BAZMAK a second Lathe

[bazmak]

Well i put everything back together and it does run slightly more noisy
but nothing to worry about.I would rather have the 3 main drive gears
in brass and steel rather than plastic.I now have spares so i can now
start getting some work out of the lathe,and i normally disconnect the leadscrew for most machining except for power feed
I have started to make a no3 MT test bar and although the tailstock
can offset sufficiently its too much for stable machining so will have to
try a new setup using the compound.All trial and error

 

[goldstar31]

Hi Norm,no i am NOT having a go with the simplex i only said i had the plans(drawings)Too long and too expensive at my age.I am just looking for things to do with some of the tools i have made.Thats why i cut the gears
Used my new invalute cutters and the indexer with worm and wheel
Tell me can you offset the tailstock far enough to cut a MT ?. Will have to use a centre and driving dog in the headstock

Apologies but I'm part of a 300 year Tercentary celebration which now involves a 'bunfight' involving some 650 of us and there is no guarantee that we will be returning to our beds at midnight.charity We've already had a WW1 Victoria Cross thing in London complete with the requisite Royalty and a lot of Worldwide invites!

So the poorest answer will have to do and I would mention that there is a kit listed as HK176X with Hemingwaykits but and described as a Setover center by Ian Bradley.

So where are the drawings, you may ask? I actually found them in the 1950's issues of Popular Mechanics which has the Southbend answers for another poster and also Cleeve's Swing Tool of which I have as an original design.
Again, there is other very interesting ideas which should temp the model engineer who might be surprised at just how much still appears by Googling.

What I alsoi found wsas a set of dimensioned drawings for the Offset Tailstock Center was on 'Country Plans again on the 'net. They may have to be re-dimensioned but look sound enough.

I did ALL this a million years ago and then mentioned that a boring head can usually work if the cutting tool is replaced with a centre/center.

Again, it might necessitate using a half centre or waisted ones or even using ball bearings for female centres.

So tomorrow, I will NOT be sober:wall:

regards

N

NB Can anyone offer dimensions for a missing Woodruf Key No90?

Bloody Myford-- mutter, mutter!

 

[goldstar31]

A further few minutes has revealed that I have something called a'No2 Morse Taper Arbour Taper Tool' from Jabus Tools

This follows the general engineering principles described earlier. Except that the adjustment is pegged to give 1, 2 and 3 Morse tapers i.e. without using a setting bar.

In the post came my order for Myford bronze bushes------and wait for it, a unexpected cheque from the tax people which was enough to buy the proposed Metric Lathe.

I definitely will not be available for much tomorrow

Regards- hiccup- burp

Norm

 

[bazmak]

just a try out

 

[bazmak]

Hi Norm glad you got the lathe.Now that Angie has solved our problem of posting photos so easily thru the forum without using a 3rd party host like photobucket,i can again start posting.If anybody out there needs photos reposting then let me know and ii will add to this thread.The small aluminium
QCTP i bought for the mini lathe works well so i have bought a 250-100 for the
larger lathe with one holder.Will fit it to the SC4 lathe and give it a try.Will then make a family of holders to work alongside my std 3 and 4 way tool posts
Will post with photos i hope Regards barry

 

[goldstar31]

Hi Baz

I'm sure that I am not alone in being pleased to see you back and that Angie seems to have also found a solution. Long may it last!

Actually the 'new' lathe has yet to arrive but the price is right and I'll have to pick your brain about additional chucks and 'this and that'
The price, regardless of anything, is trifling and if it all goes pear shaped, I'll not worry

In addition, I'm sort of getting a 'new' workshop. I have a nice cleaning lady and a very 'with it' husband. The latter is going to strip my old and leaking wooden shed and build around the now rotten timber. I'll now get height and more width.

I live- confession, confession in a very snobby area and people don't like people who have hobbies.

Oddly, the news has just been published about the desirability of of exercise, hobbies and whatever to stem dementia which is the UK's largest killer.


To add to things, I must now learn to take photos and - maybe publish.

Watch this space


Norm

 

[Blogwitch]

Baz,

If you are going to be making your own holders for the 'Aloris' type QCTP, don't forget to make some only half height.

These can be used with say 1/8" to 1/4" tooling, even 3/8" at a push (I have the 200 sized QCTP so normally holds 1" tooling), and because of the lower strain on small sized tooling, it doesn't require the full height of dovetail to keep them rigid, and if the holder doesn't completely cover the piston part, they work just as well. Maybe you will require some slightly longer adjusting screws to get you down to centre. Normally you can get two holders out of the material of normal height ones, so saving a lot of work and material costs.

John

 

[bazmak]

Thanks John, please keep us up on your health problems,which i am sorry to hear about.I will start a thread on the QCTP once i get it fitted.I bought one toolholder only so i can use it and get dims for making more.I may buy more
as they are $25 a pop but good quality.By the time i have bought steel and screws etc and machined everything it might be better to buy more basic ones and just make specials.Nice to see you are still keeping an eye onus and still posting.There are a no of friendly posters i class as favourites and you are one of them. Regards barry

 

[Blogwitch]

Thanks Baz,

I don't want this little malady to come to the fore, I will just keep going until I can't do it any more.

It is a shame you don't live nearby, a couple of years ago I picked up a piece of bar about 4ft long that is perfect for making the smaller sized holders (or even the larger ones, but less of them), it was one of the jobs that were destined to be completed, and now is just sitting in my metal pile rusting away.

John

 

[bazmak]

Making a test bar for the beNCH LATHE

 

[Niels Abildgaard]

Hello Baz and nice test bar.
Can You test concentricity between conical(MT3) and cylindrical sections?
It is also nice to see a tangential tool at work.
How does it compare chatter-wise to the QCTP on the small lathe, working hard?

 

[Cogsy]

I'm curious Baz - how did you make it accurate to +-10 microns? That seems extreme precision for an unground bar, or maybe I missed something?

 

[bazmak]

I machined down the MT3 using the compound then blued and polished down
down to a good fit.With the bar bolted in to the lathe and with tailstock fitted
i took a few thou off in sc4 lathe to improve concentricity and nearer to size
I then transfered to the small lathe and checked.Not too bad.Then i took off another couple of thou checking size and parralelism. In this way i turned down the bar from 25.4mm to 25.1mm,continually moving the bar between lathes
and locking the MT3 in various positions.I then polished down with various
grades of paper to less than half a thou with the mike and a final finish checking with my digital mike which reads to 3 places . Got the full length to
+/- 0.010mm Near enough for me,but obviously defined by the lathe and the micrometer specs.Just an excercise really.I want it to check the alignment of the 25mm housing bores on the tailstock turret.Not tool room precision but
adequate for a home model engineer. Dont know how the ambient temperature will affect it but i probably wont be able to measure it either. Regards Barry

 

[Niels Abildgaard]

I machined down the MT3 using the compound then blued and polished down
Then i took off another couple of thou checking size and parralelism. In this way i turned down the bar from 25.4mm to 25.1mm,continually moving the bar between lathes and locking the MT3 in various positions.
. Dont know how the ambient temperature will affect it but i probably wont be able to measure it either. Regards Barry

Thank You for answering. It sounds to me that Your MT3 lathe spindle holes are spot on .and ground after spindles were put in headstock.Quite swiss and very nice for a low cost ,mass produced hobby lathe.

 

[goldstar31]

Thanks to the stout assistance of two Madmodder members from County Durham, England, I now have a Sieg C4 lathe- on my bench.

However, it's a metric C4 with two DRO's. One lights up but the other doesn't. Somehow, I question that the batteries in it were correct.

There seems to be no information on this so can anyone help?

So Baz, I sort of have a start. Needs a faceplate and a 4 jaw chuck and a good appraisal for goodies.

Cheers and Thanks

Norm

 

[bazmak]

Give us a photo and full description.Is it an Sc4.8"x 20" Look up on ebay or google.Is the spindle 72mm dia.I will post photos of mine then we can compare and discuss

 

[goldstar31]

The clearest information is that it seems to be a direct copy of Frank Hoose's account for a 'SiegDRO' in 2003-ish.

Mine is a machine made in 2007.

Hoose refers to the similarity with the HF 6" digital caliper SKU47257

As far as I can see, this was powered with a SR44 and not what was in- when I managed with the greatest difficulty to extract.

According to the plate it is 450mm between centres

Really, I'm not unduly bothered about the rest of the machine but I'd like to crack the DRO repair or whatever.

Of course, there must be a helluva difference between a calliper and the DRO. Rambling further, there seems to be a much later mod somewhere of how to dispense with batteries and go onto a transformer.

Any clearer, please?

Norm


PS

Since a 'shelf rest' beloved of dentists, I think that there has been either corrosion- from old age and non use or evaporation of WD-40 but I seem to have a sort of 'lift off' and electrical contact.

 

[Blogwitch]

Norm,

SR44 are the correct batteries for these types of scales.

If you are looking to run them from a transformer, then it is a little more involved than you think.

First off, you require the accessory plug, usually mounted on the outside of the case, unless you want to go digging around in the electronic side of the unit to find where to put the power to. The leads to connect to these four pin sockets are few and far between, Arc used to sell them a few years ago, but stopped.
I had a transformer made by a friend of mine so that it could power not only the scale but also a remote display head.
Problems usually occur if you try to run the unit with a battery installed as well, the battery doesn't like power being fed to it and can explode, so that needs to have a cap across the battery contacts when the battery has been permanently removed, this is to keep things stable when you start the machine motor as the power feed to the unit cables pick up interference from the motor and it is a matter of trial and error to find the right one.

This is the cap on my mill scale, which should have basically the same method of working as yours are. It only took me two attempts to find the right size to cancel out all absorbed 'jitters' from the machines motor.
I just can't remember the size of the caps, but if you do a search online for 'replacing battery with power supply' you should get a few hits to give you an idea of what to do. Some people even make dummy batteries with the cap on it, but I just soldered between the two terminals.


John

 

[bazmak]

Please post the dim basics for the lathe.MAIN one being the spindle register dia
55,72,or 95mm are the 3 main ones.Then we can advise accessories
What is the lathe centre height (swing) and between ctres etc etc
Photos would be good

 

[bazmak]

Niels,the diamond tool works well.Did get a poor finish on the M/Taper
but that was down to the compound not the tool as i got the same with
a no of tools.The length of the taper was just on the limit of compound travel
and i got chatter at the extremes. Will need to look at a lock for the compound
so i can increase tension when reqd to take out the shakes.It wasnt a problem
as i spent a lot of time blueing and polishing to a good fit.This gave me a an accurate seat in the 2 headstocks before i started with the 25 dia section
Again multiple setting,very fine cuts with the diamond tool and finally lots of polishing down.Marked out every 20mm and polished down to 600grit
Not tool room quality but a good enough reference for what i need.The headstock MT3 s were indeed very accurate and i can transfer the bar between lathes with no discernable difference.I want to use it to check the 6 no 25mm dia turret stations in the capstan attachement i made.Should also be of use for
aligning the tailstocks