CNC or Dro

[gabby]

Hi all, I guess this subject has been beaten to death over the years but, which is better to use in the home hobbyist environment.
I am thinking seriously about putting something on my mill to make it way more accurate than my eyeometer as I am growing tired of making 5 to get 1 usable item.
Which has the most benefits Cnc or Dro and which is the easiest to use?
Recommendations most welcome from you guys that use this equipment.
Many thanx in advance
Graham
;D

 

[kjk]

Putting a DRO on a Mill is a life changing experience. I had one on my SX3 and loved it. I got tired of cranking handles and went looking for power feeds, but decided that I could spend a little more and go CNC. For a while I had both the DROs and CNC, but the DRO is really redundant in that case and I took it off. I still have it actually and may re-task it to the lathe one day, but the scales really aren't right for my lathe.

With the CNC setup, I use the mill manually quite often with a shuttle to provide stable feed rates however fast or slow I want to go. Of course I use it in full CNC mode as well and have made a lot of things that way. When you want to turn out 10 of something, it really shines.

 

[RonGinger]

This is really an Apples vs Oranges questions. A DRO will add great ease of use to your manual mill, and will take almost no learning to use.

CNC is a whole new world that opens up a lot of new capabilities, but at a great cost both in money and in earning time.

 

[blighty]

no DRO v DRO v CNC is like night and day.

no DRO is a pain in the bum. with dials that may be hard to read or only go down to 0.05mm etc. plus the backlash issue with dials.................

DRO's they have lots of setting's, mm or inch, no backlash problems easy to read etc............

CNC... with a push of a button you can make near-enough anything....ish and just watch it. ok, you may have to do many hours of cad/cam stuff before you push said button, but that's not the point.

if you had to make the part in the pic below....... DRO's or CNC

 

[Tin Falcon]

A DRO is akin to a GPS it tells you where you are on the part and how far you have gone.


A CNC is more of an autopilot. set the course and push a button.
Tin

 

[deverett]

A DRO is akin to a GPS it tells you where you are on the part and how far you have gone.

A CNC is more of an autopilot. set the course and push a button.
Tin

Very good analogy, Tin.

CNC may have lots of advantages over manual machining, but for me, it is the computer thing that is the mental block. I don't like computers, although I appreciate what they can do, so CNC is highly unlikely to feature in my workshop. (But I do have proper DROs on lathe and milling machine).

Dave
The Emerald Isle

 

[gabby]

CNC may have lots of advantages over manual machining, but for me, it is the computer thing that is the mental block. I don't like computers, although I appreciate what they can do, so CNC is highly unlikely to feature in my workshop. (But I do have proper DROs on lathe and milling machine).

Dave
The Emerald Isle
Thanx Dave,
but that leads me to the next question which is, what is a "proper Dro"?
Graham

 

[Tin Falcon]

chose the CNC route I am still trying to get over the learning sure finding time to learn what to work with it when my mind is clear etc. I still work for a living and often have to solve computer issues of failure to communicate.

IMHO CNC excels in a couple of areas 1)curves easier to do with cnc and 2 repetitive moves like a gears or multiple parts.

cnc or dro make bolt circles easier.


some DRO have computation ablities like calulating bolt patterns.

Tin

 

[rodw]

I am resisting CNC totally because it would make me sit in front of a computer. The appeal of working in a shop for me is working with my hands.

I will say that having fitted a DRO to my Mill a couple of weeks ago I like it a lot!

 

[deverett]

CNC may have lots of advantages over manual machining, but for me, it is the computer thing that is the mental block. I don't like computers, although I appreciate what they can do, so CNC is highly unlikely to feature in my workshop. (But I do have proper DROs on lathe and milling machine).

Dave
The Emerald Isle
Thanx Dave,
but that leads me to the next question which is, what is a "proper Dro"?
Graham

Basically there are 2 types of DRO.
You can mount up the scales that look like digi verniers without the legs, have their own batteries + the option of a remote readout. They are limited to basic reading in either mms or inches. Probably good enough for most work that we do. Cheap, but tend to eat batteries unless you can get a mains adapter.
Then you can get the 'industrial' type with (frequently) glass scales and a remote readout with numerous trig functions in addition to the basic positional readout. More expensive and mains powered.

Dave
The Emerald Isle

 

[gabby]

Thank you all for your comments and recommendations, being in NZ it is not so easy to get the quality gear that is on offer in other parts of the world.
So on that theme, what is the Rolls Royce (brand names) of CNC and DRO as most things are source-able from the inter-web thingy, secondly a mid priced set up., I guess what I am asking is, what do you guys use and how did you arrive at that choice, I have an older Chinese knee mill (Global WM20) where the table is powered left and right with manual up/ down and in /out.
Is there a system that has the drivers to make the manual ops become powered or do they come separate.
I am asking all these Q's coz I have no idea which way to turn.
Graham
Or should I trade it in on a ready machine.

 

[cfellows]

Well, I had DRO's on my mill/drill for a while, but wasn't impressed. Yes, it was convenient at times, but I feel like reliable table stops on both axes is more convenient most of the time.

Haven't had any experience with CNC, but I keep thinking stepper motors on both the X and Y would be fun, and probably useful.

I was thinking that the Table Top Mill retrofit from this place would be nice and easy to install:

http://www.flashcutcnc.com/CNC-kit.php

But their quoted price of almost $4000 kind of put me off that idea!

Chuck

 

[gabby]

Hi Chuck , yes I have to agree with you $3000 is a bit much as that would go a long way towards a new mill with the bells and whistles for me.
Cheers
Graham

 

[Tin Falcon]

A while back I wrote up a thread laying out the basics of a cnc retrofit or build. and some sources for parts.
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f38/getting-started-cnc-18304/
Tin

 

[zoltan]

Thank you all for your comments and recommendations, being in NZ it is not so easy to get the quality gear that is on offer in other parts of the world.
So on that theme, what is the Rolls Royce (brand names) of CNC and DRO as most things are source-able from the inter-web thingy, secondly a mid priced set up., I guess what I am asking is, what do you guys use and how did you arrive at that choice, I have an older Chinese knee mill (Global WM20) where the table is powered left and right with manual up/ down and in /out.
Is there a system that has the drivers to make the manual ops become powered or do they come separate.
I am asking all these Q's coz I have no idea which way to turn.
Graham
Or should I trade it in on a ready machine.

I think this thread would be of interest to you:
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f38/pc-based-dro-20547/

 

[Dave Sohlstrom]

I have one of each. A mini mill I converted to CNC and an Enco mill I installed DRO 3 axis on. Coast me a little over $1000 to convert to CNC and $700 for the DRO.
Each has it's good point and bad points. For simple one off I go to the DRO mill. For complex profiles and repeat jobs that will fit the mini mill I go with CNC.

Some jobs will need to be machined on both machines.

One need to study what you have used you mill for in the past and decide which is better for you. CNC or DRO

One last note. CNC not only requires the mill to be converted you will also need a good CAD program with 3D if you plan any 3D machine work. You will also need a CAM program that will handle what you are planning to machine. All have a steep learning curve.

DRO you can machine parts right from the napkin you drew the part on or from the magazine artical.

Dave