'll have to try it your way for keeping things centered.

Steve
 
Thats a great stroke of genius to leave the center section in until the spokes are assembled! Looks darn nice too. You guys are an inspiration!
 
That's a great way to make a flywheel. I did it that way once about 20 years ago and forgot about that.

Another thing you can do, is follow your process, but instead of threaded spokes, use plain steel rod, maybe .001 too long, and press a snug fitting steel ring, that's a little wider than the flywheel rim, over the outside to hold the spokes in place and add weight to the perimeter of the flywheel.
 
I have heard it said the the newbie often comes up with some of the most creative ideas. Nice work. I like the contrast between the brass and aluminum . Thanks for sharing.
Tin
 
Very nice approach. Thanks for the photos and details.

Cheers,
Phil
 
Nice looking flywheels you've made there:eek:) Thanks for sharing. I'll have to try that someday:eek:)

Wes
 
I'll be damned! Really slick.

The closest I've seen to that was when a guy made carriage wheels for a french cannon. They were about 6" in diameter. Taper pins were fitted for spokes and a steel rim shrunk on (tire) .
Ray
 
This goes to show that sometimes the most complex problem has the simplest answer!

Very ingenious solution. And there is another lesson here as has been stated by the others; never discount one's idea based on the level of experience they have, often they aren't blinded by the problem!
 
And there is another lesson here as has been stated by the others; never discount one's idea based on the level of experience they have, often they aren't blinded by the problem!

Truer words have never been spoken.

People with a lot of experience always seem to go down the most difficult route, and could kick themselves for doing it.

John
 
Really nice and simple solution... :bow:
Paolo
 
Thanks all for the great comments!
I do agree that a "tire" would finish these nicely, a band of brass would really look hot and also add some mass, the flywheels weigh 1.5oz or 43g each, I just weighed them as I am typing, they are light, I will see how the engine runs before modifying them.
The next flywheel I build like this I will try a little taper to the spokes.
Every once in a while a rookie gets lucky :D

Kurt
 
Anyone know why the pics aren't showing up on my Safari browser or the App on this post?


Sent from my iPad using Model Engines
 
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