Speaking of bolts I was watching Star Trek DS9 Quark has a bunch of “ stem bolts” he always trying to pedal supposedly worth a fortune in gold pressed Latium . What the heck are thes and what are they used for?
Buron
Flywheel becoming loose (setscrew is used)
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Buron
In my ongoing attempt to learn more about piston valve timing. I’ve read a number of articles and watched videos
Each start with the flywheel and power piston at TDC . Perfect I understand that from hot rod world . We used degrees balancers
and timing rings to establish this and set ignition timing snd cam timing . So nothing new there . I really don’t want to make perms too marks on these flywheels yet. So I looked for some kind of sticky backed Mylar tape measures I could just stick on the make calculation of distance based on flywheel diameter . I YHINK that will work as far as finding the TDC I can then mark it and proceed to note graduations it may not be dead perfect but pretty close , certainly better than eyebal “ about” adjustments . So I ordered this and I’ll apply some . I can then not exact position of the piston valve in degrees . I can then make adjustments as needed. The videos and texts seemed to have wildly different approaches the so called “ lead varies from a lot to not much with compressed air it should be pretty consistent across my engines but when steam comes it can vary because of the increased energy in steam. A little for a long way . The ports are pretty small on this engine and you can’t see them when the engines are assembled. As in the videos and texts it will be different but adjustments can be made in measured amounts either way . I can see many pages of notes and maybe a video later . I’ve got one last interruption today then I can get back to fun . This has been a difficult hobby but any would be . Jumping into scale Rc warbirds or streetrods
Byron would be difficult too , to a new comer.
Each start with the flywheel and power piston at TDC . Perfect I understand that from hot rod world . We used degrees balancers
and timing rings to establish this and set ignition timing snd cam timing . So nothing new there . I really don’t want to make perms too marks on these flywheels yet. So I looked for some kind of sticky backed Mylar tape measures I could just stick on the make calculation of distance based on flywheel diameter . I YHINK that will work as far as finding the TDC I can then mark it and proceed to note graduations it may not be dead perfect but pretty close , certainly better than eyebal “ about” adjustments . So I ordered this and I’ll apply some . I can then not exact position of the piston valve in degrees . I can then make adjustments as needed. The videos and texts seemed to have wildly different approaches the so called “ lead varies from a lot to not much with compressed air it should be pretty consistent across my engines but when steam comes it can vary because of the increased energy in steam. A little for a long way . The ports are pretty small on this engine and you can’t see them when the engines are assembled. As in the videos and texts it will be different but adjustments can be made in measured amounts either way . I can see many pages of notes and maybe a video later . I’ve got one last interruption today then I can get back to fun . This has been a difficult hobby but any would be . Jumping into scale Rc warbirds or streetrods
Byron would be difficult too , to a new comer.
I have to explode the home made taper 1/4 40 me tube or pipe will need to be drilled to 6mm in my case for the shaft essentially make a wdvtaper hub with the taper compression provided by forcing the thread taper to compress on the shaft wd40 hubs usually have built in jack screws to remove them . The next option is to use 1/16 pipe taper the same way , again I have to explore sizes . I thought that it would be possible to add a brass tube sleeve inside the hub to make up more correct diameters. Currently I use counter bores shaft collars that grip the hub the best are double split I hand split a couple then heli oiled the 4 mm thread it’s not the strongest but it does work currently I’m working on a designed double split hub for the eccentrics this gets a little complicated as the removable half of the hub needs to be made as a connecting rod cap . I may be able to salvage a small shaft collar and use 2 mm socket head screws . But this is getting pretty small I don’t need a lot of force to hold the eccentric hubs but there is not much shaft space . They are not hard pard parts to make but just small . I may contact a local 3 d metal printer and see if they could just print half dozen hubs . According to what I was told he can print so am2 thread might only have to be chased to debut it if cost is good that would be the fix . I have a classic car that I’m goingvto sell so I just may turn it over into a 3 d metal printer of my own . Technically it would be safer than me wandering about in the shop . They also can print plastic with nozzle change and temp adjustment . I don’t know how much electric power they take but I do ave 220 available. I now have my solid works connected to my tv so I can see the screen better I’m working an hour a day to relearn the SW. it’s coming back slowly . Looking atvthe mess tat the little engine crash caused. Ifvyhe crankshaft had been polished or cut about .003 under size where the set screws located the mess would have been avoided altogether since the lathe is down I can’t even do that myself as a repair.
Here's a model of an industrial "Clampex" coupling I made - mostly just to see if it would work :-
It worked fine - nut was a prototype to test torque - came in at 7.5 ft.lbs.
And how I used it to secure the flywheel on my beam engine (those are M2 Cap Head Screws) :-
Has a nice industrial appearance.
Otherwise an awful lot more work than a simple grub screw WTH knock yourself out.
Regards, Ken
It worked fine - nut was a prototype to test torque - came in at 7.5 ft.lbs.
And how I used it to secure the flywheel on my beam engine (those are M2 Cap Head Screws) :-
Has a nice industrial appearance.
Otherwise an awful lot more work than a simple grub screw WTH knock yourself out.
Regards, Ken
10+ years machinist/tool and die maker, then over 40 years machine design engineer, I learned very early on to hate set screws on rotating shafts with a blinding purple passion! I used many different shaft locking devices over the decades, and absolutely refused to put a set screw on a shaft that was rotating. I did design changes in my Stuart two cyl launch engine to avoid set screws.
www.homemodelenginemachinist.com
Another Stuart Twin Launch build started.
My dad got a Stuart Twin Launch kit as a retirement gift when he retired in 1980. He put together a small shop over a couple years, and barely started the work on this, but he passed away in 1984. I got the kit about 4 years ago planning to finish it one day. Well, I have now started on it...
www.homemodelenginemachinist.com
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10+ years machinist/tool and die maker, then over 40 years machine design engineer, I learned very early on to hate set screws on rotating shafts with a blinding purple passion! I used many different shaft locking devices over the decades, and absolutely
Glad somebody agrees with me refused to put a set screw on a shaft that was rotating. I did design changes in my Stuart two cyl launch engine to avoid set screws.
Another Stuart Twin Launch build started.
My dad got a Stuart Twin Launch kit as a retirement gift when he retired in 1980. He put together a small shop over a couple years, and barely started the work on this, but he passed away in 1984. I got the kit about 4 years ago planning to finish it one day. Well, I have now started on it...
