Arduino Rotary Table for Dummies

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dazz

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Hi
So if the motor outputs are not protected from a short, that is poor design. There should at least be a fuse. A better solution would be current limiting.
You should first check that there isn't a blown fuse somewhere.

If you or someone you know has some electronics knowledge and test equipment, it should be relatively easy to fault find and fix. Just compare the working outputs with the one(s) that don't work to pinpoint the faulty component.
 

weir-smith

Bruce W-S
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Going back several posts, if you shorted out one pole of the motor, then it should survive as the driver is current limited. If you shorted adjacent poles the outcome could be problematic and to work it out would take a little time via vector anylises. I suppect that this is the case and you have exceeded the voltage ratings of the driver. Since the driver is probably dead, disconnect the motor, turn it on and measure the motor voltages which should be slightly lower than the supply voltage. Disconnecting a stepper while energized causes very high back EMF which could be hundreds of volts and will kill the driver output chips every time.

As for changing the ratio, I have modified the Sketch so that I can have three different ratios eg 90 to 1, 60 to 1 and 40 to 1 via menu selection. With my modified Sketch, you can have any ratio with in reason just by changing one number. I have made 5 of these controllers for different people who couldn't work it out for themselves.


Happy to share both Sketches with any one who wants them. p

Bruce
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
 

SailplaneDriver

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I haven't seen any posts as to how to mount the stepper to the rotating table. I have a 6" Phase II and chose to use a clamping system on the shaft housing. Here are the drawings for what I did. An alternative is to make a solid plate instead of the mount on sheet 2 and attach it like you would index plates. I use a spiral aluminum coupling between the stepper and the rotating table. Here are the drawings if anyone wants some ideas of a mounting arrangement. You will need to adjust the dimensions to your particular rotating table and shaft coupler. It was done in Fusion360 if anyone wants the CAD files. I'll post some photos when I reattach the stepper motor after fixing the electronics.
 

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iamroyce

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I have not done much yet but plan to set up and try the code for learning purposes but looks good so far.
 

iamroyce

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Going back several posts, if you shorted out one pole of the motor, then it should survive as the driver is current limited. If you shorted adjacent poles the outcome could be problematic and to work it out would take a little time via vector anylises. I suppect that this is the case and you have exceeded the voltage ratings of the driver. Since the driver is probably dead, disconnect the motor, turn it on and measure the motor voltages which should be slightly lower than the supply voltage. Disconnecting a stepper while energized causes very high back EMF which could be hundreds of volts and will kill the driver output chips every time.

As for changing the ratio, I have modified the Sketch so that I can have three different ratios eg 90 to 1, 60 to 1 and 40 to 1 via menu selection. With my modified Sketch, you can have any ratio with in reason just by changing one number. I have made 5 of these controllers for different people who couldn't work it out for themselves.


Happy to share both Sketches with any one who wants them. p

Bruce
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Hi Bruce, I would love to get a copy of the sketches as I are retired and am interested in learning about the Arduino and steppers. It gives me something to fill in my spare time. I did 2 years in a tool making apprenticeship and moved up country and finished my apprenticeship in fitting and turning. My email is
roycesouthen@gmail.com I have been working on using DC motors as steppers and ran an big old Cincinati mill with them for milling encoder disks.
 

SailplaneDriver

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SailPlane Driver - where did you get the electronics box?
Aliexpress. Look for post #46 in this thread.

Everything will fit but it is tight. I used industrial double stick tape to hole the boards to the bottom of the case. The display will center in the existing cutout if you modify the two top holes in the board to match the position of the screws that clamp the case together. You also have to cut off the four pins on the serial board and solder directly to the stubs since they interfere with the posts in the case. An alternative is to enlarge the cutout and shift the display down toward the keyboard.

I also wound up removing the headers and soldering directly to the Arduino for a better connection.
 

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