Harbor Freight rotary table

Discussion in 'Tools' started by Chris333, Feb 18, 2010.

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  1. Feb 18, 2010 #1

    Chris333

    Chris333

    Chris333

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  2. Feb 19, 2010 #2

    rake60

    rake60

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  3. Feb 19, 2010 #3

    mark p

    mark p

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    it depends on what you expect to do
    the clamps are weaker than the bag they come in,
    the table turns smooth with little axial backlash and is accuratly marked,
    however the lock is worthless and will let the table lift a bit if a cutter is pulling up on the work

    save and get the sherline
    (or by this like I did, waste $$ and time and THEN get the sherline)
     
  4. Feb 19, 2010 #4

    radfordc

    radfordc

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    I bought the HF table when they were giving a 20% discount. I've used it on a couple of projects and it's done what I needed it to do. The size of the table limits its usefulness. I was able to mount a 3" three jaw chuck but it took some work. I machined a hole in the center of the table and made and adapter that fit the hole and the back of the chuck. This centered the chuck on the table. I made some special clamps to clamp the chuck to the table. Because the chuck was the same diameter as the table these clamps had to hang off the edge of the table. Also had to mill slots in the chuck for the clamps.

    Charlie

    IMG_0286.jpg
     
  5. Feb 19, 2010 #5

    radfordc

    radfordc

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    Here is the adapter that centers the chuck on the table.

    IMG_0288.jpg

    IMG_0291.jpg
     
  6. Feb 19, 2010 #6

    SAM in LA

    SAM in LA

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    Chris,

    Remember that you get what you pay for.

    My lathe/mill came with a couple of Rotary tables, both are either from india or china.

    They are of unknown age, so I took them apart, cleaned and lubricated.

    They work ok, note I didn't say OK.

    They have rough spots in the gears and enough backlash to be a nuisance.

    You can work around the problems, but you need to stay on top of it.

    Slowly I'm repairing my machine and tooling so that I will be able to attempt building some engines.

    Remember, you get what you pay for.

    SAM
     
  7. Feb 19, 2010 #7

    Diy89

    Diy89

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    I also have this table. It is way small. I agree the clamps are little more than duct tape. Its fun to play with, but clamping stuff is a pain. I also had to mill some flats in the casting to get it to clamp flat to the table.
    Lock is terrible. Gears are better than expected. Backlash i have delt with for what little i have used it.
     
  8. Feb 19, 2010 #8

    Dale

    Dale

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    Chris, I bought the same rt and found that for the money and knowing its limitations, it does its job just fine . its made for small light jobs, so i wouldn't make large heavy cuts on it you'll surly be disappointed, but small light cuts its fine.
     
  9. Feb 19, 2010 #9

    Chris333

    Chris333

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    Right off the bat I need it to round the cylinder housing for a Huff-n-Puff engine. (small) And I would like to build a rotary valve so I will need it for that.

    After that I have no idea what I would use it for. I don't mind taking it apart and fixing it as long as it can be fixed. I have HF's X1 micro mill and that was also taken apart soon as I got it.

    If I don't buy the table I will try over and over to use a rod as a handle to rotate the work around a lathed post in a vise. (tried it once already and bent the post once the tool bit in)
     
  10. Dec 24, 2012 #10

    CoolCanuck

    CoolCanuck

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    Anyone know how to take these little suckers apart?
    My rotating table is a bit seized up and I need to free it.
    Seems like it would be a press fit, but I'm not too sure.

    I can remove the bottom screw & washer, but can't seem to remove the rotating table, even with the handle etc. removed.
    The tightness is definitely in between the base & table. the handle assy is pretty loose, but no huge play.

    I know this is a small unit, but this is what I need. Actually, it's even a tad on the large side for what I need to do.
    Thx
     
  11. Dec 24, 2012 #11

    Herbiev

    Herbiev

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    Coolcanuck please post an introduction in the welcome section as per the rules
     
  12. Dec 24, 2012 #12

    Tin Falcon

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    Hmm look for retaining rings. I have had mine apart a couple times but mine is from Kits industrial not HF. I would soak it down with triflow or some other good penetrating lubricant. if it does not come apart it will still be well lubed. unfortunately rough edges and burs are the norm on the cheap ones. but then that is why we take them apart in the first place.
    Tin
     
  13. Dec 25, 2012 #13

    CoolCanuck

    CoolCanuck

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  14. Dec 25, 2012 #14

    dalem9

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    Do not try to pry it apart . their are two locking bolts inside that have to be lined up some how . I do not remember just how ,but they are their.Study it carefully and you will be able to figure it out . Dale
     
  15. Dec 25, 2012 #15

    sssfox

    sssfox

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    There are no locking bolts in the Grizzly model table. There is a ball bearing that is pressed onto the table shaft. On mine, it isn't a tight fit and is easily removed with slight pressure. It isn't easy to hold the casting while pressing on the table shaft, but it is fairly easy to remove, once you remove the worm gear.

    The screw in the bottom is used to adjust the spacing between the edge of the table and the casting. I tighten it until it barely moves, back off the screw about 1/8 turn and smack it with a brass hammer.

    I have a 3" and a 4" and they work exactly the same, but the 3" is slightly tighter.

    One note, there is a slight bit of space between the side of the table and the base casting, so if you plan on using the locking screw, center the table with the screw tight. It can make a thousandths or two difference.

    Steve Fox
     
  16. Dec 25, 2012 #16

    CoolCanuck

    CoolCanuck

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    Thanks guys. Looks like mine is quite a bit tighter on the bearing.
    Setscrew & washer were easy to remove, just like the handle/worm gear assembly. Guess I'll have to find myself a press or heat one side up a bit.

    Thanks.
     
  17. Dec 26, 2012 #17

    gus

    gus

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    Hi Chris,

    You could DIY your own RT based on your own specs.
    Need one RT very badly.Buy from LMS and landed in Singapore will kill me.
    Buying one from local shops cost US$300 w/o chuck.
    Here's my 4" RT with used chuck. The worm and wheel are from KG Gears Japan and cost US$40. Total time taken to build one week with no drawings.Just tailor fit. Back lash was minimum.The worm fitted with thrust bearings for smooth cranking. RT now show piece after turning quite a few parts.

    IMG_0476.jpg
     
    johnmcc69 likes this.
  18. Mar 2, 2013 #18

    cheepo45

    cheepo45

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    I have a Harbor Freight 3" rotary table. I like that it fits in my mill vise for quick rounding of linkage ends etc. I machined the center hole to .475 so it would be concentric with its axis and so I could make center plugs in various sizes for quick setups. It's not real rigid and the lock moves it .005, but it was about 45.00 with the coupon. I wouldn't recommend it for precision work,but for a quick radius it works fine.
    cheepo45
     
  19. Dec 25, 2013 #19

    motoseeya

    motoseeya

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    HF dose not sell these any more I have one and went back to get one more
    they said they don't sell them any more to bad the one I have dose a great job for it's size I took mine and put a 1" by 91/4" table on it to have more room.:rolleyes:
     

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