De Industrie 2VD5

[xander janssen]

Made a medal for the skipper of the tug boat "Odilo" to thank him for supporting me in building this engine.

 

[xander janssen]

A friend 3D-printed me a template for the crank case covers. Next is to deburr it, cast it in heat resistant silicone and replicate it in pewter.

Size is 37x37x2 mm (1.5 x 1.5 x 0.08 inch) with 4 mm (0.16 inch) font.

 

[xander janssen]

Last week CNC milled some flanges, soft soldered the cooling jackets. Next is to pressure proof them with air while holding them submerged under water. No bubbles = succes.

Internally, there is a nice filled of solder. The gap visible on the outside is due to a too large chamfer/debur on the edge of the tube.

3d design of the head is also finished. First will make one prototype from aluminium before machining two from solid brass.

 

[minh-thanh]

Looks great !
Do you intend to start the engine with compressed air ?
That is very interesting and different
And, because.... I'm very interested in ..

 

[xander janssen]

Looks great !
Do you intend to start the engine with compressed air ?
That is very interesting and different
And, because.... I'm very interested in ..

Hi,

I'm not building the air start. The head design is already rather complicated as it is going to be a machined part from bar stock. A casted head would leave more options, but still, adding another functional valve in the already tiny head would give me headaches

 

[xander janssen]

Slow but steady. Finished the pre-machining of the dummy cilinder head. Before I go to the expensive 60mm (2.5") diameter brass, I test all machining steps on a piece of aluminium.

After turning and saw-cutting away the bulk material, the 0,0-ref point is reamed and a reference plane is milled. A sanity check with a 1:1 scale drawing to see if there is enough material for cnc milling the outside profile, hole patterns and recesses.

Once all processes are checked, the two final heads will be a matter of a few hours.

 

[xander janssen]

First and second attempt to make a sand cast mold.

The white 3D printed template is 37 x 37 mm (about 1.5 x 1.5 inch).

Next is to buy pewter.

 

[kf2qd]

the way to finish that material would be with a honing or lapping.

 

[xander janssen]

the way to finish that material would be with a honing or lapping.

Which material? The 3D print or the final tin/pewter product?

 

[xander janssen]

1st time casting. Really happy with the result. Three more to go.

 

[xander janssen]

Paint test to see if the paint adheres well to the tin.

 

[xander janssen]

Increased the temperature of the tin to improve the details in the casting.

Now it even flows into the narrow vent holes.

 

[kuhncw]

Your casting looks much better. The letters are crisp.

Chuck

 

[GreenTwin]

I can attest to the fact that getting crisp letters like that in a casting is very difficult, even using bound sand.

Hats off to you for that casting quality !

Some have stated that vents are not needed on a sand mold, and in some cases that may be true if the sand is coarse enough to pass any air and gasses out of the mold cavity, but I always use vent holes in the high points of the mold cavity, in the cope (top part of the sand mold), since I did get air trapped in the high point of a mold one time, and it ruined the casting.

But as you mention, metal that flows up the vent holes is a good indication that the pour temperature was hot enough, especially when pouring iron.

If you get aluminum or a similar metal too hot (I generally pour aluminum at 1,350 F), then it tends to penetrate the sand and cause a very rough surface finish.

Looks like you nailed the pour temperature, ie: not too hot and not too cold.

Any idea what your pour temperature was?

.

 

[xander janssen]

The knobs for the crankcase covers and the first cilinder head outside milled.