flywheel stl files

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coulsea

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3d printers are great for making patterns but files seem to be hard to find, so I thought that I should share mine.
IMG_2325.JPG

The smaller flywheel is from the 140 mm pattern scaled to 0.65 in the slicer program.
The larger one is a 90 mm pattern at full scale, the blue patterns are lumps to provide hot metal to the flywheel as it cools and shrinks, I feed into one and vent from the other. I am using aluminium bronze which seems to shrink a lot. the blob can be used as a two part pattern to give twice the volume but in this case I am only using it in the top half of the flask. If I use the blobs opposite sides of the pattern the center hub shrinks, the placement in the picture works.
The 90 mm pattern has a larger center hub so I can use a taper lock.
The patterns have draft, slightly tapered spokes in both directions and fillets and work quite well, I give them a couple of coats of spray putty to smooth them and the gloss paint on the red one worked really well.

Enjoy
Andrew
 

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James Barker

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Well done! I had begun doing this very thing and have not made too much progress, so you have done the heavy lifting for me. Thank-You!

BC1
Jim
 

Charles Lamont

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Great work, but why use aluminium bronze? By all accounts it is horrible stuff to machine (I don't think I have tried it), while I suppose these flywheels are going neither to run in sea water, nor to run at some huge speed.
 

coulsea

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Great work, but why use aluminium bronze? By all accounts it is horrible stuff to machine (I don't think I have tried it), while I suppose these flywheels are going neither to run in sea water, nor to run at some huge speed.
I am assuming that it is aluminium bronze, it comes from wear plates on a caterpillar grader.
It machines OK providing you cut with a sharp tool, it casts well with no porosity and it looks good.
Best of all it is free.
 

timo_gross

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3d printers are great for making patterns but files seem to be hard to find, so I thought that I should share mine.
...

Enjoy
Andrew
Thank you,

not needing a fly wheel now, but still downloaded one file, never know! :)
Did someone try to print in PLA with a very low infill and leave the printed piece in the mold?
Like a "lost wax" or "lost foam" casting.
It would waste the plastic part, but maybe make the molding easier?
Then you could use the bronze for casting ship propellers, with very complicated shape. :)

Greetings Timo
 

ajoeiam

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Great work, but why use aluminium bronze? By all accounts it is horrible stuff to machine (I don't think I have tried it), while I suppose these flywheels are going neither to run in sea water, nor to run at some huge speed.
Aluminum bronze isn't that difficult to work with - - - - - compared to Monel its a piece of cake!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Zeb

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Very nice! I love the finish on machined bronze too. I'll have to look into making some flywheel models.
 

SmithDoor

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The shink for brass is about 5/32" to foot for most castings. A good pattern maker can eye the right shink.
Some shink can control with gating too.

Last I look Starret still makes shink rules. I do most my shink on drawings so use Micrometers on lathe. If hand craving making I use shink rules.

But goods in hobby work if miss the size just change your drawings.

Dave

3d printers are great for making patterns but files seem to be hard to find, so I thought that I should share mine.
View attachment 126663
The smaller flywheel is from the 140 mm pattern scaled to 0.65 in the slicer program.
The larger one is a 90 mm pattern at full scale, the blue patterns are lumps to provide hot metal to the flywheel as it cools and shrinks, I feed into one and vent from the other. I am using aluminium bronze which seems to shrink a lot. the blob can be used as a two part pattern to give twice the volume but in this case I am only using it in the top half of the flask. If I use the blobs opposite sides of the pattern the center hub shrinks, the placement in the picture works.
The 90 mm pattern has a larger center hub so I can use a taper lock.
The patterns have draft, slightly tapered spokes in both directions and fillets and work quite well, I give them a couple of coats of spray putty to smooth them and the gloss paint on the red one worked really well.

Enjoy
Andrew
 

ptrmkr

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as a patternmaker and foundry foreman , there are many ways to calculate shrink with out a shrink rule.
the easiest is to find out what the metal shrink is, add that to 12 inches then divide by 12.

stainless= 5/16 12.3125 divided by 12 = 1.026 multiply this by actual dimension.
example: ( 6.5x1.026=6.669 )

I hope this helps

United Pattern
 

Jasonb

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Here's a 1/2 pattern for a fairly heavy rimmed 5-spoke one that will machine to 112mm dia finish size when cast in iron. I used my CNC to cut the patterns but they should print OK too.

As for shrinkage I just draw them finished size, add draft and machining allowance and then scale the 3D file which increases all dimensions at a click of the mouse.



 

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