Anzani "Y" engine 1/4" scale

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bobden72

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As my Cirrus project draws to an end I am looking forward to my next engine. I have decided to build the Anzani "Y" 3 cylinder engine. This is a long shot but,has anyone out there got drawings, castings laying around wanting a good home. Or indeed advice on the build in general.
Bob
 
Hi thanks for the links, I have sourced the drawings. Thanks to you I have sent a message via Model Engine Builder to Mike Cole about castings, but don't hold out much hope as I have read that he is not active on the site.
Once again thanks for your response.
 
Are these the plans you have?
http://www.modelengineeringwebsite.com/Chenery_2.html

Yes, from the discussions on MEM, sounds like there is a possibility of castings from 'somewhere'. But I didn't follow the story or what the odds of success are.

If push comes to shove maybe there's a possibility of making the crankcase from bar stock? I don't know how complex it is & what features the casting may have offered other than the look. I'm also not sure if the castings include more than the crankcase. Let us know when you have more info.
 
Hi thanks for the links, I have sourced the drawings. Thanks to you I have sent a message via Model Engine Builder to Mike Cole about castings, but don't hold out much hope as I have read that he is not active on the site.
Once again thanks for your response.

Mike is active on MEM http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php maybe you should try him there :thumbup:

Jo
 
Hi I believe that the castings include the crank case and cylinders, I will let you know if successful. Chewing the crank case from the solid was my next option should be reasonabley straight forward, just more swarf.
 
The original Chenery casting set included the aluminium three cylinder castings. The cylinders should be cast iron and have much finer fin pitch which is why Mike made his out of steel.

Mike's set consists of: Three part crankcase, Carb and three elbows for inlet

Jo

410[1].jpg
 
The original Chenery casting set included the aluminium three cylinder castings. The cylinders should be cast iron and have much finer fin pitch which is why Mike made his out of steel.

Mike's set consists of: Three part crankcase, Carb and three elbows for inlet

Jo
Thanks for the pictures of the casting. I have been in contact with Mike and as we speak a set of castings will be winging there way to me. Yes cast iron is the best thing for cylinders, which was going to be my plan anyway. So this week the postman will be busy delivering castings, drawings and the appropriate copy's of ME where the build was serialised.
First I have to strip down my Cirrus clean it and make gaskets, reassemble and see if it will run.
 
I realize this is an old thread, still hope to revive it.
I was pondering on the CAM
This engine has an atmospheric intake valve, therefore the intake can not open unless the exhaust valve is closed AND the piston is past TDC. There may be some vacuum created by escaping burned gas by I doubt that happens without a resonator.
The plans seems to implicate the exhaust closing 60 degree after TDC. That seem late, there is not much suction left in the intake down stroke.

I am pondering building a shorter dwell cam and advancing the opening with the purpose of closing the exhaust just after TDC.

Has any of the builder find the engine running fine with the design timing?
 
Lacking the casting I have carved out them from the billet. Now I am asking if someone has an idea of a suitable propeller. Diameter and Pitch
 
Are these the plans you have?
http://www.modelengineeringwebsite.com/Chenery_2.html

Yes, from the discussions on MEM, sounds like there is a possibility of castings from 'somewhere'. But I didn't follow the story or what the odds of success are.

If push comes to shove maybe there's a possibility of making the crankcase from bar stock? I don't know how complex it is & what features the casting may have offered other than the look. I'm also not sure if the castings include more than the crankcase. Let us know when you have more info.
 
Drawings can still be bought from Les's son. I have a drawing for the W type conrods which Mike also used to do castings for, rest based on Y type parts.

wtype ass.JPG


Mike Cole who used to be able to supply castings from his patterns no longer can as the friend of his that used to do the casting has got too old to do it.
 
Thanks Peter, very useful link. I can relate to the shock shopping for propellers
For testing I plan to put a large prop like 22-24" but for display i like a chopped/partial layered prop. alternate light and dark wood layers like you see in some full scale vintage airplanes. The layered prop I have to make. Have seen none around.
 
I believe John Chenery ran his engine with a 20x8 propeller and saw 3000+ rpm.

When purchasing a propeller be sure to check hub thickness and diameter. In my experience many are much to thin to use with fabricating spacer(s). That would look odd, in my opinion. Also, be aware that with the proliferation of electric motor used in models you may come across props that are fine for electric but not suitable for IC engines. It's best to stick with out fashioned wood.

One potential source of good quality propellers is Falcon but I'm afraid there are inventory issues with the vintage styles. I've no connection with them; only a satisfied customer.

https://www.falconpropellers.com/product/falcon-gas-two-blade-vintage-series-dark-propellers/https://www.falconpropellers.com/product/falcon-gas-2-blade-civilian-propeller/
Yes, prices are like buying groceries ... but still beats starting with a length of lumber and a sharp knife. :)

Regarding the cam design, I haven't run my Anzani yet but did build the cam to drawing. I'm pretty sure the duration will work out fine. The duration may seem long on paper but one mustn't forget that the piston doesn't move very far around top and bottom dead centre for a given crankshaft rotation. We'll see once I get the oil and fuel tanks finished and mounted to the stand ...
Charlie
 
Dang, I wish I did see this before ordering a 22 x 10 Probably near stalling on the bench but I am not flying the engine so even a paint stirrer will do. I like the prop with the armored leading edge.

I am planning of going with a wet crankcase No tank, just the pump.
 

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