Bridgeport on wood floor joists and plywood???

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Chris
If you haven't found it, there is a "not-so-obvious" lube point on the table for the X-Y leadscrews. Centered on the table, at the bottom of the center T-slot, is a SHCS. CLEAN THE CHIPS OUT.*

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Center the table to the saddle on the X axis. (I measured both ends of the table to the saddle edges and scribed a witness line).

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Now, remove the SHCS and put 10-20 drops of way oil down the hole.*

See you this weekend
 
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So I finally got set up and began using the Bridgeport today. I squared up a part...no problems. I began drilling a couple of holes when all of a sudden the "On/Off" D-Lock switch shut off...right in the middle of drilling a hole.

I thought for a moment I blew a fuse or something. I shut the box off and turned it on again and it turned right on....so I kept drilling. Then it seemed to shut off every minute after that. But as long as I kept shutting it off and turning it on I could keep drilling.

Looks like I need a new On/Off switch or box or whatever the hell it is.

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I believe your problem is that the overload switch is tripping. The on/off switch has a device in it that shuts the mill off it pulls too much current. If you notice the off button also says reset. When the overload trips you push the off button to reset it which would explain why it will restart after you shut it off. I would make sure that it is wired for the correct voltage that you are supplying. It appears from one of the pictures that it has a 480 volt plug on it. It is unusual to have 480 volt residential service.
 
I'd say start with a good foundation check with local building codes as to proper depth and "other" requirements. Make sure your foundation is above grade as per code. Ask about a termite shield, sill seal insulation, required sill and placement of anchor bolts. If you are going to pour a concrete slab, check soil conditions. If you have sand add 6 x 6 - 10/10 WWM. If you have clay then you will have to remove it per code add sand and gravel. Above all add a vapor barrier. Use teco connectors if building a wood floor. Also, you can use 2 x 6 joists but the floor would be unstable for the usage you seek. I strongly recommend 2 x 8 or better yet 2 x 10 D. F. with 3/4" sub flooring. Be sure the walls are thick enough to be insulated via code. Add collar ties or ceiling beams 2 x 6 would do, check for proper insulation and ventilation codes.
 
Chris
Can you put an ammeter on it to see what it's drawing under load?

Rob
You must have missed the previous 4 pages.;)
 
Yes Stan I can borrow one. I'm going to talk with the electrical guys today at lunch. I'll keep you posted!
 
So it looks like the Square-D Start/Stop switch has 3 overload (heaters) on the inside. When I re-wired the motor to 220V that made the current increase. The 3 overload switches have to be rated for the higher current...apparently they are not.

These overloads are probable not something I can buy at Home Depot.

Anyway...when the machine was running....it ran great! My 12ft by 7ft shed is now full of aluminum chips!
 
Funny...my local electrical supply shop had them in stock for $20/each.

I got them off Amazon.com for $12/each! Even with shipping the total was almost half the cost.

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It might be worth that $5000 if the draw bar system and DRO are of good quality.

I still say it's a bit much by any standards, but I guess it's anyone's choice and money. :)
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Alexandra
 
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