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Dave's Cracker Loco

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dreeves

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Well I'm going to take the plunge into building a loco. I picked the Cracker because a few others here have built it so I can get some help if needed. I looked at shreds posts and I'm going to modify my engine so the wheels will be on the outside of the frame. I spent 2 hours in autocad redrawing the plans (If you want to call them that) alot of info or the plans are missing. I also took pictures of an old steam engine that is at the Lukins Steel museum in Coatesville,PA
Here are some pictures of the engine




The last picture is of the cab. Notice that the boiler takes up a lot of room. I would not want to have to be the engineer of that one.

I will post pictures when I start making chips
Dave
 

1hand

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Dave,

Nice project, I like the look of the outboard drives.

Matt
 

dreeves

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well this is my plan. I hope to modify the frame enough to get the wheels on the outside and to modify the engine mount to keep it in the same location. I redrew the plans in autocad and then moved things around to get to where I'm at with this picture.


I hope on starting in metal as soon as I get the gears. I want to make sure I get the correct center distance before I waste metal. I will be using .125 thick aluminum on the side frames and the deck.

Dave the soon to be train engineer :big:
 

Tony Bird

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Hi Dave,
Did you know that Cracker was based on an American geared locomotive that had twin vertical cylinders one either side of the boiler. It had a cast chassis that allowed it to be standard gauge when the wheels were arranged outside and narrow gauge when they were inside.

Regards Tony.
 

dreeves

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Thanks for the info. I made a few parts this weekend. I will post a few pictures soon.

Dave
 

dreeves

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Well here are the first 2 parts. They are the front and rear bolsters. They are modified to allow the side rails to be on the inside with the wheels on the outside. The bolts on the top are 2-56 and the side ones are 4-40. I will be using hex head bolts when complete.



Dave
 

dreeves

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Well this weekend was fruitful. I got some work done on the cracker. I made the side rails and the floor. I will complete the side rails when I get the gears. I need to get the center distance of the gears. I made the side rails and the floor 1/2 inch longer on the rear. You wil see it when I get the wheels on the frame. I read the other posts and took some from each. I think it was Tony who advised that a little longer in the rear would give me more room for the gas tank. Here are a few pictures of the frame so far



The coin is a 1907 Indian head pennie I found in my back yard on friday night.

Here is a picture of my old shop teacher who stopped by to do some work on my machines


Dave
 

dreeves

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Well I spent some time in the shop making chips on the cracker floor. I made a fixture of corian to hold it for machining. I used (3) 1/4 inch pins to index the plate. I also used (6) 2-56 bolts to hold it to the fixture. I made 4 holesin the corners with a .150 Dia drill to make it easier to cut the center out prior to switching to the .1875 Dia cutter used to cut out the pockets for the motor and flywheel.









Here you can see the extra I added to the back of the base


Dave
 

dreeves

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More progress of the cracker Loco. I got the gears from the brown truck yesterday. I spent last night working with autocad to get the gear center distance correct. I made a test block to check my numbers. (special thanks to Shred) :bow: for his help with the gears



I had to make new side rails due to the gears being larger. I also drilled all the holes for the axle's as well as the motor mounts.





Here are pictures with it all together








The 4 2-56 bolts that hold the motor are most likly overkill bbut did not want it to flex.
Next I need to make the bushings and the axles so I can get the gears put together.

Dave


 

4156df

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Looking good, Dave.

Has Corian as a fixture. Something I hadn't considered, but that looks like a good idea. Has it worked out the way you thought it would?

Dennis
 

dreeves

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Dennis,

I have used Corian as a fixture material several times. I always do a surface cut prior to any work and the cuts are always light. The corian is good for down and dirty fixtures. I get the corian from a friend in the business thats why I use it for everthing I can.



Dave
 

dreeves

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Got some work done on the boiler today . It was a pain to fine a short section of 1 1/4 copper pipe. I was able to get a 2 foot section from a plumber friend. It was L copper which has a thick wall which makes it eaiser to chuck without bending. The bushings are brass with 5/16 24 threads. Im not much for solder so I will be getting a friend do it for me.

Well here it is





Dave
 

dreeves

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Got more done on the cracker today. Got the engine parts done and put together. It runs :big:

Well here it is
<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/VitZY64CE2A?hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="

I need to get the boiler soldered up next.

Dave
 

BMyers

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Looking good ! I stressed for a long time about soldering the boiler then one day I just did it.
 

dreeves

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I have never done silver solder before. I have no clue what kind to buy. Any help would be great

Dave

P.S. Thanks for the kind words
 

shred

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Hit up one of the many silver-soldering threads on here for more details, but I'd get the 0.031" BAg-1 wire from SRA-solder.com. It's got cadmium, so vented area only.


 

dreeves

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Got some more done on the cracker today. I went to the hobby shop and picked up a length of O gauge track. I started the wheels. I made them out of 1.125 Dia brass. I Parted them to .250 thick and then put them in a machinable collet. I turned them to 1.000 Dia by .1870 length. I then turned the 2.5 degree taper on the rim. I did not cut a taper on the face.

Here are a few pictures of the progress today.








Hope to get more done tomorrow

Dave
 

dreeves

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I did not get much more done today. The wife had a honey do list for me. I did get the recess area in the wheels done. I made a radius form tool to cut them .040 deep. In the picture I used a black sharpe to color them. I will paint them black with a white pin stripe on the outer ring. I also made the boiler saddles. I made them out of black corian. I'm hoping that it will hold up to the heat.

Here are a few more photos





Thanks for taking a look and feel free to comment always looking for input .

Dave
 

Tony Bird

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Hi Dave,
Looking good. I wouldn't worry about the paint on the wheels they don't get very hot. It looks as if the false saddle and fire box are made from some insulating material, this makes a big difference to how hot the chassis gets. On the Crackers I have made I used pieces of machined hard wood for insulation. The boiler was held down by a thread soldered in the bottom of the smoke box which goes through the saddle and is held by a nut under the footplate. This thread has quite a large diameter so a hole can be drilled through it to allow exhaust water to drain from the smoke box. Hope you find this usful.
Regards Tony.
 

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