AL320G Lathe - The Big Clean

[bazmak]

One thing you do need as a learner is a revolving centre
About $35 but you will then need the Jacobs chuck and some
centre drills.What extras did you get with the lathe ?
You should have got the Jacobs and a dead centre at least

 

[joco-nz]

Key items I got with the lathe are:

• 160mm 3-jaw chuck with reverse jaws
• 200mm 4-jaw chuck
• Face plate
• Fixed steady
• Travelling steady
• Change gears
• Dead centres 3MT and 5MT
• Spanners and Allen keys
• Oil can

 

[bruedney]

:toilet:

Bring the carbide back to me and we might be able to resurrect it on my Green wheel

 

[Blogwitch]

If you can J, contact the supplier and see if he can obtain you a set of soft jaws for the 3 jaw.
It is the cheapest method of getting high precision with your lathe, and if care is taken should last for many years.

Rather than centre drills, which have a tendency to snap the tip off, get a couple of spot drills. You can use centre drills for putting centres in for say tailstock support, but they were never designed for what people normally do with them, putting in a centre so that you can follow down with a larger drill. Spot drills do a much better job, and seem to last forever.

John

 

[bazmak]

I assume the tailstock is 2MT.If you didn't get a chuck for the
tailstock then don't bother with Jacobs get keyless 16mm
Will save you money in the long run.You may get a Jacobs with the mill

 

[joco-nz]

:toilet:

Bring the carbide back to me and we might be able to resurrect it on my Green wheel

Thanks, we can give it a crack. It looks pretty munted but that doesn't mean its beyond hope.

 

[joco-nz]

I assume the tailstock is 2MT.If you didn't get a chuck for the
tailstock then don't bother with Jacobs get keyless 16mm
Will save you money in the long run.You may get a Jacobs with the mill

Tail stock is 3MT. Jacobs chuck is already ordered along with required shank. Only cost about $45 all up.

 

[Hopper]

Quick way to calculate your RPM for steel is the formula: 400 divided by the diameter in inches.
So for 1" diameter, the rpm is 400. For 1/2" bar, the rpm is 800. For 2" bar, the rpm is 200. And so on.
For aluminium or brass, double the rpm. For cast iron, stainless or high tensile steel, halve it.

 

[joco-nz]

Quick way to calculate your RPM for steel is the formula: 400 divided by the diameter in inches.
So for 1" diameter, the rpm is 400. For 1/2" bar, the rpm is 800. For 2" bar, the rpm is 200. And so on.
For aluminium or brass, double the rpm. For cast iron, stainless or high tensile steel, halve it.

Cool. I had 0.787" of mild steel, that's about 508 rpm per this rule and the closest speed on my gear box is 600 which is what I was using.

Good rule to know.

Cheers,
J.

 

[Herbiev]

Great advice. Thanks for sharing.

 

[joco-nz]

So turning the rule of thumb into table we get:


I'm guessing there are probably some practical limits but this gives a good feel as to the relationship between metric sizes and RPM.

 

[goldstar31]

I'm not so sure! I know little about carbides as opposed to hss and have forgotten my incursions into carbon steel tools.

As far as I am aware, carbides CAN run at THREE times these suggested speeds- assuming that the lathe doesn't blow up or has sufficient power and rigidity.

I'm aware of sweeping statements and I cannot be alone in having a Pandora's Box which is simply gathering such things as Stellite, Black alloys and a plethora of exotica like Wimet,Ardoloy and stuff which will still cut although red hot.

OK, I CAN tackle most with diamond but then I have yet to enter the World of CBN abrasives.

Let's say, the jury is out

Norman

 

[rodw]

Quick way to calculate your RPM for steel is the formula: 400 divided by the diameter in inches.
So for 1" diameter, the rpm is 400. For 1/2" bar, the rpm is 800. For 2" bar, the rpm is 200. And so on.
For aluminium or brass, double the rpm. For cast iron, stainless or high tensile steel, halve it.

The metric equivalent for those that live in countries other than the 2 that still work in imperial units is:

rpm = (320 x S)/D
where:
S = cutting speed in metres per minute
D = diameter in mm

Carbide inserts often have recommended cutting speed on the packet if you look hard enough.

 

[joco-nz]

Thanks for the info on cutting speeds. I also was shown this page recently at a model engineering meeting: http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Reference/CuttingSpeeds.php

Quite a good resource I thought.

 

[Alchymist]

Probably not available down under, but I use Mobil oils for my South Bend. Here in the states I can buy it in 6 oz. bottles from several vendors.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMIP&PMPXNO=945071&PMAKA=505-2002

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=945479&PMAKA=505-1987

 

[radar]

Joco, really nice lathe you have there! Good job!

If I am not mistaken it looks like it was made by a Chinese company called Weiss? I believe. If I am not mistaken that is one of the better machine companies in mainland China.

I haven't had bad luck yet with Chinese stuff- all of my precision stuff came from the fine folks at Shars and it has worked well for hobby work thus far.

 

[coulsea]

England seem to be very keen on using the correct way oil, probably through years of marketing by the suppliers. I did a lot of reading through the forums and came to the conclusion that it is just 68 weight hydraulic oil.
Get it from supercheap when it is 50% off, 5 litres will last years.

 

[Blogwitch]

Coulsea,

I think you will find that we have been in this game for a lot longer than everyone else, so we tend to use the correct oils because we have had more experience than everyone else. I for one am not duped by marketing claims as you suggest, in fact, it is only specialist machine suppliers like the now defunct Myford who claim that you should only use their brand of oils, which turn out to be just like all the other ones except for a massive price hike. I have been working with machinery for fifty years and know exactly what is required of a machine lubricant.
68 grade way oils aren't just normal hydraulic fluid, the correct ones have additives in it to make sure it stays at the correct consistency to prevent metal to metal contact.
It is just like what we call silver solder, we know exactly what it is and how to use it, it seems the rest of the world needs to catch up a little, you only have to look at what is available in the US, no wonder they get confused when we mention it.

But anyway, you just carry on using what you have found, and we will carry on using the stuff we are used to.

John

 

[platypus20]

too bad were so far apart, I got 30-35 gallons of Mobil Vactra 2 wayoil in shop storage, I'd be more than glad to give you some.