- Nov 25, 2014
- Reaction score
How i made my tangential tool / Diamond Tool Holder:
My tangential tool is angled 12 degrees forward and to the left. Allows roughing to the left and facing.Nicely done, both of you. Question - Baron, it looks like yours is set up such that it can only do a left/right turning cut, not a facing cut (without re-adjusting the tool holder).
FWIW, I made a tangential tool holder that angles both left and forward, allowing it to both turn left/right and face without moving the tool. The attached pictures are not great, and for some reason I didn't snap one of facing (and I'm too lazy to go make one right now), but hopefully you can see how it presents the corner such that it can face and turn at the same time. As a result, this is the tool that lives in my toolholder 90% of the time.
Celsoari, I can't tell for sure if yours does the same thing as I describe above - it looks like it might?
Note that my version is kinda a hack job, nowhere near as nice as either of the ones above!!
Gmorning K,Thanks for the tips - and comments on tips! My (crude) diamond tool holder - made a few years ago - lives in the 4-way tool post as with a very sharp tool it will take 2 thou. In brass, but the the lathe groans and I have to slow the feed rate. But I like the idea of using a round bit, although I have an 'old faithful' bull nosed carbide tipped tool that does all my heavy machining very successfully. So the diamond bit does sharp-cornered shaped parts and single thou finishing. I also made a sharpening holder, but it's so good I hardly ever need to sharpen the tool bit. Maybe because I don't do much heavy cutting on tough steels, or cast materials? I like the geometry of the diamond tool holder, but is the same advantage necessary on a round tool? The corner will be a nice large (Low-stress) corner of slight eliptical form...? (Spell check called this "elitist" ... ! ).
Well done for these tips!
I thought you used a shear tool like me for ultra fine cuts ! Nearly as good as grinding.I'm sort of aiming for - as Martin Cleeve described years ago- barely perceptible swarf. The stuff which will crumble between the fingers without having to pulled out with a watchmaker's loup and a fine needle.
Personally, I'm too shaky to hone by hand and rely on 'something mechanical' Grumbling slightly, I got a taper cup Aloxite wheel with 60 grit. That's not fine enough.
As for 'rounding off' lathe tools, I have in mind the Jim Whetren gadget to fit on my 'Worden' grinder- which is in construction.
My thoughts for the day
Then this is what you need Norman. These are designed for aluminium, but work very well on mild steel too. The swarf that comes off these is like fluff.I'm sort of aiming for - as Martin Cleeve described years ago- barely perceptical swarf. The stuf which will crumble between the fingers without having to pulled out with a watchmaker's loup and a fine needle.
I'm a bit old fashioned. Yes I've been 'into carbides' since- well the beginning of WW2. Again, I helped in the research into cuttings and breakages in very abrasive acoustic tiles and Ive eve n been to Reutte in Austria or is Bavaria where the stuff is mined. Not impressed- sorry.