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Ouch!!... on both accounts. I feel your pain. I was right in the middle of some extensive home remodeling when the Tech Bubble ruptured.

The lift would have made short work of the problem. Just rig it to do the lifting and you're on your way.

Steve
 
I was hoping you'd try it with the engine hoist.. I've got my eye on a local EE, see ;).
 
shred said:
I was hoping you'd try it with the engine hoist.. I've got my eye on a local EE, see ;).

I tried with the engine hoist. From the headstock end the base casting is too wide for me to get the hook close enough. And from the side closest I still can't reach it. If there was a way to get the lathe close to the edge it might work. I think it might reach from the tailstock end, but unfortunately the lathe is too close to the front.

Since it weighs between 2500 and 300 pounds, I'd need to set the boom to the 1-1/2 ton length, which is not that long.
 
Some 1.5" pipe under the lathe. Block the trailer wheels good. Tip the tounge of the trailer up a couple of inches so the lathe will roll toward the back. Put the jeep in front of the tounge and use the winch to control the roll back. On the tailend of the trailer you'll need a ramp to let the lathe down.

Kind of like I did it with the Bridgeport here http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=3080.0

Bernd
 
I had considered something like that. Issues:

1) Lifting the base enough to get the pipe underneath.

2) Jeep is at as friend's place and I'd need the trailer to get it home

3) Building a suitable ramp

In any case, I have a boom wrecker coming at 1:00pm to move it. ;D

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Biga$$ wrecker, the kind they haul semis with. Good thing as its boom was at full extension. Also a good thing my garage door is 10' high - 9' would have been too low.

Lathe is now safely sitting on two pieces of 4x4 waiting for further attention, ;D
 
WTG Kvom, glad you got it sorted, at 3000lbs you not going to need to bolt it down mind 8)

CC ;)
 
Now that's a LATHE
wow.gif


Lucky you :D

Best Regards
Bob
 
The pallet jack is a lifesaver for moving this thing around. Got it in position where the power cable will reach the eventual plug, and finished the major cleanup (old swarf and gunk in the coolant wells).

I put the DRO back in place and did a bit of a test of the DRO vs. the crossfeed dial. They seem to differ between 17 and 1 tenths across a single turn (.125"). Should be plenty accurate for my purposes.

Hopefully it will have power tomorrow. ::)
 
I was hoping to have the lathe powered on Sunday, but my electrician friend didn't make it (issues with his Jeep). Instead I watched the Falcons football game.

Saturday we shopped for flooring for the upstairs. Looks as if we will out down a floating laminate floor that looks like pine.

Today I drained all of the oil in the lathe and relubed it.

We are heading to Florida for a family visit over Christmas; might get the lathe working next weekend.
 
kvom,
The T-nuts may have been hardened, or at least case hardened. Probably ruined the end mill right away, too.

I did something similar with my big vise. The tops of the jaws were not even, nor flat, so I decided to take a couple thou off the top. The fixed jaw was soft and cleaned up nicely, but found out the hard way the movable jaw was hardened. Didn't do any good for the brand new end mill.

Kevin
 
kvom, that is one nice looking lathe, I really like those, bet they are hard to come by, I say that I am going going to buy anymore lathes this year or like my wife said never, not even in the next life, sure would like one like that, the high quality, glad for U, going to have fun now, Lathe Nut
 
I have a line on a local 10EE for a decent price... but while I'd really like it, I've yet to find a reasonable way to wedge yet another lathe in, especially not a 2000+ pounder :(
 
Still can't get the electrician friend to show up with my parts :big: He just got engaged and probably thinks spending time with her is better than with me. ???

The family and I just finished laying the flooring in the upstairs room over the shop. We put down 8mm laminate with a pre-attached padding as a floating floor. Pattern is a medium cherry woodgrain. We did the work over 3 days. The individual pieces are 48"x7-5/8" and interlock. Although they are supposed to snap together, in reality you need to hit each piece with a hammer on a block of wood to get each piece seated to the two adjoining. Still it was easier than the hardwood I put in out living-room/dining room a few years back. The room has 5 corners to cut around plus 3 doors and a small closet, so some planning was necessary to avoid needing very thin strips along the walls at the end. I measured each corner from the start wall and determined that if I started with a full-width row, I would have at least 3" clearance at each corner.

Tomorrow I will get the baseboard and quarter-round moulding to finish it up.
 
The baseboard and quarter round have been painted, so I will be installing them today. Hopefully my back and knees will survive.

My electrician friend has definitely committed to showing up Sunday morning to finish wiring up the RPC and 10EE, so I will cross my fingers that the lathe will power up once that's done. His buddy is also coming over Sunday to estimate finishing the install of the AC units, which are the main remaining to-dos before scheduling the final inspections.
 
I got the rotab mounted today. Cut one of the medium length clapming bolts in half with the angle grinder.

After centering it under the mill spindle, I wanted to use it to round off a brass part on both ends. Unfortunately when rounding the second end the part slipped sideways and gashed the end pof the part.

I think I can probably salvage it. It's part of a crankshaft, so I drilled/reamed the hole about which the end is to be rounded (3/16"). I then drilled a 3/16" diameter hole in the sacrificial aluminum plate on the rotab. I will put a piece of 3/16" drill rod in the hole and through the part, so that it can't slip under pressure of the mill.

Otherwise, I did finish the baseboards upstairs, got the showerhead installed (it was missing from the box I got a Lowes, so had to ask them for the head and the pipe).

I had an A/C guy come by to get an estimate for finishing install of the units. The friend who was going to do it for free has disappeared from view. :mad:
 
Good news and bad news:

Good news is that the RPC/3PH wiring is all complete. Lathe is connected to a wall receptacle and the remote switch will turn on the idler motor and panel. ;D

Bad news is that hitting the motor start switch on the lathe results in exactly nothing. No clicks, whirrs, etc. :mad:

Fortunately I have the wiring schematic for the lathe, and the Monarch forum guys on PM are really supportive. I was hoping not to have to dig into lathe's electrical innards though.
 
Keep at it KVOM. Those Monarchs are notorious electrically, but when their running......SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!


 

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