Grinding wheel ID

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maverick

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A 2 part question here. I have a dozen or so of these wheels and I think they fit a
Gorton cutter grinder, does anyone know for sure? The size is OD 4", width 1 1/4' hole 7/16
raised face 1/2'.

wheel2c.jpg

By mikeatmaverick at 2012-04-19

wheel1q.jpg

By mikeatmaverick at 2012-04-19

2nd question, does anyone want them for the cost of shipping? They appear to be unused and in
good shape and I'd like to find a good home for them.

Maverick



 
I got 2 of these wheels from Maverick. I hoped to mount them on my Black and Decker bench grinder. The B&D has 1/2" arbors. Can I bore/ream the center sleeve of the wheels to 1/2"? Or should I build a new arbor with pillow blocks and thread the ends 7/16"?
If I make a new arbor, where can I get washers for the wheels?
I have seen shaft arbors that mount to motor shafts, but haven't found one with 7/16 dia. thread.

Chuck
 
Chuck,

When the wheels are made, they usually have extra bonding resin where the hole is, this is to give it strength in that area. You may notice in the bore that it is very smooth with no grit showing.

You should not, under any circumstances, try to bore it out, you would be weakening the structure of the wheel and it might explode when you come to use it.

You can sleeve to make the holes smaller, which I do with most of my surface grinder wheels, but do not make them larger.

You can make your own holding washers, and they only need to be about 1/8" thick and about 1.5" to 2" diameter for that size of wheel, but do make sure you have softish paper labels between the washers and wheels, that takes up any irregularities between the rough wheel and smooth washers. Do not overtighten, and make sure you have the correct rotation on the thread (either left or right hand) to make sure the nut doesn't come loose when you turn on.

I don't have my charts available at this time, the codes written on the labels on the wheels tell you all you need to know about type of bond and grit, and of course, the max speed of the wheel.


John

Mounting wheel.jpg
 
Maverick

That is about correct for my Gorton Cutter Grinder.

Dave

 
That should be fine to bore then.

But two major points.

Only a minute of pressure on the wheel whilst boring, otherwise you risk internal fracture and really serious consequences.

They have to be bored truly concentric otherwise you may as well throw them away as you can't dress correctly all the sides to get them true running again.

Personally, I would only try to do it because I use soft jaws which give a good grip with very little pressure and they are bored to give true concentricity.

It might seem to be being over cautious, but grinding wheels are the easiest thing in the workshop to become lethal. Even just dropping them onto the bench from a small height can cause internal damage that can't be seen, or even heard if a ring test is done. They have to be treated like eggshells.


John
 
Thanks again, John. Safety is paramount. I think my best bet would be to make a new belt driven arbor. I have a 1/2" arbor shaft for buffing wheels, wire wheel, etc. I can make another one with 7/16" threaded ends to fit the same pillow blocks or just make a new one all together. As I want to use the wheels for grinding lathe tool bits, I think a separate set up would be better.
I'll pick up a nother pair of 1/2" ball bearing pillow blocks and build a new setup. Now, that's going to involve turning left hand threads, a new experience for me!

Chuck
 

Chuck,
I have several more wheels on hand and am willing to open up the hole and determine how much metal is there
to work with. I believe if there is any question as to safety, take the safe route. There are also several more sizes
of wheels in the lot that are available for the taking. I'll post a list sometime soon.

Regards,
Maverick
 

its a shame your not in the UK

i could have used a couple of those off you

never mind :(




 
I just sent a PM. I would be interested in a couple.

Mike O
 
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