A small steam engine

[firebird]

Hi

I have done some more work on the burner tonight. The parts have been in the pickle over night so are are well clean. I decided to silver solder the top in then drill the holes.

The top fluxed and ready for soldering.

After soldering find and mark the centre.

Hold in the chuck on the rotary table in the mill and drill four 6mm holes with a step drill. Sorry about the jump from imperial to metric but I have a length of 6mm OD (5mm ID) brass tube that I am using for the wick tubes so to make life easy I have turned the brass bush to 6mm that way I can drill the centre hole at the same time.

The brass bush in the centre will have a bung with a vent hole drilled through and will be used to fill the burner with meths.

I cut brass tube into 3 pieces then sized them all the same in the lathe. They ended up at 0.485 inches each.

The tubes and bush fluxed and ready for soldering. Not seen is a piece of brass inside the burner that the tubes are resting on to keep them all at the same height.

After silver soldering.

I have made a handle from 1/16 brass rod (brazing rod) by firstly winding around some 1/2 inch brass rod then twisting the two ends together.

Cut to size, bend the ends over 90 degrees and silver solder to the burner tank.

To give you an idea of how it will look here it is under the boiler.

Being all brass it should polish up nicely.

Cheers

Rich

 

[cfellows]

Aren't you kind of worried about the wooden support catching on fire when you light 'er up? :big:

Chuck

 

[baldrocker]

Or melting the plastic tie.
BR

 

[firebird]

Hi

Hmmmmmmmmmmm hadn't thought of that. Maybe I should make a metal one. I'l look into it, thanks for the tip guys. :big: :big: :big: :big:

Just had time tonight to make the filler plug.

Knurl a bit of 3/8 brass.

Turn down and thread 3/16 then drill through 1/16 for the vent hole.

Shape with a round profile tool.

Then part off.

Fitted in the burner.

Cheers

Rich

 

[firebird]

Hi

First job this afternoon was to try the burner. I bought a mop head from the market for a £1.00 that provides plenty of wick material.

One strand is enough to make 3 lengths that are then doubled over and pushed into the burner.

Fill the tank with a small syringe.

It burns OK

I have a piece of 2 inch dia ally tube to make the firebox from. The base is made from 1/4 ally plate.

Marking out.

Cut roughly to size with a 6mm hole in the centre

Drill and tap 6mm a piece of 1 inch dia steel and bolt the base to it with a good washer (home made).

Turn to size and profile the edge.

Grind a tool the same thickness as the wall thickness of the ally tube.

Machine a groove the same dia as the ally tube. I think this is called trepanning.

So far.

Because the boiler tube and ally tube have slightly different inside dia I had to make an adapter. I made it a tight fit in both parts.

Turning the adapter.

Trial fit to the boiler.

Turn down to a shoulder and trial fit the ally tube.

Bore out.

Part off.

I thought I had squared the boiler tube but the bottom wasn't good enough so I very carefully mounted it in the lathe and with light cuts trimmed the bottom.

A better fit now.

Mark out the firebox hole and make two cuts on the bandsaw. ( or fretsaw would do)

Then mount in the mill and with a 1/8 cutter complete the hole.

Fitted together.

Cheers

Rich

 

[Maryak]

Rich,

Another very nice boiler - looking forward to the engine build.

Best Regards
Bob

 

[firebird]

Hi

The engine I will be building to go with this little boiler is loosely based on a set of plans I down loaded. So as not to infringe on any copy right I will just show what I make along with my own drawings.
I have started by making a drilling jig. Its important to get this bit right so I took a bit of care. The jig I made from a piece of 16mm X 2mm mild steel 2 1/4 inches long. The 16mm width is not critical anything that is wide enough will do. If you look at the drawing, the side marked X , just above the 5/32 line, is the only critical side. Set the piece up in the mill vice and clock to make sure its perfectly in line.

Square off one end.

set the datum point and zero the dials. I use a laser centre finder, they are really easy to use. drill the holes.

The finished jig with a drawing.

Cheers

Rich

 

[baldrocker]

This is brilliant, a classic "a picture is worth a thousand words"
Enjoying following along a couple of posts behind.
Looking forward to the engine.
BR. Thm: Thm:

 

[firebird]

Hi

I hope this works BR. If not there will be two of us with fancy paper weights :big: :big: :big:

Anyway tonight I started on the frame. On the plans I have it says use a piece of 1inch X 2 1/4 X 1/4 ally like the top sketch. You could of course use brass. The plans show a small flywheel of steel 1 1/4 dia. I don't have anything that size but I have got a piece of ally 2 inch X 3/8. I'm going to make the frame as per the bottom drawing. The extra height will allow for a larger (fancier) flywheel. The plans also show a small connector (for a small dia push on air pipe) fitted into the end of the frame into the 1/4 inch wide part. I will need to fit a steam connector so I think the extra width of 3/8 will allow for a decent brass fitting.

The piece of ally bar I have.

Marked out with a little extra for machining.

Cut out. The cut out piece would make the foot although I may use a piece of brass for this.

Cheers

Rich

 

[kustomkb]

Another great play by play, nice work!

Thanks.

 

[firebird]

Hi

I did some more work on the frame today. First job was to mount the frame squarely in the mill and machine the inside faces.

Two holes must be drilled, one for the cylinder pivot (1/8) and one for the crankshaft (5/16) The plans I have call for these two holes to be reamed. I have a 5/16 reamer but not a 1/8 so I have just drilled this hole. However I tried several drills on a piece of scrap to find the one that has the best fit to the 1/8 stainless steel round bar I will use for the pivot.

Having found a datum the crankshaft hole is centred.

Then drilled.

Then reamed.

Thinking about it afterwards, a bush will be made to fit into the 5/16 hole so reaming is not necassary.

Then the 1/8 pivot hole is centred and drilled.

Iv'e started a drawing, I'll add to it as we go along.

Make a locating pin as per the drawing. Make it a good fit. I missed a dimension off the drawing. The locating pin is made from 5/16 round bar.

The pin fitted in the frame.

This photo shows how the drilling jig is used. Pivoting on a piece of 1/8 rod and resting on the locating pin. Note the side marked x is the side to use.

Here the frame is clamped in the mill with the drilling jig clamped to the frame. Move the table until the drill enters the jig and drill 1/16. The lower hole is drilled right through and the top hole is drilled just over half way.

Heres a closer look of the hole being drilled.

Turn the jig over and clamp to the other side. Make sure you use the side marked X

After drilling.

A bit more added to the drawing.

Turn the frame over and drill and tap 4mm (or whatever you have) for the foot mounting.

A bit more added to the drawing.

Cut the frame from its parent and machine to 7/8.

Carry a line from the top hole round to the front of the frame.

Drill and tap 3/16 x 40 for the steam pipe connection.

A bit more added to the drawing.

Thats all for today folks.

Cheers

Rich

 

[firebird]

Hi

I have decided to have a go at making a steam valve with which I am hoping to be able to close off the steam and regulate it as well. This is my own design so I am sort of making it as I go along. I started with a drawing to get an idea of sizes etc. but it will be modified as I progress. Don't copy me until I know it works. I said at the start that I intend to fit a water guage and pressure guage as well. All these accesories are not needed for this little steamer, its just me practising.

Anyway heres a sketch of what I am doing. There are no measurements included, I'll fill them in later if it works ok.

I started by chucking a piece of 1/4 round brass and turning down to 3/16. Then centre drill and run the centre drill right in to create a cone shape. The pipe nipple will seat in the cone.

Then drill through 1/16.

Move to the mill and cross drill 1/16.

Then drill 4mm.

Then tap 3/16 x 40. Just a couple of threads will do.

Turn and thread 3/16 x 40 a piece of 3/16 brass bar and drill through 1/16. Part off.

A trial fit in the valve body. It will be silver soldered in.

The body is returned to the lathe and drilled short of final depth with a 3/32 drill. I ground a 3/32 drill flat to finish the hole and give it a flat bottom.

Then a flat bottom hole is made with a 4mm mill cutter.

Then tapped 3/16 x 40. Note the finish tap has been ground to a flat to get to the bottom of the hole.

A trial fit in the frame.

Cheers

Rich

 

[bearcar1]

That's going to be cool when you're finished Rich. Nice work. I like the "more added to the drawings" method. ;D ;D

BC1

 

[firebird]

Hi BC1

I'm working from rough sketches so do a decent drawing as each part or operation is complete, I find it easier that way. I think it shows the progress better as well. Because I photograph each stage I have a good reference library for future use.

Cheers

Rich

 

[bearcar1]

Hi Rich,

That is a great method of documenting a build, the sketches, along with pictures th_wwp are a terrific way of displaying all of the steps involved and makes it easier to replicate at a later date. Keep up the good work and I can't wait to see your stop valve when its completed. Tally HO! ;D


BC1

 

[firebird]

Hi

A bit more work on the steam valve today. I'm not sure if gland is the right word but thats what I'll call it for now. Chuck a piece of 7/32 brass hex bar and drill tapping size for 10BA. Turn down and thread 3/16 x 40.

Counter bore to a flat bottom hole about half way with the previously ground flat 3/32 drill.

Part off and screw into a piece of brass drilled and tapped 3/16 x 40.

Tap 10 BA

The needle is made from 3/32 stainless steel round bar. I don't have a collet that size as yet so I mount a drill chuck in the head stock. Chuck a piece of 3/32 SS and turn down to 10Ba size.

Reverse in the chuck and turn the taper. I set the top slide over 6 degrees.

Reverse in the chuck again and thread 10 BA.

The parts so far.

The needle screwed into the gland.

The gland screwed into the body.

The threaded part screwed in.

I have designed it so that when assembled the needle cannot be accidentally screwed right out and releasing all the steam. The needle comes up to a shoulder inside the gland.

I have made a small hand wheel for the valve from a piece of 5/16 stainless steel round bar. Firstly centre drill and drill tapping size for 10 BA. Move the chuck to the rotary table in the mill, drill six more holes round the edge with a small centre drill.

Turn the rotary table and chuck to the horizontal position and mill six slots. With care you can do this with the same centre drill. Light cuts and very slowly.

Return to the lathe and part off.

Hold the hand wheel in a 5/16 collet and tap 10 BA

A drawing

So far

Cheers

Rich

 

[gilessim]

Thats great looking work Rich!, I admire your patience, not only for your inventiveness but also for taking the time to upload all your clear photos of your progress, you need patience for that too! good on ya!!

Giles

 

[firebird]

Hi Giles

Patience is definitely a virtue thats needed for these small parts. There are 5 or 6 needles in the bin before I got to the one you see here. If the tool height is slightly off centre, if you take too deep a cut disaster happens but new skills were learned today.

Cheers

Rich

 

[Maryak]

Rich,

Patience is a virtue :bow: and one I never have been good at :-\

Best Regards
Bob

 

[firebird]

Hi

The same here Bob but I must be mellowing with age. ;D ;D ;D

Tonight I silver soldered the the threaded bit into the body. For small items like this I use one of these little torches. Very easy to use for small stuff.

After soldering.

Cleaned up a bit, reassembled and test fitted in the frame with a lock nut made from 1/4 hex brass. Note the 10 BA nut on top. Normally the hand wheels would have a square hole in the centre and fit onto a square shank on the needle but I can't machine that small! On final assembly the gland will have a bit of packing, maybe graphite string or a bit of PTFE tape, in the hole before it is screwed in to seal against the shank of the needle and the handwheel and lock nut will be assembled with loctite. Before that I'll drill and tap 3/16 x 40 a bit of scrap ally that I can hold in the vise to screw the valve into for a final polish.

Cheers

Rich