Chinese hit and miss engines

Discussion in 'General Engine Discussion' started by itbookham, Aug 20, 2019.

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  1. Aug 20, 2019 #1

    itbookham

    itbookham

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    Chinese hit and miss engines

    I recently bought a couple of the blue anodised Chinese hit and miss engines from Banggood in China. For the price they seem well machined and put together.

    Nonetheless, I've had problems running both. The first one nearly started soon after I wired everything up and put petrol in the tank. There was a good spark and the engine nearly 'caught' on a few occassions. But after a time, it just gave up completely.

    The second engine didn't fair any better. This time there was no plug was not 'sparking' at all. I tried new batteries, another spark plug, a new Hall Sensor unit, and another ignition unit.

    It would be good to hear from others about their experiences with these engines. Perhaps, I have just been unfortunate with the engines I bought?

    Thanks for your time.
     
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  2. Aug 20, 2019 #2

    Tom 1948

    Tom 1948

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    I got one. Mine is silver and I think its called Euchine. You have to choke it some to start it. Put finger on intake, 2 revolutions, then bring flywheel on compression stroke and give it a spin. With mine I still have to restrict air flow with finger until it starts to take hold. I thought about blocking intake with a piece of light cardboard or something similar with a small hole that would act as a choke. On the one that don't seem to have spark try cleaning plug and turn it over a few times to clear cylinder without plug. Hope this is some help......Tom
     
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  3. Aug 20, 2019 #3

    rlo1

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    My silver one ran great for 2 min, lost all compression. Ordered orings from McMaster Carr, will try that to see if the compression will come back. If not, it will be time to lap the valves.

    PS - I ran my on coleman fuel. Not sure if that is affecting the green orings.
     
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  4. Aug 20, 2019 #4

    Tom 1948

    Tom 1948

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    Each and every time I start mine I lube all pivot points and gears etc. with light oil. Bring psiton up to tdc and with a long spout oil can you can get a drop or two of oil on the cylinder. Also , I don't run mine too long. maybe 6 or 8 minutes max. Just enough to show off. I have only used reg. gas. 87 octane.
     
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  5. Aug 20, 2019 #5

    Engine maker

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    I've had several of the silver engines. All have run just fine with runs as long as 30 minutes on them. First thing, they have no oiler on the piston so you have to treat them as if they were 2 cycle engines and mix about 10% oil in the fuel. I can not stress this enough. I use WD 40. Second you must oil everything that moves or eventually something will seize.

    As for loosing compression it usually happens when there run without proper lubrication or they have a dry bore above the ring. Try removing the piston polish any burrs or scratches off the piston and cylinder and re oil the piston ring and reassemble.

    As for the blue engine every time I look at one I see no ground for the ignition. On the silver one there is a dedicated ground for the ignition! Hall sensors and ignitions don't like the 15000 or so volts running wild around the frame. This may be the reason so many people are talking about blown Hall sensors on the blue engine.

    Good Luck

    Jim G
     
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  6. Aug 21, 2019 #6

    coulsea

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    The ignitions on these can be a problem, some are ok and some will just keep blowing the hall sensor no matter how many earths you add. Mine is very sensitive to the mixture adjustment, and this changes with the weather. I made a starter dog so that I can wind it over with a cordless drill to set the mixture, once that is right it will start with a flick of the flywheel. I have some upsure engines with very similar carby/fuel mixers and I think that when they haven't been used for a while the 2 stroke oil in the fuel will block the jet after the fuel has evaporated, when you unscrew it a turn and choke it to suck new fuel through it clears and can be put back to where it was. the spark plug that came with the engine died after a couple of weeks.
    When it runs it runs very well, if you replace the ignition with a rcexl unit and keep it well oiled you will have a good engine that will last for years

    Example of rcexl ignition but it has the wrong plug cap.
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rcexl-S...693376?hash=item33ba493a80:g:aP8AAOSwC~9cRuHS
     
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  7. Aug 21, 2019 #7

    DaveJones

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    Mine did the same thing. Turns out it was the intake valve had stopped sealing properly as a bit of sealant that they use to seal the carb to the head, had come loose and lodged on the valve seat.
    Dave
     
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  8. Aug 21, 2019 #8

    a41capt

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    I have looked at these engines from Banggood and considered a purchase, but always held up because of several design changes from the original that looked problematic... chief among them appears to be the use of viton or butyl rings, and a substandard ignition timing system.

    The original by David Kerzel utilized cast iron rings a standard point ignition timing system, AND used an oiler for the piston.

    There was a YouTube video that discussed mods to the Banggood Engine, including the removal of one of the governor springs to slow it down. As I don’t own one, this discussion regarding the various work-arounds to overcome manufacturing shortcuts is very interesting, and I may yet purchase one to experiment with.

    Perhaps adding the Kerzel changes, lapping valves, and retapping the head for a CM6 plug would be a good start.
     
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  9. Aug 21, 2019 #9

    Stefan-K

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    [QUOTE="Engine maker, post: 327566, member:

    I use WD 40.


    Jim G[/QUOTE]

    Hello all builders

    I strongly recommend all engine builders to not use WD40 as a lubricant for your engine.
    WD40 was never Made For this. Its good for removing oil and grease and cleaning engines. And thats exactly what its made for.
    If you dont believe me, here is a simple Proof. Put a drop of WD and a drop of oil on a piece of Glass. Wait a couple hours. What happened?
    WD 40 ist all gone,vaporised away and the oil is still there.
    Best to use is simple 2-stroke oil Mixed with Gas .About 2 to 5 percent. Depending on the engine.

    Greetings. Stefan
     
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  10. Aug 21, 2019 #10

    Engine maker

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    I've used WD40 in all my hit and miss engines for the last 30 years with no problems. The solvent part of the fluid helps keep the plugs clean and as for the oil residue, (yes, there is lube in there) that's what I want to keep things free and coated with a thin film of oil to prevent rust. I even put a shot in the cylinders after each show to make sure that no rust forms between shows. Bob Shore used to always advise to use it. Do what you want, but it works excellent for me.
     
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  11. Aug 21, 2019 #11

    stevehuckss396

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    I dont use it for lube. I use it because I make my liners out of 12L14 steel and the WD prevents rust and keeps the rings from sticking to the liners during the 6 months between shows.
     
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  12. Aug 22, 2019 #12

    Shopgeezer

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    I attended our local ag museum steam show that has lots of steam and early gas tractors and equipment, all running. My favourite was the hit and miss tent. About 50 engines of various designs and ages were chugging away. One of the volunteers had his two sons with him and each boy had one of the silver Banggood engines as a toy. They were running around with them holding them as they were running and showing everyone how they started. They were still going at the end of the day. I was impressed.
     
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  13. Aug 22, 2019 #13

    a41capt

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    Wow Steve, I just took a close look at your avatar and realized what I was looking at!

    Beautiful work!!!
     
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