Drip Oiler--with a secret--

[Brian Rupnow]

I have been wanting to build a couple of oilers for my Kerzel engine, and today was the first chance I got to think about it very much. I want to be able to control the flow of oil, shut it off when the engine is setting idle, and have them easy to fill. I didn't want to use Loctite because it apparently will damage the clear vinyl tubing. I already have a couple of #10-24 shcs. drilled out and acting as bearing retainers/oilers on the engine, so these will Loctite onto the head of the screws. (Loctite won't damage the metal, only the clear vinyl) These plans are very adaptable to any engine, and the fact that there is some very definite control for the oil flow, and a way to shut it off if required are a bonus. If you like these plans, feel free to download them and use them, and if you do, a karma point would be much appreciated.---Merry Christmas.---Brian

View attachment ASSY OF OILER.PDF

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Here is the most innovative part--the base with the holes for oil flow and a needle valve.

View attachment OILER BASE.PDF

 

[Brian Rupnow]

The cap----

View attachment OILER TOP.PDF

 

[Brian Rupnow]

And of course, the needle valve. (I've got to get rid of that box of 100 #2-56 screws somehow!!!!)

View attachment #2-56 SHCS X 0.5 INCH LG-MODIFIED..PDF

 

[Peter.]

Very elegant!

 

[Shopguy]

Brian
Somehow my reply didn't post.
Very innovative. Filing for future reference. Thanks for posting.
Ernie

 

[Brian Rupnow]

I've just discovered that a 4 flute 1/2" endmill held in the tailstock chuck makes a perfect sized flat bottom hole in a peice of brass held in the lathe.-On re-reading this post it looks rather inane, but I am talking about the flat bottom holes which the clear tubing set into.

 

[Ed T]

Does there need to be a provision to let air into the top as the oil drains out the bottom, or will there be enough leakage around the threads at the top?

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Does there need to be a provision to let air into the top as the oil drains out the bottom, or will there be enough leakage around the threads at the top?

Beats me!!!

 

[CaptSensible]

Nice design, nice plans. Now I know what to to with all these extra bolts...

 

[nfk]

Superb design!

 

[jpeter]

Is it important to be able to see it driping?

 

[Sleazey]

Nice design. Saved that in my plans folder.

Can you post a PDF version of the cap? The image you posted is certainly usable, but the high resolution of the PDF version will look better when printed, and my eyes need all the help they can get!

Thanks muchly!

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Now, ain't that as cute as a bugs ear!!! I didn't have any short 1/4" shcs available, but will shorten a couple of long ones tomorrow. The needle valves work, tested by the old "blow your guts out method" while opening and closing the shcs that is now a needle. JPeter---I will assume that was a serious question.---No, its not important to see it dripping, in fact you can't. Those clear tubes are reservoirs to hold the oil while the engine is running.---You can see when the oil is running low and add more through the hole in the top where the 1/4" shcs goes. They look good on the engine, but time will tell if they are a true advantage, or just something to get bumped and knocked off.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Nice design. Saved that in my plans folder.

Can you post a PDF version of the cap? The image you posted is certainly usable, but the high resolution of the PDF version will look better when printed, and my eyes need all the help they can get!

Thanks muchly!

Its been added.

 

[1hand]

Them are huge oil cups! Fill them up, and your good for days of running. :big:

 

[jonesie]

they look good brian. how do you get oil to the cly. and wrist pin. does this ic have rings or o-rings. again they look good. jonesie

 

[Brian Rupnow]

they look good brian. how do you get oil to the cly. and wrist pin. does this ic have rings or o-rings. again they look good. jonesie

I mix a bit of 2 cycle oil with the Naptha it runs for fuel to oil the cylinder. Its got Viton o-rings for piston rings. On this engine there aren't any provisions for oiling the wrist pin.

 

[Deanofid]

JPeter---I will assume that was a serious question.---No, its not important to see it dripping, in fact you can't.

That was a very pertinent question that Jim asked. The reason normal drip oilers are made the way they are is so you know that what you want to get oil to is actually getting oil. They have a small port on the bottom that is open for viewing, and you can see the drip as it goes into the oil port. Without being able to see that you don't know if you are getting oil or not!
By the time you realize that the oil level in your oiler is not going down, you will have been running your engine without oil for some time.

Also, a normal drip oiler usually has a snap valve which opens to the same preset adjustment flow each time you open it. You set it once, check the drip interval (which is easy to see), and lock it. It shuts off with a flick of the finger, and next time you open it, it is already preset to the place you had it last time you ran your engine.

Those two important features have been eliminated here. They do look nice indeed, but seem to be a de-evolution of an already proven design.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Deanofid---I didn't know about all the stuff you posted. I wanted oil reservoirs that could be filled with oil, the level checked visually, and a means of controlling the oil flow. I achieved all that, so I'm quite happy with my design. I can see the benefits to the oilers which you are talking about, on large industrial type engines. For hobby engines with a 3/4" bore that are ran occasionally for display, my oilers will be just fine. If you don't like my cheap homemade oilers, I suggest you go down to the bank today, get out a wheelbarrow load of money, and go buy some of the fancy ones.----Brian