Flywheel mounted

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chiliviking

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It's always an exciting time when you get an engine to the point where the crank and flywheel turn freely in it's bearings. When I first pressed the bushings into the bearing mounts one of the bushings seemed tight on the shaft so I mounted the bearing mounts on the base but left the bolts loose enough that the caps could align themselves as I ran a hand reamer through them inserting it first in the one that it fit freely in and then reamed the tight side using the othe side to hold it in alignment. It spins freely now and will continue rotating for a while as you spin it and let go.

I have been working mostly on the mill lately so decided that making the oil cups on the lathe would be a change. I will probably thread the insides and make knurled for them in the future but I wanted to look at them plain first and see what I think.

DSCN2810.jpg


On the crank arm the plans call for a set screw to hold it to the crankshaft but I made it with an interference fit and will press it on the shaft and pin it with a roll pin. This will allow the crank only able to be removed one way rather than from either side but I think it is a good trdeoff for the security it will provide. I will wait until I get to the point I can machine the slot for the keyway before I press it together as that will give me more options for holding the shaft while machining the slot. For anyone considering building this engine the plans call for a 3/32 woodrift key but most broach kits do not have a 5/8 bushing to cut a 3/32 keyway so I broached my flywheel 1/8" and will use a straight key as opposed to the woodruff.

DSCN2808.jpg
 
hey that engine is really starting look good. I would have done the same on the broach, but often have made a bushing for an odd size, nothing you'd have problem doing based on the work I see. I can't help myself but ask - are the cap head screws temporary? its too good looking a project to put together with cap heads imo.
 
Yeah I have wrestled with that too. I've started making small cap screws from hex stock but only have a few made. It will look more time period correct with hex head cap screws.
 
Mcgyver said:
- are the cap head screws temporary? its too good looking a project to put together with cap heads imo.

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I need to sit down and order bunch of cap head screws for steam engine I am building..They not period correct but I like the helloutta'em..
 
I've started making small cap screws from hex stock but only have a few made.

You can buy hex head bolts, in model engineer sizes (hex size is proportional and looks right) or you can make them. Personally, unless the size i need is unavailable or i'm trying for a special look like a flanged bolt/nut or a domed head, it is way too much tedium to make them. It makes a huge difference to the appearance of the model though.
 
Could you list sources please as you are right about the tedium. I made all the bolts when I built my Ajax but it was a lengthy operation.
 
I have to agree with Mcgyver over the looks on an engine, but not all is lost.
I like working with cap screws, but always try to hide them as much as possible if it is an older style of engine. I do normally use retail hex head screws.
There is a bit of a way to cheat without having to go to all the trouble of making the hex headed screws. Recess the cap screws to just below the surface (if possible) and then get a bit of hex bar, only just wide enough across the flats to cover the counterbore, and turn a spigot on the end so it just fits into the hex hole in the screw, then part off to the required length. After the engine has been finally assembled, just superglue the 'covers' in, you can even get them all to line up perfectly. A quick twist with a spanner will soon get them out if you need to take apart. The same goes for external cap screws, but the heads do tend to look a little large. You use hex bar just larger across the flats than the o.d. of the cap screw head, and drill a hole in them to fit over the cap head.
I know it is cheating, but who else will know?

John
 
Dang, Chili, that's a fine looking engine. Good work!

Chuck
 
I will second the endorsement for micro fasteners prices are good andshipping is VERYfast and not very expensive.

Regards, Bret
 
Ordered from Coles as Micro Fasteners only carried the hex bolts in S.S. and I prefer steel for this project but have put Micro in my favorites and will use them in the future, Thanks to all for the sources.
 

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