Bandsaw or Power Hacksaw

[GordTopps]

I have been considering the purchase of a bandsaw for a while now.

Came across this : http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Saws/G1-Power-Hacksaw

What do you think?

Is it worth paying a bit extra and getting a bandsaw?

I do not anticipate much more than cutting stock.

Thanks for any comments.

Gordy

 

[JimM]

Firstly the link doesn't appear to work (well not for me)

But to answer your question, I would go with the bandsaw mainly for the reason that they can (normally) be used vertically with a table for cutting sheet metal etc I know you said that you'll mainly be cutting stock but you never know when you could do with the extra versatility.

I've got this one

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-CMB115-Swivel-Head-Bandsaw-33394.htm

The swivel feature means that you don't need lot's of space in front and behind the saw if you want to do angle cuts on long pieces of stock. Took a bit of fettling to get it to be able to be used vertically but would recommend it.

HTH

Jim

 

[Mainer]

The link doesn't work for me, either.

There is nothing really wrong with a power hacksaw. But, as JimM says, a bandsaw is more versatile and it will cut faster. If there is not a truly huge price and/or quality difference I'd probably lean toward the bandsaw.

I do find though that I very, very seldom use the vertical mode of my bandsaw. Probably 99% of the time I use is as you anticipate -- to cut off stock.

Power hacksaw blades can be a bit difficult to find, though they are available and one wouldn't have the problem of welding or brazing bandsaw blades.

 

[2manyhobbies]

I have a version of the chinese made horizontal/vertical band saw (very similar to JimM, but the version sold in the US) and it has served me pretty well.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93762

For the money I would buy it again. The secret to getting good use out of this tool is a good quality blade!

Brad

 

[Kermit]

Do spend for a HIGH quality blade. The cheapest ones are just one notch above useless. The cheap models of the name brands will leave you just out of reach of satisfactory operation.

It is similar to a car tire. ANY car can benefit from good tires and even exceptional cars are poor rides with bad tires.

Spoken by one who has purchased blades of all three types,
Kermit

 

[JimM]

Have to echo what Kermit said about getting a decent blade. The cheapy 5 blades for a tenner ar just plain cr*p, I bought these once and virtually had to change blade after every 2 cuts.

Starrett blades are pretty good and come up on the bay every now and then and if you can stretch to a decent bi-metal one then even better.

Another UK source for decent blades was Dragon saws, they've since gone out of business but apparently one of the guys that worked there has set up on his own and is supplying high quality blades, he can be contacted at [email protected]

I've yet to order from them but when my current blades are running low I will be

Cheers

Jim

 

[Lew_Merrick_PE]

GordTopps,

1) An horizontal/vertical bandsaw will have much greater overall utility. Unless you are going to spend big bucks (Euros), be prepared to rework whatever you get. I have one of the ultra-cheapie 4X6 inch bandsaws sold by Harbor Freight. I managed to show up when they were unloading and got one where all the sheetmetal had been munged. I walked out the door (1996) with it for US$40. I replaced the unit pivot with good TG&P shafting. I bushed and bored the pivot journals. I dressed and re-fit the fence. [About 6 hours of work all told.] I then did a very close adjustment. It will cut through a piece of 4X6 in bar overnight -- and leave the newly cut surface flat and square to the two index surfaces within .004 inch FIM (Full Indicator Movement -- the technically correct way of saying TIR -- Total Indicator Runout) and give me a 32 micro-inch surface finish.

2) As noted elsewhere, get good bandsaw blades! The Starrett blades are quite good. The better quality blades sold by Grizzly are fantastic! Once you have your "inside" guide bearings adjusted, leave them alone. Make all your blade change adjustments with the "outside" guide bearings and the fore/aft guide bearings.

3) I have yet to figure out how to embed pictures, but I made a little wooden "table" for my unit. It has cross-cut (mitre gauge type) fence as well as a rip fence. I use a small (1/2 inch or 12 mm) pneumatic cylinder to "push" the fence or the part (cross-cut or rip) so I can walk away and work on other things while the saw is munching away. I use a "double-rod" cylinder, so I can set a (squeeze type) "stop" on the "non-working" rod to control my depth of cut. The cylinder I use (left over from another job) has a 6 inch (150 mm) stroke. I have made a set of cylinder supports that allow me to deal with material up to 18 inches wide/long. I intend to (but have not yet) added a microswitch to turn on a light at the end of the cut.

Now, having said all that, about 90% of the use is in horizontal "drop saw" mode.

 

[Blogwitch]

This link might work a little better, same machine, more expensive price than Arc by 50 squid.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/sessionI...-Axminster-SIEG-G1-Powered-Hacksaw-366124.htm

This is the one I purchased, and it works for me absolutely great. Just one mod, I found the air support strut was a bit strong, so I fitted an adjustable weight so that I could vary the down pressure.

http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=1397.0

As you can see with mine, it will fit on a benchtop. Besides that, no stand is supplied or available commercially, so that is another consideration you have to take into account.

If I had the room, which I definitely don't, I would have gone for both hacksaw and bandsaw, so I had to decide which one suited most for what I do. It turned out I need large and square faced billets most of the time, and this saw gives me that, with flying colours. For sheet metal work I use tin snips or an air powered nibbler, so that side doesn't worry me.

With regards to blades. I have just put the first replacement on, which are readily available, after 18 months and hundreds of bar cuts.
I use Bahco blades at about 6 squid each. I could have the saw cutting in the opposite direction and use the unused part of the old blade, in which case, it would be 3 years use.

It will have to be your decision, based on what you want it to do, and what space you have.

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