Bondo for Aluminum??

[deadin]

Help!!!
I had the piece bolted down to a fixture and ran the end mill just a little too close to one of the mounting screws.
The mill literally unscrewed the hold-down and the work shifted before I could get it turned off.


Here's the result:

Any ideas on how to hide it?? I really don't want to start over.

 

[kustomkb]

If you are going to paint it you can use bondo. (obviously)

Any welding shop would be able to quickly build it up with a TIG so you can skim it back to size. (case of beer in hand) It gets a little gummy after welding, but should blend in with a polish.

Or try this stuff, http://durafix.com/ http://aluminumbrazingrod.com/ I've never used it...

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=1523.0

 

[Stan]

Since I am such a poor machinist, I learned how to cheat. To fix your problem, I would put a countersink in the mill and put a bevel all around the edge so that it looks like it belongs there. There are better tools than a countersink for this, I just don't own them

 

[Jasonb]

Clear epoxy resin used with aluminium powder as a filler will hide it well, I use this more for wood turning but it should be fine for metal. The voids in this bowl were done with it.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Wood turning/?action=view&current=OliveAsh.jpg

Jason

 

[Metal Butcher]

Hi deadin. If you are considering using a filler like 'Bondo' brand, then I would suggest using 'JB Weld' 2 part epoxy.
Its a lot stronger and can machined or hand finished with a file. It also takes primer and paint better than a 'Bondo' type filler. It dos not swell from priming or shrink from aging. I always have it in my shop and use it for all sorts of repairs including minor machining adjustments. :

Here is what it looks like, in case you have never seen it before.

http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

-MB

 

[Jasonb]

I'd assumed it was going to stay bear alloy otherwise JB weld is my usual filler of choice or plastic metal if it needs to be a thicker consistancy, JB can be a bit runny for large areas.

Jason

 

[rleete]

Plug it! Drill out a hole, and turn down a press fit rod to fill it. Press it in, and skim flat. If you still see the line, make an identical one for the other side, and claim it was meant to be there.

 

[Blogwitch]

If it has a matching one, bolt the two bits together, and finish the job off, complete the cut thru both of them, maybe elongate it slightly.

Make a feature of it rather than treating it as a mistake.

You can cover up most mistakes like that, and if you hadn't have mentioned it, most folks on here would have called it a bit of an 'arty' feature you decided to put in.

How do you think I get away with a lot of the crap I make by eye. If it looks right, then it is right.


Bogs

 

[Bernd]

All good fixes have been suggested. I'd like to add another one. I'd use a bit of silver solder and fill it in the machine it.

Bernd

 

[Blogwitch]

Obvious problem Bernd. scratch.gif

Have a look at the topic heading Rof}


John

 

[deadin]

Lots of good suggestions here.
How about I combine a couple?... Kind of between painting and making it a feature'

I come up with this.... ;D

 

[kustomkb]

Done deal.

You use one o' dem new fangled printers fo' dat?

 

[Bernd]

Obvious problem Bernd. scratch.gif

Have a look at the topic heading Rof}


John

See what happens when you just look at the picture and get caught up in the excitement of trying to help fix it, plus if you take a look at the photo it sure looks like a brass/bronze piece of material. Better to read more carefully next time I guess. :wall: oh: Rof}

Thanks John for keeping me on the straight and narrow.

Bernd

 

[Blogwitch]

Don't worry about it Bernd, in my very young days, I soft soldered some aluminium washers to a steel bolt, until someone told me it couldn't be done.

After that, I could never repeat what I had done.


John