Bottle Engine completted

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dnalot

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I tend to juggle a half dozen projects at a time and every once in a while something actually gets completed. This time it’s the Bottle Engine project. The engine is of my own design and all the casting, machining, anodizing and plating were done in my home shop.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zv-FsHuod1U&feature=youtu.be

For some reason the engine almost always stops in the correct position to start again without having to give the flywheel a push. In the video I am using 60 pounds of air pressure. When I feed it 100 PSI the engine becomes extremely powerful at low RPM and gripping the small pulley will make the engine flip over and slam the table hard.

Brief description; Steam, Single cylinder Double acting Type, Bore 1.75", Stroke 2" (cm4.45, cm5.08). The Engine was primarily constructed of aluminum with a bronze cylinder sleeve and a one piece steel crankshaft with counterweights. To give you some idea of scale, Height 15" flywheel 6". (cm 38.09, cm 15.2)

I did not use any packing seals, relying instead on long tight fitting bushings. "O" rings were used for the piston rings. The shuttle valve is made of soft brass and it slides on a spring bronze plate inlayed into the back of the steam chest.

All Aluminum parts were anodized to give a nice silver/grey look. All steel parts except the crankshaft were nickel plated to prevent corrosion. The piston rod and the eccentric rod were made of S.S. The piston is aluminum and has two "O" rings for the seal. I did nickel plate one brass part and that’s the steam in-port and out-port manifold.

I wanted the engine to look smooth and graceful with as few fasteners and fittings as possible. I think it looks great and it runs as good as it looks. This is my second engine and unlike the first there are no clickity click sounds. I'm getting better at machining tight fits that align properly.

The cast parts are the bottle, base and flywheel. For information about the castings see this earlier post.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f36/bottle-engine-21080/index2.html

Mark Toland Mossyrock Washington

Bottle Engine -1.jpg


Bottle Engine -2.jpg


Piston.jpg


Cylinder.jpg


Cylinder assy..jpg


Rough Cylinder.jpg


parts.jpg


Crankshaft ASSY..jpg
 

Herbiev

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Very impressive engine. Great movement and great finish. Thanks for sharing.
 

gbritnell

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Excellent job on the bottle engine. I'm very interested in the valve rod guide assembly that you are using. Did you make this up yourself or have you seen it on some other engine?
gbritnell
 

awJCKDup

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What an excellent execution of design, casting, machining and finishing. She runs great too!
Congratulations on a job well done!

John
 

Philjoe5

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Great job on a fine looking and running engine

Cheers,
Phil
 

GailInNM

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Very good workmanship in all phases.
Gail in NM
 

dnalot

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Excellent job on the bottle engine. I'm very interested in the valve rod guide assembly that you are using. Did you make this up yourself or have you seen it on some other engine?
gbritnell
On my first engine I had trouble with the valve rod sticking. I came up with this as a solution to my problem. The set screw in the center of the brass bar sets into a groove in the valve rod. loosen the screw to adjust the valve. System works very well, rod never sticks, easy to adjust. I still need a little brass nut to lock the set screw.

Mark T
 

bullpeters

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Beautiful
Really nice
Is there a photo of the cam/eccentric? Maybe i missed it?
I am very green with this, and cams are my main source of confusion
Envious of your skills
Mick
 

crueby

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Beautiful job!

I also like your solution for the valve guide - have to remember that one.

How is the anodizing done? Is that something doable in a home shop?
 

dnalot

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How is the anodizing done? Is that something doable in a home shop?
Its very easy and not to expensive to set up. The only expense is the power supply. You can get by with a battery charger but a controllable device is preferable. Basicly you just suspend the part in diluted battery acid and connect electrodes between the part and a sacrificial aluminum sheet at the bottom or side of the tank (bucket). apply .025 amps per square inch for about an hour. To do a proper job you need to clean and desmut the part and the part needs to be sealed after anodizing.

See http://www.caswellplating.com/ for more info.

Mark T
 

Sshire

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Beautiful engine. Rarely see an anodized finish. I love the look.
 

Canyonman

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The link to the castings is broken on my computer. Could you send another Link?
TIA Ken
 

Canyonman

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Wow!!! Jack of all trades! Master Modeler, Master Woodworker, Master Caster, Master Forge and all around
Artist!!!! I envy Your Skill! Ken
 
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