anyone interested in a radial team buid
- Thread starter chrispare
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Mike your parts #3-4-5 went out today . Thanks Dale
warranator
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Just my 2c worth. I think dalem9 and myself should have got preference over who gets sent the parts first as we have sent ours out already and they have been received. Not sure how it has been done in the past but that makes sense to me. I agree mikeross could do with a set to match up the crank case but then we should have been next in line. Just my 2c worth. If anyone thinks this post is out of line please speak up, this is my first team build and am not sure of the process.
ninefinger
Well-Known Member
Well, some progress to report - good and bad and some questions...
Good.
My cnc converted mill is behaving quite nicely and lets me do some of these repetitive tasks quite nicely - just setup a stop on the vise, pop in the part and press go. So I've got the 4 attaching screw holes figured out, the 2 steam transfer holes and the cylinder hole so I can go into mass production on those - rinse and repeat 3 times per case.
Questions: the drawing calls up M3 holes for all the holes on the cylinder side of the case. 1) looking at Stew drawings the steam transfer holes are 3mm so that is what I'm going by 2)the threaded M3 holes - what thread pitch? I just looked in my tap set and I've got M3x0.5 and M3x0.6. Is this my choice and should I be supplying the hardware for these?
Bad.
the piece in the photo is scrap due to bone headed machining on my part and my lathe being crap (I know a poor machinist blames his tools blah blah blah)
My tool post keeps moving on me no matter how tight I make it and I kept loosing track of where I was - so I ended up boring the inside too deep by quite a lot. You can just see in the picture the steam transfer holes breaking through
So I need to tune up the lathe a bit before I do that operation again - I know what is wrong - just need to fix it.....
Next question - for the 0.375" hole on the back of the case - any opinions on the tolerance for it? I ask cause I have a reamer that is supposed to be 0.375 but when I used it I ended up with a hole closer to .378" Is this operator error? I had left quite a bit of material there - maybe too much? The alternative is I use a boring bar to sneak up on the diameter but that will take a lot longer (BTW I am planning on doing this hole and the front 1.250" hole in the same setup for concentricity purposes.)
Thanks guys,
Mike
Good.
My cnc converted mill is behaving quite nicely and lets me do some of these repetitive tasks quite nicely - just setup a stop on the vise, pop in the part and press go. So I've got the 4 attaching screw holes figured out, the 2 steam transfer holes and the cylinder hole so I can go into mass production on those - rinse and repeat 3 times per case.
Questions: the drawing calls up M3 holes for all the holes on the cylinder side of the case. 1) looking at Stew drawings the steam transfer holes are 3mm so that is what I'm going by 2)the threaded M3 holes - what thread pitch? I just looked in my tap set and I've got M3x0.5 and M3x0.6. Is this my choice and should I be supplying the hardware for these?
Bad.
the piece in the photo is scrap due to bone headed machining on my part and my lathe being crap (I know a poor machinist blames his tools blah blah blah)
My tool post keeps moving on me no matter how tight I make it and I kept loosing track of where I was - so I ended up boring the inside too deep by quite a lot. You can just see in the picture the steam transfer holes breaking through
So I need to tune up the lathe a bit before I do that operation again - I know what is wrong - just need to fix it.....
Next question - for the 0.375" hole on the back of the case - any opinions on the tolerance for it? I ask cause I have a reamer that is supposed to be 0.375 but when I used it I ended up with a hole closer to .378" Is this operator error? I had left quite a bit of material there - maybe too much? The alternative is I use a boring bar to sneak up on the diameter but that will take a lot longer (BTW I am planning on doing this hole and the front 1.250" hole in the same setup for concentricity purposes.)
Thanks guys,
Mike
Warren
Actually, I think you made a good point.
Last time (TB 4) we didn't have two people making the same part so when I was done I just sent everyone their parts.
But in this case when I was finished, I thought about who to send to ... ???
I thought the Mike could use a set since the crankcase is critical for mounting. We agree.
After that ... well I put all the names in a jar and had my wife pull them ... thought that would be fair. 8)
Since Chris name came up I put him down next.
dalem9 was next ... (we agree) oops Maverick was next << Edit
So I had good intentions ... just missed by one.
However ... I still have a chance to make good. I went to the Post Office on Monday but it was just too crowded. Tuesday couldn't get there,
I will try again Wednesday (tomorrow). I can take one of the two for Chris ( T_ottoboni would send the extra) and send it to you ... I have no problem doing that ....
Just need some input ...
Pat
Actually, I think you made a good point.
Last time (TB 4) we didn't have two people making the same part so when I was done I just sent everyone their parts.
But in this case when I was finished, I thought about who to send to ... ???
I thought the Mike could use a set since the crankcase is critical for mounting. We agree.
After that ... well I put all the names in a jar and had my wife pull them ... thought that would be fair. 8)
Since Chris name came up I put him down next.
dalem9 was next ... (we agree) oops Maverick was next << Edit
So I had good intentions ... just missed by one.
However ... I still have a chance to make good. I went to the Post Office on Monday but it was just too crowded. Tuesday couldn't get there,
I will try again Wednesday (tomorrow). I can take one of the two for Chris ( T_ottoboni would send the extra) and send it to you ... I have no problem doing that ....
Just need some input ...
Pat
Mike Ross said:
In my very quick look it seems that M3x 0.5 is the one I can find the easiest ... but don't know about other parts of the world.
As far as I know pcw is providing the screws etc.
Oh forgot to mention ... I used 0.5 for the cylinder! <<<edit
As far as the diameter of the .375 hole ... joe_d is making the part (port flange dia is given .3752") goes into that hole, maybe he can get a measurement of his to you or for that matter anyone who has one. I gave the hole size of .3758" just so it would fit. So we are close, I would think that the .378" would work.
As far as why is the reamer cutting a .378" hole?
What are you using to ream (mill, lathe) and what is the hole size prior to the reaming, finally speed of reamer?
Another thing ... are you reaming right after the drilling or coming back later to re-locate the hole then reaming?
By the way the 1.250" the bearing housing is also 1.250" so maybe a tad larger would in order!
Good questions ... answer these now will prevent problems later.
Pat
Hi
Re the port flange: that .3752 dimension was left large by a few thou, figured that it would be nice for
the ultimate builder to be able to "custom fit" it to its' mating hole. One or two of them may have ended up
a few thou smaller during clean-up. As I've already received the crank
assembly, I tried out the fit of the crank return shaft through the port flange. Turns out to be VERY
tight, so a bit of polishing will be needed there as well. That hole was drilled, but not reamed as I
don't have a reamer of the needed size. One could take a skim pass with a boring tool once it is installed,
if it turns out to be necessary.
Cheers, Joe.
Re the port flange: that .3752 dimension was left large by a few thou, figured that it would be nice for
the ultimate builder to be able to "custom fit" it to its' mating hole. One or two of them may have ended up
a few thou smaller during clean-up. As I've already received the crank
assembly, I tried out the fit of the crank return shaft through the port flange. Turns out to be VERY
tight, so a bit of polishing will be needed there as well. That hole was drilled, but not reamed as I
don't have a reamer of the needed size. One could take a skim pass with a boring tool once it is installed,
if it turns out to be necessary.
Cheers, Joe.
ninefinger
Well-Known Member
OK, I'll do a few more test cuts with the reamer to see what happens if I leave more or less material for it to cut, I'll try and get it down to .376 but sounds like it should be ok as is. I'm doing this operation in the lathe with the reamer held in a collet in the tail stock.
I'll tap the holes M3x0.5 - looking around that does seem to be far more common that the M3x0.6
Just to be sure - PCW - did you supply hardware for these attachment points? If so what thread?
Mike
I'll tap the holes M3x0.5 - looking around that does seem to be far more common that the M3x0.6
Just to be sure - PCW - did you supply hardware for these attachment points? If so what thread?
Mike
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Thanks Chris And MERRY CHRISTMAS Dale
warranator
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Received your parts in the mail Joe, very nice.
ninefinger
Well-Known Member
Dale,
Received your parts in the mail - very nice work!
I also got in about 2 hours of shop time - just enough to get all the parts finished to length, so not too much progress but forward motion all the same. Now its just a matter of putting holes all over these pieces!
Mike
Received your parts in the mail - very nice work!
I also got in about 2 hours of shop time - just enough to get all the parts finished to length, so not too much progress but forward motion all the same. Now its just a matter of putting holes all over these pieces!
Mike
maverick
Well-Known Member
Received Joe's and Pat's parts, very nice looking bits. My parts are progressing. Con rods, collets and nuts
are finished. Flywheels are half done, will work on them today.
Mike
maverick
Well-Known Member
Getting closer. Expect to ship all parts next week.
maverick
Well-Known Member
Chris's part,the bearing housing showed up today. I slid the crank through the bearings and tried the collet and flywheel next.
Less than 1.5mm of thread is showing past the flywheel. Barely enough to get the nut on.
A quick check with a scale shows all parts to print. More precise measurements will be taken tomorrow. I'm not sure how to proceed,
any suggestions? Shortening the collet and the "snout" on the flywheel would gain some additional thread engagement. I haven't sent
any parts yet so mods are possible.
maverick,
According to my SW drawings there should be .109" (2.77mm) available space for the nut.
Since you measured about 1.5mm we are looking for about .049" (1.27mm).
What is the thickness of the spacer (item #15) that Chris provided?
During assembly the spacer is trimmed down to about 1.5mm (.059").
So any wider would reduce the space for the nut.
Pat H.
According to my SW drawings there should be .109" (2.77mm) available space for the nut.
Since you measured about 1.5mm we are looking for about .049" (1.27mm).
What is the thickness of the spacer (item #15) that Chris provided?
During assembly the spacer is trimmed down to about 1.5mm (.059").
So any wider would reduce the space for the nut.
Pat H.
