8X12 Lathe in sad shape

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harborfreight8x12
Thanks, I was looking at the Chart and did not notice a 13 thread per inch, might have read it wrong, I have one of those, drives some of those guys nuts, try cutting a left and right hand thread with two nuts and give it to someone, very few people know that there is a right and left hand thread.
Madsciguy
Thanks will keep that in mind incase I do need it, do far I have just wire brushed and 1,000 grit paper.

This is some of the photos that I will post, the bed cleaned well and the two small blocks is what holds the lead screw on the machine, thought I would add a different color to break the all red look, got a ways to go and did get the motor running but will need a switch, guess that is a forward and reverse switch, hope I can find one if any of you know where I can find such one would appreciate do have pics of it, well hope today get some more parts washed and painted, Joe
 

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harborfreight8x12
Thanks, I was looking at the Chart and did not notice a 13 thread per inch, might have read it wrong, I have one of those, drives some of those guys nuts, try cutting a left and right hand thread with two nuts and give it to someone, very few people know that there is a right and left hand thread.
Madsciguy
Thanks will keep that in mind incase I do need it, do far I have just wire brushed and 1,000 grit paper.

This is some of the photos that I will post, the bed cleaned well and the two small blocks is what holds the lead screw on the machine, thought I would add a different color to break the all red look, got a ways to go and did get the motor running but will need a switch, guess that is a forward and reverse switch, hope I can find one if any of you know where I can find such one would appreciate do have pics of it, well hope today get some more parts washed and painted, Joe
For an industrial grade forward/reverse switch, I recommend you try W.W. Grainger. They are a huge industrial supply organization that supplies factories, and have branches all over, and if there isn't a branch near you, you can mail order it. They are NOT necessarily the cheapest, but I can say from dealing with them for many years, that whatever you buy from them will absolutely be the best that can be had, and they stand behind everything with no quibbling. You could probably send your bad switch in to them, and ask them for a proper replacement, and you would get a perfect switch for your lathe. (And it will probably last you the next 50 years!)
 

harborfreight8x12

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Hi Lathe nut. I made the bolt toy from 1/2" stock and I just don't remember how I came up with the gearing for 13 tpi. I'll look in my files and see if I might have an imperial gear selector chart.
Best regards, Al
 

SmithDoor

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For an industrial grade forward/reverse switch, I recommend you try W.W. Grainger. They are a huge industrial supply organization that supplies factories, and have branches all over, and if there isn't a branch near you, you can mail order it. They are NOT necessarily the cheapest, but I can say from dealing with them for many years, that whatever you buy from them will absolutely be the best that can be had, and they stand behind everything with no quibbling. You could probably send your bad switch in to them, and ask them for a proper replacement, and you would get a perfect switch for your lathe. (And it will probably last you the next 50 years!)
If need a wiring diagram I have pdf files on the Grainger drum switch. I have purchased a lot of from Grainger for doors operators. They last better than mag starters.

FYI I have pdf uploaded on this site too.

Dave
 

harborfreight8x12

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I have this gearing chart. You will find solutions for the 13 tpi gearing on pages 6 and 7. This chart, I believe, was from "[email protected]". I do remember it took me a while to get the gears set and this is why I prefer to use a tap and die set as first choice. By the way, I do not have any formal training on the lathe, everything I've learned is from researching the web and from making all my own accessories (back splash, steady rest, traveling rest, extra tool holders, milling attachment, face plates, live centers, dead centers, die holders, etc.).
Best regards, Al
 

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harborfreight8x12

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Baomain 660V 20A On-Off-On 3 Positions 12 Terminals Changeover Control Rotary Cam Switch SZW26-20/D303.3
I found this on Amazon for $10. It is perfectly rated for the motor on the 8x12 lathe. It is a Forward/Off/Reverse switch.
Regards, Al
 
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My personal opinion is to get some Evaporust, and put the small parts in a bucket of that. Once you see the results, you will be willing to do the next step.
For the lathe bed, you have the option of making a tank to submerge the bed, using irrigation pipe, which comes in large diameters. You only need enough to be able to submerge the bed, so it only needs to be 2" longer than the total bed length.
Use Kroil, wait a week, then take everything apart and put it in the Evaporust. No rubbing, no scrubbing, no sandblasting, no chemicals, no abrasion damage. When it comes out of the Evaporust, use water and a brush to clean off the residue, and apply paint to the normally painted areas. Then start putting parts back on it. If you don't have it yet, get the manual and parts list, so you can see where everything goes. Then just work slowly and carefully as you reassemble it, and grease and oil the parts as you go. You can probably have the entire lathe reassembled and ready to run in less than a week, assuming you don't have to hunt for damaged parts. Good luck. Nearly always better to repair something than replace it, especially an entire lathe.
The only thing I might do different is with the bed is electrolysis due to the size. Kiddie pool and an old computer power supply from Good-Will etc. Only because that's a lot of Evaporust unless you do it in patches. Then you really have to stay on top of keeping the section wet.
 
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You all, I was able to find the Switch on Amazon and did get the on and off also, found them on a place called Alibaba, they were three dollars each but had to buy 55 of them, same one on Amazon, 30.00 a month to ship, bet they are the same company ?
harborfreight8x12 thanks for the chart on threading, yes at first looks a lot confusing just getting in my head where each gear is place.
I don't think that I will need more than some cleaning and glass bead blasting for the smaller parts, really cleaned up nice, there was no pitting in spite of what the photo gave the impression of, they just had a light rain start that day those small fresh water droplets might have gave that impression of pitted rust go a few more pieces done, slow going back together, that is one fine built machine, thanks for all the help and suggestions, Joe
 

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You all, I was able to find the Switch on Amazon and did get the on and off also, found them on a place called Alibaba, they were three dollars each but had to buy 55 of them, same one on Amazon, 30.00 a month to ship, bet they are the same company ?
harborfreight8x12 thanks for the chart on threading, yes at first looks a lot confusing just getting in my head where each gear is place.
I don't think that I will need more than some cleaning and glass bead blasting for the smaller parts, really cleaned up nice, there was no pitting in spite of what the photo gave the impression of, they just had a light rain start that day those small fresh water droplets might have gave that impression of pitted rust go a few more pieces done, slow going back together, that is one fine built machine, thanks for all the help and suggestions, Joe
I think you are going to have a VERY NICE little lathe when you are done! Will probably be good for another 50 years of use!
 

harborfreight8x12

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You all, I was able to find the Switch on Amazon and did get the on and off also, found them on a place called Alibaba, they were three dollars each but had to buy 55 of them, same one on Amazon, 30.00 a month to ship, bet they are the same company ?
harborfreight8x12 thanks for the chart on threading, yes at first looks a lot confusing just getting in my head where each gear is place.
I don't think that I will need more than some cleaning and glass bead blasting for the smaller parts, really cleaned up nice, there was no pitting in spite of what the photo gave the impression of, they just had a light rain start that day those small fresh water droplets might have gave that impression of pitted rust go a few more pieces done, slow going back together, that is one fine built machine, thanks for all the help and suggestions, Joe
It's going to look and run like new.
 
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thanks fellows, there sure is a lot of washing, scrubbing and paint to get where it is so far, I machined a bushing and put on the shaft that connect to the gear on the lead screw handle, could pull it in and out a bit but the gear did always stayed in contact but just wanted to tighten it up so make that one, slid it over the shaft and worked perfect, hope to make some more progress today, thanks for the compliment, Joe
 

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