dumb,stupid or stuborn ?????

[chuck foster]

well i bought an sx3 mill about a year or so ago and every one i spoke to about this mill said they were a great little mill. they also told me to take it apart and clean it, well i never did take it apart until today.

all the guys i asked told me that when you take it apart you will find loose bolts and crud in the ways and so on. well guys you were right.

i took apart the cross slide and table and found all kinds of crud in there, thank fully there appears to be no damage or wear.
now the main reason i took it apart was no matter how i adjusted the gibs in the tables i would get chatter while cutting.
.020" deep cuts with a 3/4" endmill in steel with coolant would make the worst chattering i have ever heard.

after taking it all apart and cleaning and oiling i put in a piece of cold rolled steel and took .020" cut with a 3/4" end mill and there was no chatter at all.
then i took a .100" cut in the same piece of steel and still no chatter. the chips were coming off blue i used no coolant.

i still have to tram the mill but i am very happy with the results. the next project will be one of bog's tramming tools. ;D ;D

so many thanks to all that helped me decide to buy this mill and i am sorry i didn't listen to ALL of you suggestions.

chuck

 

[pete]

Chuck,
Well you learned something anyway. Even if I could afford a brand new Bridgeport, I'd still pull the table off to verify that the one shot oiler was delivering oil to every part it should. These cheaper mills are not properly cleaned after machining and grinding, Or even assembled in anything remotely resembling clean room conditions. When I did my mill, I didn't get pounds of crud out of it, But there was far more than enough to make it well worth while. Arc Euro Trade in the U.K. will do the same for an added hefty price on new equipment. Due to my experience, I'd never buy any new or used mill no matter who built it without doing what you did before putting it to work. A recomendation, Depending on usage. I'd do the same about once a year, As your mill wears in you'll get a lot of slideway wear particals and the same on the leadscrews and nuts. Cleaning all that out and your mill will last far longer, But it will also retain it's accuracy a lot longer too. It's just good preventive maintenace IMO.

You did relube with a proper light weight way oil right?

Pete

 

[Sshire]

Finally, after 6 months of waiting my lathe arrived yesterday!!! Grizzly G0602. With the riggers not coming to move it to the basement until Friday, cleaning began.
After uncrating it, I removed anything (except the headstock) that was removable. Tailstock, compound slide, steady rest, follow rest, cross slide and carriage. Virtually everyone of them was frozen in place by whatever they use as a rust preventative. Liberal wetting with Simple Green and Kroil finally freed everything. Got all of the gunk off with chip and tooth brushes. I am so glad I did this. Applications of way oil and Mobil 1 per grizzly's instructions. After putting all parts back on things are very smooth. I can't imagine what would happen if it was left uncleaned. The rust preventative would have cured like epoxy.
Tomorrow's job is chuck removal. I'm making Marv's "banjo" this evening and I've already warmed and Kroiled the chuck.
Pictures tomorrow.
Best
Stan

 

[MachineTom]

As I am not familiar with mini mills, so I maybe am out of line, But using a 3/4 end mill in a small mill, even at .020 DOC sounds a bit too big. There was a sales video of a mini mill drilling a 1" hole, after a 3/8 or larger pilot hole was done, it took so long to drill the hole they had to edit the tape, to make it viewable. In addition the machine was making all sorts of noises. A Bridgeport would have drilled that hole in less time than the edited tape. So that is where my thoughts begin.

 

[Sshire]

Tom
I have a Weiss BF-20 (their smallest). I'm not sure what is classified as a "mini mill" but if the definition is "smaller than a Bridgeport" then mine qualifies. Not sure what mill you saw but mine handles .750 end mills just fine along with a Criterion boring head. I've drilled 3/4" holes in 12L14 quickly with no strain.
Would I like a Bridgeport in my shop? You bet I would and after raising the ceiling and figuring out how to get it through the front door, front hall , through the kitchen and down the basement stairs I'd be a happy camper. Unfortunately, I'd bet that a large percentage of the folks here are in the same situation. We have a small shop in an inaccessible place for large machinery. So we use what fits our space and budget.
Other than saying that some mini mills are "minier" than others, the above was absolutely not directed at you. This rant has been building for a few months when reading other forums (not HMEM to be sure.) The biggest offender is Practical Machinist. I realize that it is aimed a professionals but when a "newbie" asks a question there such as "Has anyone had any experience with a (insert mini mill or 10" lathe model here?) The answer usually is "Forget that toy, get a Bridgeport" or "Get American iron. Find a Clausing or a South Bend and rebuild it.)
All the poor guy wanted was some advice so he can build something from Elmer's Engines not a propeller shaft for a cruise ship"
Again Tom, this is NOT aimed at you. Just saying.
Best
Stan

 

[chuck foster]

hey guys i was just pointing out what i had found and learned so some one else did not do the same mistakes as me that's all.

chuck

 

[Sshire]

Chuck
I agree 100%. This is where HMEM is far above other forums.
Chinese machines are produced at various price points and we buy what we can afford.
The price point of these machines requires that we do a bit of tuning to make them run smoothly. A machine made in the USA obviously doesn't require the same rust goop as one made here since they aren't taking an around the world cruise.
My comments probably should have been in a new thread. I apologize for that.
I am no where near the level of rebuilding a used Southbend or Clausing which is why I bought new machinery.
Grizzly has an interesting spin on the goop removal in the manual. I'll post it here.
Best
Stan

 

[Sshire]

Grizzly's spin on anti rust goop

"The rust preventative has been your machine's close ally and guardian since it left the factory. If your machine arrived to you free of rust, then be thankful that the rust preventative protected it during its journey and try to stay thankful as you clean it off because it can be challenging to remove if you are unprepared and impatient. "