Face Cutter Woes

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Yeah I saw that too, but that BS only has 2 codes corresponding to .055" & .094" whereas the 16xx series in my screen grab shows a wider range variation.

Anyway, another good reason to validate the insert designation 100%. Also notice cutting direction code: L=Left N=Neutral R=Right. Maybe you have a neutral?

2017-01-04_18-57-56.jpg
 
BS is not necessarily a wiper, but a cutting edge. Closer to center those inserts will not cut.
 
For not too much money (but a lot of time waiting ) you can try some different inserts that might be better:
http://www.banggood.com/10pcs-25R0_8-Carbide-Inserts-for-Mill-Cutter-CNC-Tool-p-1023234.html
Mike

Mike, thanks for link. Interesting. I've never ordered from BangGood but I'm always game to try. Some of the carbide endmills I sourced from AliExpress have been great at very decent prices. Do you think its essentially tied to same suppliers or some things you prefer there over other providers? (sorry for the subject matter departure, PM me if its off topic)
 
Further to my post,and hopefully may be of interest to others
As I stated previosely I have the same cutter.Excerlent value for money
I made a simple lathe tool to hold the tip and its excerlent for rough turning
While playing about at tool grinding with my thread on the eccentric system
I sharpened a no of tools.When sharpening the RCT and noticing a big
improvement I realized I could use the tool as a fixture to hold the tips
for grinding in the mill with a cheap diamond cup wheel.I removed the tips from the face cutter one at a time and sharpened them at the same setting
makes a big difference to the finish and ease of cut with the face mill
Hope it helps Regards Barry http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u664/bazmak47/d 3_zps5n
 
Hi Barry,

Useful setup. You have improved the edge and rake of those inserts. I'm glad that you realised that they all needed to be ground at the same setting, then one tooth doesn't do all the work, though using a single tooth basically creates a more rigid fly cutter.
 
Wow, Bazmak. A lot of trouble to go to, but I can see the benefits. My 3" cutter with triangular inserts dulls off very quickly even at only 270 rpm. Very expensive in inserts, but this looks like a great idea. I will give it a try when time permits. What speed do you run your diamond head at?
 
Hi kelvin2164,

If you are running a 3 inch carbide insert face mill on steel at 270 rpm then you aren't running it fast enough. Depending upon the DOC I would have thought at least double that speed. Carbide needs to be pushed a lot more than HSS.
 
Grinding wheel speed in the mill at max in my case 2000rpm
Just take 2 thou off each tip at same setting.The tips then act
like HSS and cut rather than gouge like an rct does.The speed
for carbide should be 2/3 times faster than hss or it does not cut effectively
I always try to use carbide to rough out the meat and finish with hss
Carbide is the only thing,to my mind for cutting the skin/scale from
cast iron and HRSt.Just a note on this face mill.With sharp tips any
problems are not down to the cutter but overcapacity with the mill itself
The cutter works great skimming a 1" wide piece of steel but struggles
to face the full width of 2"
.Due to lack of rigidity and umpf with the small bench mill.For skimming
large areas the flycutter with a single point carbide cutter is far superior
Just a thought but what mill are using for a 3" face mill.Would need to be a monster
 
It's a 2hp machine and seems to handle a 20 thou, 3" wide cut ok. Well maybe not ok when I think about it. I'm just a self taught, home machinist, and maybe the shuddering is not normal, but I dont know, never having worked in a real machine shop, with real machines not toys. I used to run it at 560 rpm and faster and does give a better finish, but the tips wore out even faster (Mitsubishi carbide inserts)
 

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