Hardinge HLV-H Restoring

Discussion in 'Machine Modifications' started by yankov@rggroup.info, Apr 13, 2011.

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  1. Apr 13, 2011 #1

    yankov@rggroup.info

    yankov@rggroup.info

    yankov@rggroup.info

    Engine Man

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    Hello, firs I want to apologies to every one reading this post, for eventual mistakes in my english, as it is not my native language.
    I am about to start Hardinge HLV-H restoring. I decided to post my progress for few reasons. First Hardinge is probably the best lathe to bay as second hand machine, second these lathes are becoming more and more available to model engineers. Unfortunately machines that apear on second hand market are 20-30 year old. Some of them are in great tolerance holding condition but cosmetically look very bad. My harding is produced around 1980 and holds near factory cutting tolerances. Here is the machine in all it`s glory.



    #77136 Hardinge.JPG

    Hardinge 1.JPG

    IMG_6931.JPG
     
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  2. Apr 13, 2011 #2

    maverick

    maverick

    maverick

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    Welcome to the forum Yankov. You are lucky to have such a nice lathe to restore. I had the pleasure of running a
    brand new HLV-H about 20 years ago. They are sweet and I will follow this rebuild with much interest.
    Don't worry about your english as my knowledge of any other language is non existent.
     
  3. Apr 14, 2011 #3

    yankov@rggroup.info

    yankov@rggroup.info

    yankov@rggroup.info

    Engine Man

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    First to go under the knife is the tail stock. As it can be seen from pictures it is in a bad shape, at some places paint is missing to the point where bare metal shows. This condition is probably because of a very aggressive cutting fluid.

    DSC01920.jpg

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  4. Apr 14, 2011 #4

    krv3000

    krv3000

    krv3000

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    HI I served my time with them lathes screw cutting on them was a dream can't Waite to see it back OT all its Glory
     
  5. Apr 14, 2011 #5

    yankov@rggroup.info

    yankov@rggroup.info

    yankov@rggroup.info

    Engine Man

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    Plan for the tail stock is as follows:
    1. Strip the paint to the point where only filler and primer are left. It is possible to strip also the filler to bare metal but this is not really necessary as filler is very firmly attached to the metal. Stripping is done with ABT paint remover, expensive stuff, but it dose the job perfectly. I made some experiments, to figure out how long striper should stay applied to dissolve only the paint, 2-3 minutes is the answer. After this I jut wipe it with a clean towel and wash it with water. I did not take any pictures of this process as I forgot the camera. My bad.
    2. Fill all the nik`s and dings whit polyester filler. This stuff is used on car body repair. It sands very easy with 120-200 sand paper.

    IMG1.jpg

    IMG2.jpg

    IMG3.jpg

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  6. Apr 14, 2011 #6

    yankov@rggroup.info

    yankov@rggroup.info

    yankov@rggroup.info

    Engine Man

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    Hi, I changed my name from Yankov to engine man.
    Just for information
     
  7. Apr 14, 2011 #7

    BillTodd

    BillTodd

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    BTDT :) Mine's 50 years old this year.

    (http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/showthread.php/566-Renovating-a-Hardinge-HLV-H)

    They are a fabulous lathe both in looks and performance; well worth all the work.

    One warning: careful with the paint stripper: in can soak into the cast iron and then leach out later, ruining the new paint. Clean it off carefully after use.

    Looking forward to seeing the work progress so keep posting the photos.

    Regards,

    Bill
     
  8. Apr 14, 2011 #8

    yankov@rggroup.info

    yankov@rggroup.info

    yankov@rggroup.info

    Engine Man

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    Thank you for the advice. Paint stripper that i am using is water base
    So i just washed it. So far no problem whit it.
     
  9. Apr 14, 2011 #9

    rleete

    rleete

    rleete

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    I worked for Hardinge many years ago. Nice to see these old beasts restored.
     
  10. Apr 14, 2011 #10

    yankov@rggroup.info

    yankov@rggroup.info

    yankov@rggroup.info

    Engine Man

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    Thank you all for your support. I don't know how long this project is going to take but I am determined to finish it.
    BillTodd you did outstanding job with your machine. I hope you will provide me with some advice on difficult points during this rebuild.
    Now third thing that I managed to do on the tail stock: I sprayed on some epoxy filler made by the company named SELEMIX. Here are the pictures. One picture worth a thousand words!

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  11. Apr 14, 2011 #11

    yankov@rggroup.info

    yankov@rggroup.info

    yankov@rggroup.info

    Engine Man

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    I have to wait 6-8 hours for the epoxy filler to set. So I hope tomorrow to spray on some epoxy primer on top. This two coats will give the desire strength that is needed for such a job. I will post some more pictures after I am done.
     
  12. Apr 14, 2011 #12

    Allthumbz

    Allthumbz

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    Beautiful job on the restoration and finish, Engine Man. You will get a lot of good service out of that machine. Enjoy it!

    Nelson
    ***************.com
     
  13. Apr 14, 2011 #13

    b.lindsey

    b.lindsey

    b.lindsey

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    That is going to look like it just came from the factory Engine man. Nice job so far!!!

    Bill
     
  14. Apr 15, 2011 #14

    yankov@rggroup.info

    yankov@rggroup.info

    yankov@rggroup.info

    Engine Man

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    Here is the wheel polished and painted. There is a lot off glare due to oil applied.

    IMG6.jpg

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  15. Apr 15, 2011 #15

    Twmaster

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    That is going to look like it just came from the factory Engine man. Nice job so far!!!

    My wager is it will look better than new!

    Nice machine. I'll be following this thread.
     
  16. Apr 15, 2011 #16

    yankov@rggroup.info

    yankov@rggroup.info

    yankov@rggroup.info

    Engine Man

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    Just finished priming the tail stock. I think finish is OK ;D

    IMG_0457.JPG

    IMG_0451.JPG

    IMG_0451.JPG

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  17. Apr 15, 2011 #17

    yankov@rggroup.info

    yankov@rggroup.info

    yankov@rggroup.info

    Engine Man

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    Tomorrow I will spray paint some samples. Unfortunately I can not get the original Hardinge Gray 7B color. After much research around the internet the closest color match that I figure out is BS4800 18B25 Dark Admiralty Grey, another possibility is BS4800 18B21 Squirrel Grey which is not as dark as the first one. If any one reading this post can sugest some RAL equivalent to Hardinge Gray 7B please post it.
     
  18. May 7, 2011 #18

    yankov@rggroup.info

    yankov@rggroup.info

    yankov@rggroup.info

    Engine Man

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    Long time no post, my bad. I took very long to determine the color that matches closely the original one.
    Finally with a little help of friend of mine I figure out the color is some where between 18B25 and 18B21. If some one is interested with exact recipe I can provide it. Paint is Selemix two component for industrial machinery, gloss grade, oil and mar resistant.

    Sorry for the lousy photos took them with phone camera.


    IMG_0485.JPG

    IMG_0486.JPG
     
  19. May 13, 2011 #19

    Allthumbz

    Allthumbz

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    Your finish is excellent- looks factory new to me. Great work.

    Nelson
    ***************.com
     
  20. May 14, 2011 #20

    steamer

    steamer

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    Looks good from here!

    Keep em coming!

    Dave
     

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