endmill

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rrocky

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Hullo members, any information where I can purchase a .346" 4 flute carbide endmill? have searched the net no result. rrocky
 

Chiptosser

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You would have to find someone with a tool grinder to get that diameter.
Why do you want the specific diameter?
 

rrocky

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You would have to find someone with a tool grinder to get that diameter.
Why do you want the specific diameter?
Hi, building Demon V8 water pump it needs 2 holes for gears to run in, have seen 8.8mm endmill but cannot find it again, thanks for reply. rrocky
 

Chiptosser

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Can you silver solder a small lathe tool bit to short piece of rod and grind it?
Do you have a boring head?
 

Jasonb

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Or mount it on a rotary table and use say a 6mm dia milling cutter.

Alternative would be to skim the crests off the gears and use a 11/32" cutter, doubt a couple of thou will affect flow too much
 

nautilus29

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Typically if you use an end mill to bore out a hole it will cut bigger than the end mill size, so even if you find the end mill you are looking for you may not be happy with your results.
 

goldstar31

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Why does it have to be carbide?
Of course, the suggestion is Fanciful.

I could be less polite but will refrain.

FCHeslop's posting of an really superb video sets a standard which surprises and delights me,
As far as I can see, ALL the wonderful outcome was achieved on these mucg despised Chinese lathes and having a similar lathe to what appears to be only a Sieg C4 makes me ashamed to compare it with my miserable efforts.
Let's try to improve standaerds, They are available to emulate as we can see

Norman
 

grahamgollar

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I agree with Nautilus, a 4 flute mill won't give an accurate bore. Use a 2 flute {slot) mill for a more accurate result. Another suggestion - why not find a near oversize counterbore and grind it back to the required diameter. This is probably easier than grinding an end mill.
 

IanN

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As a number of people have pointed out, an end mill is the wrong tool for the job.

The end mill is designed for one job only - profiling (cutting with its side) and should never be used to cut with its end

I think the point made by Norman is that there is a tendency for people to assume “high tech” solutions to simple problems. As a result we have idiots who clear swarf and “clean” machines using compressed air, who never learn to use a hacksaw because they truly believe a bandsaw is the only way to cut a piece of metal, and who spend 20 minutes setting up and milling a job which would take two minutes if you used a file on the bench

The web is full of machining videos, made by people who may (or may not) know what they are doing, who may (or may not) show safe practice, who may (or may not) explain the processes at work.

Treat forums (this one included) and YouTube videos as “interesting talking points” but do not try to use them as a substitute for proper instruction

I would advise people to learn methods from old books - there are many out of copyright texts freely available and books written in the 19th century were intended for apprentices who worked on foot-powered lathes and had no access to verniers or micrometers

It is the difference between “training” and “education” .

All the best
Ian
 

goldstar31

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I think the point made by Norman is that there is a tendency for people to assume “high tech” solutions to simple problems.
Respecfully,


I don't go for 'high tech\ stuff but I do gp for elegant solutions.
There is a lot of confusion about what is white simply 'widening a hole' and a respondent to my reply lierally doesn't know what the Hell trhat I was prsattling about.

Years ago, I spent perhaps £30 on Georgee Thomas's Model engineer's Workshop Manual and was impressed on just how cheap( but elegant) his tooling was.
For instance there is vast amount on how to do precision boring as an
arguably superior . THREE of his boring tools are nothing more than a bit of square or rectangular mill steel, an socket screww and a - wait for it---- a broken centre drill on each item.
In other words, I am a crude ill educated Geordie out of sh1t row and as a quite capable cost account have realised the cost is bluntly, the square root of bugger all!
In the same book, there is a oddly sorted heap of metal which is an adjustable boring head which wil do ball handles as well and the cost was a Model Engineer 40 TPI tap and die.
A few moths ago, I bought a bundle of scrap ms sheet and a few short lengths of EN1A.


Bluntltly, just how cheap do you want to pay for your hobby folks?

Enough from me

Norman
 
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