Boxford model A Restoration

Discussion in 'Tools' started by thezetecman, May 16, 2008.

  1. May 16, 2008 #1

    thezetecman

    thezetecman

    thezetecman

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    After a reading some of the posts here and going to see some import lathes I have decided to restore my Boxford that fell of the back of a lorry ( really fell off about 4 feet)

    I did a quick patch up repair when I first got it. and used it to make and repair a few clocks. My latest project is to be a sterling engine. But While i am deciding on the design I have decided i must sort this lathe out as accurate work is possible but only with a lot of setting up.

    The bed apart from one mount is in good condition.
    Spindle run out is better than I can measure <0.005 mm which I think is ok?

    I have repaired the gear box mount and thanks to a reply here discovered my reverse idler wheel is missing. I have tracked a possible source of these down.

    The most damage was to the cross slide, skirt and motor mounting

    I have manage to weld the skirt up and the motor mounting bracket and it works quite well. but need to strip and clean the clutch. ( bought some cast iron welding rods at a car boot a box lucky find:))

    All advice is welcome but especially on the following:

    I have a 4 jaw chuck that works well but it takes me an age to set up any tips?

    I have a 3 jaw bernard that has about 0.3mm run out at 1 inch from the front the jaws are quite loose am I correct in thinking this is now junk or drill vise for round use only? (spindle run out only <0.005mm)

    I have been looking for a new 3 jaw chuck and have seen 125mm ones from the usual companies from £50 to £200 are the £50 cast iron chuck that much worse than the full steel £80 to £200 chucks The specs look quite similar does a more expensive steel chuck last longer? I would like to buy a good new one and look after it.

    I attach a picture of the underneath of the saddle ( the bit that runs on the bed)

    The bed lock is completely missing and the rear guide is just a straight bit of bar both of which are wrong. This allows the tool post slide assembly will move up and down. Does this matter as the work will push down on the tool most of the time.

    I think this will effect my accuracy and finish?

    If anyone could describe or better still take a picture of these parts i would be most grateful. (even if while fitted on their lathe)

    What material should i use for the rear guide cast iron (not in my stock) bright mild steel or brass? does it need to be adjustable?

    i guess the bed stop can be made of any thing.

    Thanks in advance for you help.
    Paul













    crossslide001.jpg
     
  2. Apr 29, 2012 #2

    MRA

    MRA

    MRA

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    Hi Folks -

    I'm not sure if it is the 'done thing' to resurrect the dead (threads) on this board, but this one asks a question I'd also like to know the answer to - though no-one seems to have responded first time around.

    My new-to-me Boxford 'A' (similar to Southbend) 4.5" / 9" lathe with Norton gearbox etc etc is in bits. It has a jib strip at the back of the saddle, under the bed -there's a pic above - but nothing at the front. The only thing stopping the front of the saddle bouncing around is the engagement of the handwheel pinion in the rack. On mine the saddle clamp is missing, which would I guess provide a little reassurance if it was there, though on pics it doesn't look very substantial.

    Is this normal? Do they bounce? Or does a saddle on V-ways not behave like that?

    cheers

    Mark
     
  3. Apr 29, 2012 #3

    steamer

    steamer

    steamer

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    The Southbend is the same way Mark. The cutting forces keep the front of the bed down.
    I would find a bed clamp.....probably to be found on the "bay".


    Dave

     
  4. Apr 29, 2012 #4

    MRA

    MRA

    MRA

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    That's great Dave - thanks. In the Boxford book I have the clamp looks pretty simple - I may fabricate something for the time being. Must say the internet is a wonderful thing, having found all sorts of posts on stripping the apron over the last day or two (now back together with a working clutch) - and now this!

    cheers
    Mark
     
  5. Apr 30, 2012 #5

    ttrikalin

    ttrikalin

    ttrikalin

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    as dave said,
    the clamp is very simple -- I made one for my south bend 10K with a piece of ally I did not even have to machine -- apart from drilling and tapping.

     
  6. May 1, 2012 #6

    MRA

    MRA

    MRA

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    Well, since I adopted this thread, I guess I'll keep it alive for a little while. Boxford responded promptly to an email query for spares (parts catalogues for A, B, C, AUD etc are online and prices are - in May 2012 - up to date) and even with p&p plus VAT the total is not too bad. Mine has a taper-turning cross-slide, for which the metric feed nut (11x2.5 LH ACME - nice and common, then) is not only available, but a lot cheaper than the part for the standard cross-slide!

    My lucky day - I tried a dummy one with a 7/16 x 10tpi LH ACME tap I happen to have, in aluminium. Close (would handle about 5 threads), but no cigar...
     

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