Fuel poof lacquer or varnish recommendations?

[Richard P]

Hi there

I am n the final stages of completing an ETW Kiwi Mk2 and a planning how to mount it on a wooden base. It won’t be run that often but I do want to be able to run the engine as and when without petrol or oil staining or attacking the finish on the wood. Does anyone have good recommendations for products that can be used on wood that are strongly fuel proof and easy to clean?

I’m based in the UK, so products easily available here would be preferable.

Many thanks in advance

Richard

 

[ZebDog]

Hi Richard
I use yacht varnish on my Engine wood base I give it 3 or 4 coats with a light sanding and 24 hours between eash coast I used it on my Webster 11 years ago and it's still good today. The first pic was when I first made the engine and the second I took a few mins ago.

 

[SmithDoor]

Hi there

I am n the final stages of completing an ETW Kiwi Mk2 and a planning how to mount it on a wooden base. It won’t be run that often but I do want to be able to run the engine as and when without petrol or oil staining or attacking the finish on the wood. Does anyone have good recommendations for products that can be used on wood that are strongly fuel proof and easy to clean?

I’m based in the UK, so products easily available here would be preferable.

Many thanks in advance

Richard

I have used automobile paint too.
It comes in spray cans to.

Dave

 

[minh-thanh]

I have used automobile paint too.
It comes in spray cans to.

Dave

But it takes away the beauty of the wood.

 

[SmithDoor]

But it takes away the beauty of the wood.

They do make clear in automotive paint too.

Dave

 

[TonyM]

I second Yacht varnish. Alternatively you could use modellers fuel proof dope.

 

[Peter Twissell]

For my model aircraft, I use clear Epoxycote.

 

[Jasonb]

On all my IC engines I give the car spray painted metal a coat of clear fuel proof lacquer, you can use that on the wood too. Halfords do one in gloss and you can easily find satin or matt on the net.

This is the one I use
https://www.arc-rite.co.uk/proxl-cr...sistant-satin-lacquer-400ml-bulk-savings-56-p

 

[minh-thanh]

They do make clear in automotive paint too.

Dave

I forgot it .
And it is also quite good to protect the brass surface...

 

[Harglo]

Hello
Just some suggestions on a wood base for your engine. Walnut with hard Maple contrast.
Harvey

 

[dsage]

Your basic Urethane from a can applied with a brush or thinned and sprayed works fine..
You probably have some around already. Give it a try.
Let it dry for a lengthy time (like a few weeks) before exposing it to fuel.
That said I use Naptha as fuel not gasoline. But oil doesn't bother it either.

BTW. Urethane is the basis for many car paints these days and it doesn't hurt to spill gas on your car paint.

 

[Ratshooter]

Hello
Just some suggestions on a wood base for your engine. Walnut with hard Maple contrast.
Harvey

Those are great looking engines, and bases.

 

[elcid]

Have a read
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/polyurethane-chemical-resistance-d_1878.html

 

[Bentwings]

Hi there

I am n the final stages of completing an ETW Kiwi Mk2 and a planning how to mount it on a wooden base. It won’t be run that often but I do want to be able to run the engine as and when without petrol or oil staining or attacking the finish on the wood. Does anyone have good recommendations for products that can be used on wood that are strongly fuel proof and easy to clean?

I’m based in the UK, so products easily available here would be preferable.

Many thanks in advance
I’m goingvto build my display and run base out of laminated oak then clear casting resin epoxy . You see this in heavy use bars and restraints on tables. I looks like glass . Being an epoxy not much stains it it can get scratched but it usually can be buffed out gas and oil don’t touch it . I used clearcresin inside my Rc airplanes for a long time even engine heat doesn’t bother it unless direct contact with gas exhaust pips not much sticks to it unless roughed up
Byron
Richard

 

[elcid]

Years ago my mother asked me if I could 'paint her mahogany coffee table with something that would protect it from her grandchildren marking it with their toys, the painter in the boatyard where I worked asked me to bring it in and gave it a coat of International two-part polyurethane yacht varnish.
it looked as if it had a sheet of glass on top and boy was it tough stuff. The boat yard was Silvers Marine on the Gareloch, Scotland, one of the last yards to build double diagonal planked motor cruisers with the odd 70ft sailing yacht thrown in for fun, the last one I worked on was the Silver Trident 120ft long. the yachts were hand painted by Larry Green and his assistant, happy memories working in a yard that had not changed in the way it built boats for nearly a century. Sadly time caught up with the yard, GPS and steel boats became so much cheaper and faster to build.

 

[Chris Murphy]

Two part polyurethane yacht paints are the bees knees when it comes to being fuel resistant-I have model fuselages painted with International paints'reaction lacquer' that have lasted 40 years on 30% nitromethane glow engine fuels without any noticeable damage....the only downside-apart from cost-from a model aircraft perspective-was the weight-the stuff is heavy! I would certainly endorse using a clearcoat type two-part polyurethane finish for your engine mount...it will be proof against anything you can throw at it, fuel wise, for many years...

 

[Richard P]

Lots of great input there, so thanks very much from everyone.

And also some great pictures of finished engines and display bases for me to aspire to!

Thanks again!

Richard.