Can you shorten a scale on a DRO kit.
- Thread starter rcmadness
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Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:
Sorry to disappoint you, no, they can't be shortened.
But on the other hand, almost anything can be achieved, depends how skilled and lucky you are.
I have actually had one apart, and just looking at it, I wouldn't even think of attempting to do it.
You could just buy an extra shorter scale, as they look to be the standard electrical plug fitting, but that would all add to the cost.
Bogs
But on the other hand, almost anything can be achieved, depends how skilled and lucky you are.
I have actually had one apart, and just looking at it, I wouldn't even think of attempting to do it.
You could just buy an extra shorter scale, as they look to be the standard electrical plug fitting, but that would all add to the cost.
Bogs
There are plenty of other suppliers that do similar scales and readouts and you can buy whatever length scales you need. I've recently ditched the calliper type scales on my X3 and bought scales to suit the travel, 370mm and 170mm, Also gor a three axis readout and will add a z scale shortly.
The grizzley looks very similar to the ones done by DRO Pros.
http://www.dropros.com/DRO_PROS_Milling_Machine_Digital_Readout.htm#DRO_PROS_2M
Jason
Cedge
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try here.... http://cgi.ebay.com/3-axis-DRO-Axis...l-Seig-X3-/270586896852?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0
I own it and wouldn't part with it for love nor money. Fits perfectly on the X3 and SX3. No affiliation, but one very satisfied customer, as are the others on the board who use it.
Steve
I own it and wouldn't part with it for love nor money. Fits perfectly on the X3 and SX3. No affiliation, but one very satisfied customer, as are the others on the board who use it.
Steve
Thanks for all the replies. I did some figuring and I believe I am going to buy the standard X3 and put a DROPRO 3 axis DRO on it. From what I can tell it will do exactly what I want it to. I really don't need the swivel head, tapping button or for that matter any of the little do dads they add on to the Super X3 if I have a 3 axis dro.
I the DROPRO folks even have a video of the exact set up I just listed.
Thanks Again.
By the way JasonB what length z scale are you going to use?
I the DROPRO folks even have a video of the exact set up I just listed.
Thanks Again.
By the way JasonB what length z scale are you going to use?
Macona,
Can you give us a brief description of what to do and look out for, as I for one would like to shorten one of mine, ideally by 20mm.
When I saw that very shiny and precision glass scale staring at me, not to mention the rollers and read head, I just gently slid it back inside the case and forgot about ever trying to do it, and I am the sort of person who will give most things a go, but to lose 120 squid for a silly mistake, was not a gamble I was willing to take at that time.
Bogs
Can you give us a brief description of what to do and look out for, as I for one would like to shorten one of mine, ideally by 20mm.
When I saw that very shiny and precision glass scale staring at me, not to mention the rollers and read head, I just gently slid it back inside the case and forgot about ever trying to do it, and I am the sort of person who will give most things a go, but to lose 120 squid for a silly mistake, was not a gamble I was willing to take at that time.
Bogs
rcmadness said:
It will likely be either 570mm or 620mm I've not really had a good look to see how to mount one yet. This is quite a bit longer than the travel but the extra length will mean its easier to mount at the top & bottom of the column.
I also went for the slim scales as they are quite a bit smaller than standard as there is not as much room on an X3 as there is on the bigger machines, the covers for these scales are worth getting as its easier to mount the alloy extrusion of the cover and then just screw the scale to it. This is the UK supplier I used
http://www.machine-dro.co.uk/index.php?target=categories&category_id=3
Jason
Warco sell a vernier scale and remote digital read out. The vernier scale can be cut to the required length.
http://www.warco.co.uk/Digital-scale-with-attached-remote-readout-32C4E98774.aspx
John-Som
http://www.warco.co.uk/Digital-scale-with-attached-remote-readout-32C4E98774.aspx
John-Som
Jasonb, I put an note on my DRO print out to get the slim line scales (thanks to you), I was wondering which i should get. Hopefully I will be ordering the DRO by the end of the week. 1. I am waiting on a check to get to me so I can pay for all this 2. I will have to make sure Grizzly has the mill.
Macona, you have Bogstandard on the edge of his seat. It appears you have most defiantly peaked his interest as well as mine.
John-Som- I have the vernier scale readouts like you are describing on my mini-mill and they work very well so far. However my wife has asked me to get whatever I want on this piece of equipment and a flashy LED readout really trips my trigger. (she has seen me show great frustration at my Mini-Mill) Yes I plan to keep her and no I wont have her talk to your wife. ;D
Macona, you have Bogstandard on the edge of his seat. It appears you have most defiantly peaked his interest as well as mine.
John-Som- I have the vernier scale readouts like you are describing on my mini-mill and they work very well so far. However my wife has asked me to get whatever I want on this piece of equipment and a flashy LED readout really trips my trigger. (she has seen me show great frustration at my Mini-Mill) Yes I plan to keep her and no I wont have her talk to your wife. ;D
Having just ditch the vernier type scales with remote readouts in favour of a proper DRO you will not be disappointed, the functions that the unit has make life so much easier and I've not had cause to use them all yet.
Jason
Jason
RC,
You are quite correct, I made a statement which I thought was reasonable, but I did leave a get out clause.
Knowing quite well that there was most probably someone who had taken the risk.
Now Macona has the answer somewhere, I would not only like to modify my own glass scale if there is not too much risk involved, but modify my brain cells with the correct information, so that in the future, I will be able to give an answer of YES it can be done, DO THIS ...................., BUT..............................., and don't blame me if it doesn't work afterwards.
Bogs
You are quite correct, I made a statement which I thought was reasonable, but I did leave a get out clause.
Knowing quite well that there was most probably someone who had taken the risk.
Now Macona has the answer somewhere, I would not only like to modify my own glass scale if there is not too much risk involved, but modify my brain cells with the correct information, so that in the future, I will be able to give an answer of YES it can be done, DO THIS ...................., BUT..............................., and don't blame me if it doesn't work afterwards.
Bogs
Bogstandard- I hope you do not feel "I called you out" with my "edge of his seat" statement. I was simply trying to say you would be anxiously awaiting his method of reducing the length of a glass scale. As would I too would like to enhance my brain cell activity on the subject. I really liked the option the vernier type scales offered by simply cutting them to fit.
RC,
Certainly not. You have nothing to apologise for at all.
I too am looking forwards to an answer.
I went the vernier scale route on my old mill/drill, but over the course of a couple of years trying to keep it going, I had spent more than the cost of a glass slide system, even by trying all sorts to keep the nasties away.
But it is like everything else, not everyone has the means to lay out large wads of cash for an expensive system, and the vernier system does do a good job, within it's limitations. If the manufacturers would just look for a way to make them more swarf and moisture tolerant, then they would be absolutely great.
Troy,
The bit I was worried about was not the mechanical side of things, but actually cutting the glass scale. The surface finish looked sort of 'clean room technology', and I was scared to death that even a tiny bit of dust or a fingerprint on the laser etched surface would put it out of action for good.
Bogs
Certainly not. You have nothing to apologise for at all.
I too am looking forwards to an answer.
I went the vernier scale route on my old mill/drill, but over the course of a couple of years trying to keep it going, I had spent more than the cost of a glass slide system, even by trying all sorts to keep the nasties away.
But it is like everything else, not everyone has the means to lay out large wads of cash for an expensive system, and the vernier system does do a good job, within it's limitations. If the manufacturers would just look for a way to make them more swarf and moisture tolerant, then they would be absolutely great.
Troy,
The bit I was worried about was not the mechanical side of things, but actually cutting the glass scale. The surface finish looked sort of 'clean room technology', and I was scared to death that even a tiny bit of dust or a fingerprint on the laser etched surface would put it out of action for good.
Bogs
macona
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The anilam scales were very easy to cut down. Take off the end caps, pull out the rubber strips. The glass scale on these is held in with a long piece of nitrile rubber. Pull the rubber out and the glass will come out. Make note which side the engraving is on. Cut aluminum frame to length and machine end to like the old one was. Use something like a carbide scribe and score the glass and cut it. Put the glass back in its track. Stretch rubber cord and put it in its slot. When you let go it expands and holds the scale in place. Slide in seals and cut all the rubber to length. Install reader and put the end back on.
The heidenhain scale was not so easy. The scale is glued in place. But I found I could make a rather clean cut through the whole thing, glass and all, with the bandsaw. Imagine that. Blade seems OK. Still a new bandsaw blade is cheaper than buying a new shorter scale.
I would say a DRO is a must have on a lathe. It makes everything soo much faster and repeatable.
The heidenhain scale was not so easy. The scale is glued in place. But I found I could make a rather clean cut through the whole thing, glass and all, with the bandsaw. Imagine that. Blade seems OK. Still a new bandsaw blade is cheaper than buying a new shorter scale.
I would say a DRO is a must have on a lathe. It makes everything soo much faster and repeatable.
RC & Macona,
Many thanks for the info, it has given me a little more confidence to have a go at it when the time comes.
I gather there was no problem with a bit of dust or fingerprints.
I do have a glass grinding machine, so cleaning up the cut end wouldn't be a problem.
I thoroughly agree, I actually have four axis on mine, both lathe and mill, and I can bang out dozens of identical bits in no time, plus it is just a matter of taking a mic measurement and feeding what I want off into the DRO and the job is done to perfection. I don't look at the feed handles any more to put a cut on.
Bogs
Many thanks for the info, it has given me a little more confidence to have a go at it when the time comes.
I gather there was no problem with a bit of dust or fingerprints.
I do have a glass grinding machine, so cleaning up the cut end wouldn't be a problem.
I thoroughly agree, I actually have four axis on mine, both lathe and mill, and I can bang out dozens of identical bits in no time, plus it is just a matter of taking a mic measurement and feeding what I want off into the DRO and the job is done to perfection. I don't look at the feed handles any more to put a cut on.
Bogs
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Cedge said:
Thanks for this Steve. I was going to start a thread "which DRO kit for the X3". And also ask why you'd need 3 axis when the Super x3 has a small Z axis readout already. The link demonstrates that as well, the main Z axis is metered allowing 3D machining.
Pete
Pete,
I call mine Z1 for the main up/down, and Z2 for the quill.
I use Z1 for putting the cuts on, and Z2 only for drilling. The reason being, Z1 is more rigid than Z2.
I hope that didn't send you to sleep, zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz's
John
I call mine Z1 for the main up/down, and Z2 for the quill.
I use Z1 for putting the cuts on, and Z2 only for drilling. The reason being, Z1 is more rigid than Z2.
I hope that didn't send you to sleep, zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz's
John
