C
chiliviking
Guest
It's always an exciting time when you get an engine to the point where the crank and flywheel turn freely in it's bearings. When I first pressed the bushings into the bearing mounts one of the bushings seemed tight on the shaft so I mounted the bearing mounts on the base but left the bolts loose enough that the caps could align themselves as I ran a hand reamer through them inserting it first in the one that it fit freely in and then reamed the tight side using the othe side to hold it in alignment. It spins freely now and will continue rotating for a while as you spin it and let go.
I have been working mostly on the mill lately so decided that making the oil cups on the lathe would be a change. I will probably thread the insides and make knurled for them in the future but I wanted to look at them plain first and see what I think.
On the crank arm the plans call for a set screw to hold it to the crankshaft but I made it with an interference fit and will press it on the shaft and pin it with a roll pin. This will allow the crank only able to be removed one way rather than from either side but I think it is a good trdeoff for the security it will provide. I will wait until I get to the point I can machine the slot for the keyway before I press it together as that will give me more options for holding the shaft while machining the slot. For anyone considering building this engine the plans call for a 3/32 woodrift key but most broach kits do not have a 5/8 bushing to cut a 3/32 keyway so I broached my flywheel 1/8" and will use a straight key as opposed to the woodruff.
I have been working mostly on the mill lately so decided that making the oil cups on the lathe would be a change. I will probably thread the insides and make knurled for them in the future but I wanted to look at them plain first and see what I think.
On the crank arm the plans call for a set screw to hold it to the crankshaft but I made it with an interference fit and will press it on the shaft and pin it with a roll pin. This will allow the crank only able to be removed one way rather than from either side but I think it is a good trdeoff for the security it will provide. I will wait until I get to the point I can machine the slot for the keyway before I press it together as that will give me more options for holding the shaft while machining the slot. For anyone considering building this engine the plans call for a 3/32 woodrift key but most broach kits do not have a 5/8 bushing to cut a 3/32 keyway so I broached my flywheel 1/8" and will use a straight key as opposed to the woodruff.