Big table on mini mill?

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compressor man

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I have considered buying a larger x-y table and installing it on my mini-mill. I realize that little machine shop offers one but it is only 30% larger and seems to be rather pricey. I have found this one on Grizzly http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-x-18-1-2-Compound-Slide-Table/G8750. I know that I may need to build an entire new base for the machine but that is no big deal. I would really like to hear some opinions on this from you guys.

Chris
 
I bought a similar table some time ago and found the quality unacceptable for any serious work. I'm not sure where mine came from but it was cheap. The Grizzly photo looks as if it is better quality however.
 
Don’t know your situation, but if you need a larger mill, get a larger mill. The benefits go far beyond a larger table, as more mass allows faster metal removal. If able, get a knee mill. The mini mill is handicapped by its lack of mass and rigidity.
 
Looks similar to the Shars table that I have. Added thrust bearings to the lead screw mounts, lead screws are not hardened [hence the lower cost] and after a while the lead screw nuts, just a hunk of threaded cast, grows in slop increasing backlash. Changed the worn out lead screws with new [still not what would call hardened] and used derlin nuts.

When it comes to the Bride and her new kitchen and my desire for new toys, some odd reason she wins every time. Do what you can do with what you have, after all it's called a hobby . . .
 
Don’t know your situation, but if you need a larger mill, get a larger mill. The benefits go far beyond a larger table, as more mass allows faster metal removal. If able, get a knee mill. The mini mill is handicapped by its lack of mass and rigidity.

I do have a much larger mill. However, most of the things I do are so small that the mini mill is much more comfortable to use. I just get tired of so often wishing that it had another inch or so of table travel
 
Looks similar to the Shars table that I have. Added thrust bearings to the lead screw mounts, lead screws are not hardened [hence the lower cost] and after a while the lead screw nuts, just a hunk of threaded cast, grows in slop increasing backlash. Changed the worn out lead screws with new [still not what would call hardened] and used derlin nuts.

Would you then consider this table 'heavy' enough to use on the mini mill and get good results? I do not plan of boring out v-8 heads :D. Just making small engines out of mostly brass, CI and AL, and occasionally steel . I just dont want to buy it, make a new base and then find out that it is too lightweight and not rigid enough.

Chris
 
I do have a much larger mill. However, most of the things I do are so small that the mini mill is much more comfortable to use. I just get tired of so often wishing that it had another inch or so of table travel



I wonder if you could modify the current table to offer you an additional inch of travel?
 
Would you then consider this table 'heavy' enough to use on the mini mill and get good results? I do not plan of boring out v-8 heads :D. Just making small engines out of mostly brass, CI and AL, and occasionally steel . I just dont want to buy it, make a new base and then find out that it is too lightweight and not rigid enough.

Chris

Can't speak as to good results, Table has done every thing I have asked it to do. Made the little beam and frame on it, used it to size the pieces for the winter project gizmo [still in work]. May say 12 inches but found when using .375 end mill effective is around 11. Now gibs adjusted at center at least this unit does tighten up at one extreme, but nothing so much to cause stepper problems . . .

For myself, deciding to learn Fusion 360 needed something to put learning into reality and the bride gives that side eye glance when I start something new, so it's a dance to get my toys without drawing to much of that female attention . . .

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Foozer, thank you for your reply. Are you using that on a drill or a mill?

On another note, I am making a beam right now and yours looks a lot fancier than mine, nice job!

Chris
 
As far as my searches around the internet, nothing under about 300 bucks will be good enough for you to modify your table, they are just garbage and not accurate enough, or the table is made from Ali. OK for a drill press, but not for milling work.

I suppose you have seen this one, normally sold by Arc Euro, but also by LMS, who sell the same items.

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/SX1-Spares/SX1-105-Long-Table

And this

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/SX1-Spares/SX1-111-Long-Leadscrew

I have an SX2P and have found that the above table (as fitted to my new one) would be more than adequate for what you want it to do.


John
 
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Voice of experience 'John' speaks. If I had your mill I'd go the already designed larger table like John illustrated, would be at the end of the day the best route for serious hobby work . . .
 
As far as my searches around the internet, nothing under about 300 bucks will be good enough for you to modify your table, they are just garbage and not accurate enough, or the table is made from Ali. OK for a drill press, but not for milling work.

I suppose you have seen this one, normally sold by Arc Euro, but also by LMS, who sell the same items.

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/SX1-Spares/SX1-105-Long-Table

And this

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/SX1-Spares/SX1-111-Long-Leadscrew

I have an SX2P and have found that the above table (as fitted to my new one) would be more than adequate for what you want it to do.


John

Thank you so much for your post John. Although, I must admit that it is not what I was wanting to hear :(

Chris
 
What is the use of mincing words, just get straight to the point, no matter how much it hurts.

The reason I know those tables are junk is because I have actually had to rework a few of them, just to get them good enough to use on a drill press. The gibs in them are absolutely atrocious.

Sorry about the upset

But personally, if it was me, I would live with the table you already have as one day you will most probably be buying a larger one anyway, that is what most of us end up doing as we get more experience and more challenging jobs.Use your hard earned to buy a bit more tooling instead.

.
John
 
Im a little late to the discussion but did get a laugh out of needing an inch more!


In any event running into machine limitations will always be an issue. Usually the half assed solutions come back to haunt you, so id consider carefully what approach you take.

Given that the only approach that might be acceptable would be to see if a longer table exists in somebodies inventory. Either that or make one out of a castiron blank. Either way im not convinced the extra inch would be worth it.

If you are willing to go to all the trouble of kludging together a questionable build why not just build a bigger mill from the ground up? Go to the local steel supplier and have them cut a machine base out of some 4" thick plate, scrape it flat, mount some linear bearings for the saddle and you are on your way. You mentioned having a larger mill so this should be very doable. Use a bit of square tubing (6-8 inch) for the vertical column to produce a notably better machine than the Mini mill.

That may sound like a lot of work but consider what you have suggested and the overall similarity. At least with a DIY build you use the materials you choose, the same for operating dimensions. If this sounds like too much, i might suggest putting a similar effort into the Mini Mill is also too much. Most people are much farther ahead buying a larger Chinese kit and reworking it into a serviceable tool.

You probably realize that you can buy all sorts of slide assemblies from US and other vendors targeted at professional users. Unfortunately a properly machined single axis slide is not cheap
 

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