Example of 3D Printing

Discussion in 'Tips and Tricks' started by SBWHART, May 1, 2012.

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  1. May 1, 2012 #1

    SBWHART

    SBWHART

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    A ex work friend bought himself a 3D printer and asked me if I had anything that would be suitable that he could use that showed the off the printers capability to produce molding paterns, well i didn't so I contacted Rob Willson and he kindly provided a 3D drawing of a cylinder patern.

    This is the result

    [​IMG]

    Aparently the printer is not unlike a CNC router but instead of a cutter it has a plastic injecting nozle, you first have to convert the 3D drawing into G code as used for CNC, this is used to drive the printer that builds up a matrix of plastic to form the patern.

    Neat hey :big:

    Stew

     
  2. May 1, 2012 #2

    Herbiev

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    Totally awesome :bow:
     
  3. May 1, 2012 #3

    lazylathe

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    Hey Stew,

    Do you have that file in .stl format?
    If you do could you upload a copy of it?
    I can print off a copy here and show the results using our rapid prototyping printer.

    Andrew
     
  4. May 1, 2012 #4

    rhitee93

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    Spooky. Just yesterday I sent some files for a pattern to cast an Elmer's #29 cylinder to the guy who runs our 3D printer. I'll post some pics when I get them.

    Our machine is not and FDM (Fusion Deposition Modeling) machine like the original post, but uses an UV cured acrylic. the resulting parts are not as strong as the ABS parts from an FDM machine, but have a better surface finish.

    We also send a lot of parts out to be made on a sterolithography (SLA) machine. Those parts have a very good finish, good tolerances, and there is a wide variety of material options.
     
  5. May 1, 2012 #5

    lazylathe

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    LOL!!
    We have two Projet DP 3000 printers here.
    Also using a light cured acrylic material with a paraffin wax used for support.

    Great surface finish and extremely accurate.

    We use them to print all of out metal denture frameworks which are then cast in an induction machine.

    Andrew
     
  6. May 1, 2012 #6

    rhitee93

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    That is funny, we have the SD3000 form the same company :)
     
  7. May 1, 2012 #7

    jolijar

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    You can get a DIY version of the commercial printers for around $500-1500 they work pretty well. The detail and tolerances isn't as good and you cant have big overhangs...

    lots of users post stuff they made on this site
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9166
    this is one of the items I designed and printed for a friend of mine. Made out of ABS plastic

    I recommended checking out the makergear printers they are pretty much the best of the best when it comes to home printers.

    http://www.makergear.com/products/m-series-3d-printers
     
  8. May 1, 2012 #8
    The inexpensive 3D printers don't seem to be very reliable, can be extremely slow, may not have very good software, and the parts generally have rough surfaces.

    The expensive 3D printers work well, but the equipment and material costs are astronomical to say the least.

    Below is a 3D print from a $25,000 machine.
    Sometimes you can farm out the 3D printing if you can get a cheap enough quote.

    The inexpensive 3D printers don't seem ready for prime time yet.

    Also, be aware that a raw 3D model is usless as a pattern.
    You have to consider such things as shrinkage, parting surfaces, core prints, machining tolerances, draft angle, etc., etc.

    Pattern making is an entirely different thing above and beyond making a 3D model.
    Casting is yet another art, with gates, risers, flasks, green sand, etc.

    3D-Printer-01.jpg

    3D-Printer-02.jpg

    3D-Printer-03.jpg
     
    R.Diesel likes this.
  9. May 6, 2012 #9

    Tin Falcon

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    There is a kid from the NEMMES group that has a rapman. the kit is currently 1495
    he has had it on display at caben fever and the NEES shows.

    site to ponder
    http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap
    tin
     
  10. May 7, 2012 #10

    warranator

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  11. May 7, 2012 #11

    Billzilla

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    I've also got a 3D printer and have used it for all sorts of things.
    I thought some people here might be interested in it because it uses ABS plastic and so you can print an object with it, then use that object to make a mould. When you pour the molten metal in, the ABS just burns away with no residue.
    So I could make small blocks, cranks, pistons, etc - As mentioned above they would all need a bit of finishing though as it has a layered finish about 0.2 mm thick.

    These aren't mine, but it'll make objects like this quite well -

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

     
  12. May 7, 2012 #12

    Tin Falcon

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    solid doodle looks nice for the price tempting
    Tin
     
  13. May 7, 2012 #13

    Jeremy_BP

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    The $1500 reprap is a rip-off. Don't get it.
    I've been working on a printer recently that I think is the best thing out there right now (of course, I'm biased, since I work on it). It's the ORD bot platform, from buildlog.net. However, I have used and do use many other printers.

    Right now, if you want to get a very good printer, there are a couple options. For a kit or fully assembled machine, I recommend the ultimaker or makerbot replicator.
    If you're willing to build from scratch, I recommend a mendelmax or ORD bot.

    I've been able to get finer quality prints on $600 machines than on a $25000 strayasys, but that's because I put too much time into them. DIY printers are not at the stage where they "just work" yet. That will probably be a while still.
     
  14. May 7, 2012 #14

    warranator

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  15. May 7, 2012 #15

    student_Machinist

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    Ive been working on one of my own designs for a while, Ill post pics when im done or if anyone wants semi finished pics let me know.
     
  16. May 7, 2012 #16

    ruzzie

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  17. May 7, 2012 #17

    Tin Falcon

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    I did notice on the site that is a stripped version and a stripped price also looks like a reorder deal you may have to pay now and wait two moths while they build it.
    Tin
     
  18. May 7, 2012 #18

    b.lindsey

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    Having worked with commercial machines for almost 5 years now (primarily Stratysis and more recnently V-Flash) I have seen the price and footprints come down steadily. Several students have also worked on "home brew" type systems "reprap" in particular. The technology is still emerging and resolutions continue to get better. One thing that has not been mentioned however is maintenance. Typically a maintenance agreement on a commercial machine is in the range of 12-15% of its original cost...which for us can be $3000 per year per machine and believe it or not, that has proven to be a good deal. Over the last four years one machine has been rebuilt completely from a mechanical standpoint, and the second machine is beginning that cycle now. One of the main issues is wear and resulting "slop" in the linear bearings particularly in the X-Y planes. With literally thousands of movements necessary for each build, such wear is inevitable and takes a toll on part quality. In addition, the extrusion head which is equally as important to the process as the X-Y-Z control continuously operates at around 300 degrees C and does need maintenance/replacement periodically as well. While my experience with these more "home" type systems is limited to just an awaremess of them, I would be most curious to get some idea of how reliable they are over time and the maintenance issues surrounding them also.

    Bill
     
  19. May 8, 2012 #19

    Billzilla

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    Mine seems to be pretty good so far.
    I've printed out some new parts for it to see how they go - mechanically it's been fine over the last year.
     
  20. Jul 20, 2012 #20

    B-RAD

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    Great thread to bump, I'm looking at getting one, hard decision...
     

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