Hardware Questions

[Dalee]

Hi,

I'm getting interested in building some model engines. But the small screws and bolts are mail order only for me. So I would like some recommendations for where you buy the screws, nuts, taps, and dies you use. Oh, and preferred sizes also.

So far, the only place I've found is Albany Fasteners on eBay to stock small enough screws. But stainless steel socket head or Philips head screws may not always be so period appropriate.

I will be setting out to build a Paddleducks engine to start. I really like the looks of it.

Thanks!
Dale

 

[Cogsy]

It depends on whether you build in metric or imperial and what part of the globe you're located in as well. I'm in Australia and I can buy Philips head metric fasteners down to 3mm at the local hardware stores. Imperial or small socket head I can get from a local fastener supplier (although the tiny imperial sizes like 2-56 are priced like they're made of gold). I have bought from eBay and also SDP-SI in the US was quite reasonable for imperial sizes.

I have a cheap ~$40 eBay tap and die set for the small imperial sizes and it works remarkably well. I've used taps and dies down to 0-80 with success, even on drill rod. However, having used a good brand-name metric tap set recently, I am hoping to slowly replace all my cheap taps with quality ones as I can afford them - the difference is amazing.

 

[bazmak]

I always used BA but taps and dies expensive and as you say screws are mail order.I finally changed to metric.HS cap,grub,csk and button head are available down to M2 and cover most things.I rarely use hex hds as you have to get reduced hd size for scale.I found m3 will replace 7ba and m4 is ok for 5ba.It depends what you are making.With a model loco i still used hx hd ba but for general models HS are great and they make my miniature spanners redundant

 

[Blogwitch]

Dale,
It all depends where you live, if you modify your details it will show people where you live and they will be better prepared to point you in the right direction for what you want.

If it was me, before trying to build my designed Paddleducks engine, I would get a little experience on a wobbler or two to get you into the 'machining mode'.
BTW, all fasteners on the Paddleduck engine are metric, but you could substitute other thread types if you have the experience of converting. What I do is buy in bulk say 3mm screws, but at say 25mm long, then just cut them down to whatever length I need. The offcuts are saved and used as studs elsewhere. It works out slightly cheaper than buying the correct screws and studs separately, plus you don't have to store lots of different lengths.

When eventually you get to your build of the Paddleducks, any problems just email or PM me. On average, I have two or three people a year contact me about help for their build, and they even send me their engines for me to sort out for them, usually it is just a small mistake that they have made in the build, or maybe a little bit of bad machining.


John

 

[kvom]

I buy scale model screws and nuts from American Model Engineering: http://www.americanmodeleng.com/

I built John's Paddleducks engine in 1.5x using imperial measurements and fasteners. Did dimension conversion and chose the nearest fastener size that would work.

It was my second engine build, and really not that difficult from a machining standpoint, and the "crap-o-cad" manual is very well done. Getting it running can be fiddly.

My build thread is here: http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=4264

 

[portlandron]

If you want hardware that is scaled for model engines you can't do any better then American Model Engineering.

I spent a lot of time checking prices and ended up ordering from them. They are great people to deal with and my order was shipped fast.

 

[Dalee]

Dale,
It all depends where you live, if you modify your details it will show people where you live and they will be better prepared to point you in the right direction for what you want.

If it was me, before trying to build my designed Paddleducks engine, I would get a little experience on a wobbler or two to get you into the 'machining mode'.
BTW, all fasteners on the Paddleduck engine are metric, but you could substitute other thread types if you have the experience of converting. What I do is buy in bulk say 3mm screws, but at say 25mm long, then just cut them down to whatever length I need. The offcuts are saved and used as studs elsewhere. It works out slightly cheaper than buying the correct screws and studs separately, plus you don't have to store lots of different lengths.

When eventually you get to your build of the Paddleducks, any problems just email or PM me. On average, I have two or three people a year contact me about help for their build, and they even send me their engines for me to sort out for them, usually it is just a small mistake that they have made in the build, or maybe a little bit of bad machining.


John

Hi,

I updated my location, should have been smarter to do that in the first place.

I'm not too worried about the machining, been a tool and die maker for nearly 30 years. I can hit the numbers. Though I have built a wobbler and plan to make a few more, I've become fascinated with your engine. It looks good and I like your design and build story.

What I need to learn is how to think like a model engineer. A much more difficult endeavor. And there is so much to learn about and master. From simple things like where to buy screws to terminology, to understanding how all the parts work together. It should be a fun journey. And expect a question or two as I go about this.

Thanks KVOM, that's what I will need. A nice selection of taps, dies, and screws. I have read your build log on the Paddleducks. And I will be re-reading it several more times as I proceed with mine.

Thanks!!!
Dale

 

[Philipintexas]

I've used COLES Power Models for correct looking fasteners. I don't know how they are now but they used to have a good selection.

 

[kvom]

For a model's construction period I use socket head screws, and then replace them with model screws and nuts once a model is running. I get most of these online via Enco. I tend to stick to 2-56, 5-40, 8-32, and 10-32 as much as possible. Other than 2-56, I buy boxes of 3 different sizes (typically 1/4, 1/2, 3/4) as my "stock". 2-56 screws I buy 1" long and just cut to size.

 

[BobsModels]

American Model Enginering is great, excellent service.

Another place you need to use is McMaster Carr

http://www.mcmaster.com/

They have lots of stuff that modelers use besides screws, just spend some time looking it is a great source. Just an example set screws with brass tips. About the only downside is you need to buy some stuff in quantity. Buy the 100 pack it will disappear.

Bob