3D printed bevel gear

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Gordon

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I would like to see a pic of the actual gear, especially the tooth "form". The drawing Gordon shows states it a "Gleason" style gear, the one being sold in "Shapeways" appears to have a straight cut profile. I just need to know the tooth profile a little better (Circular thickness?)

John
I don't think that anything has to be that precise. I made the brass gear using a very crude setup and it works. I think that anything close would work. Gleason system seems to just refer to the company which makes the gear cutting machine.
 

Gordon

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I may have to go the same route as you. But im going to have to find a tilt rotary table as Im lacking that in my home shop but really hoping to find someone to draw this up in a cad 3d model that can be posted up so others can print it themselves. Im working on trying to figure it out myself right now just having to figure out which free cad system is going to be the best for me since I havent touched cad in a few years and mainly used mastercam but drawing gears is new to me .

but thankyou for the links the print wll come in very handy
You do not need a tilting rotary table. Just set the rotary table at about 5° off from the mill table. Half of 9°59' on the drawing. I think that even a home made gear cutter would be close enough.

The main reason that I gave up on the 3D print is as someone else pointed out the PLA is not strong enough to hold up under the stress and running in the chips that this gear is subjected to.
 

johnmcc69

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Worth a shot?
(Crude dimensioning shown on drawing to verify some measurements...)
STL file is full scale to the drawings, you'll have to rescale it for shrink depending on the material you use...
John
 

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Gordon

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Worth a shot?
(Crude dimensioning shown on drawing to verify some measurements...)
STL file is full scale to the drawings, you'll have to rescale it for shrink depending on the material you use...
John
I am a long way from an expert on 3D printing and I have not used it for a while but I tried loading your stl file and I am not getting any thing on the Z axis. Just a flat outline. I will try again later when I get more time. I am using Ultimaker Cura software. I am sure that it is operator error. Thanks
 

kvom

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I have a copy of Gearotics that can model the gear and output an STL. Post all the dimensions, and I'll generate it.
 

Gordon

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I have a copy of Gearotics that can model the gear and output an STL. Post all the dimensions, and I'll generate it.
John has generated an STL and and a PDF but I am having a problem loading it into my software. I am sure that the problem is with me, not the files.
 

Gordon

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Played around with it a little more. I have the part showing but I still need more work. More later after I take care of some other stuff
 

MrBoo2u

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You do not need a tilting rotary table. Just set the rotary table at about 5° off from the mill table. Half of 9°59' on the drawing. I think that even a home made gear cutter would be close enough.

The main reason that I gave up on the 3D print is as someone else pointed out the PLA is not strong enough to hold up under the stress and running in the chips that this gear is subjected to.

PLA isnt but it can be printed in petg or abs both are more suitable for gears
 

MrBoo2u

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I have only used PLA. I have a Monoprice Mini printer. I am not sure if it will use other filaments. I will have to do some more investigation.


it should I know the monoprice mini v2 will print abs petg wood pla pla+ metal composites and several other filaments
I have a longer lk4 that will as well. Most printers will print abs and petg along with PLA
 

TSutrina

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A free 3D design program that has gear modeling including bevel is freeCAD, windows, mac, and lenox software. When the software is loaded go to tools and at the bottom add on managers. I have used the STL model from FreeCAD and built and sliced them with Cura and printed them on my Tovo Tornado filament printer.
Text on gears looooo/freecad.gears
Video on gears:
As far as casting and PLA printed gear. Can print a negative model and fill this with cast silicone mold I would make a two part or more mold so the rubber can be removed. Draft is not a problem. Then paint on a thin layer of plaster with fine sand to keep shrinkage down. After a few coats then coarse sand can be used. Then use sand to support this coated gear when casting. Solid plaster crack. There is a special plaster for casting. And even then thin coating are used for big castings. Best bet with HDW plaster is to keep thickness down. You can find investment casting of bronze information on the web. Plaster needs to be dried and warm before casting to keep thermal shock which causes cracking.
As far as metal ZAMAC is the choice for decades on Atlas lathes gears. It an alloy with high strength and low melting temperature. With the thousands of laths sold to hobbyist it is the best choice and you can cast a new one. This article on using ZAMAC for repair shows the process for casting. https://rick.sparber.org/zrp.pdf
 
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MrBoo2u

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Played around with it a little more. I have the part showing but I still need more work. More later after I take care of some other stuff

I played with it a bit in both tinkercad and freecad. from what I saw it was drawn in mm with inch dimensions so I blew it up converting it to the proper mm measurements. feel free to rename the file I forgot to clear a file name and this is just what it saved under lol

This one shows up in proper dimensions in cura slicer for printing. shows about 2 1/2 hours print time for my printer
 

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Gordon

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I played with it a bit in both tinkercad and freecad. from what I saw it was drawn in mm with inch dimensions so I blew it up converting it to the proper mm measurements. feel free to rename the file I forgot to clear a file name and this is just what it saved under lol

This one shows up in proper dimensions in cura slicer for printing. shows about 2 1/2 hours print time for my printer
I have loaded it into my printer and it is printing now. NOTE: I am not an expert on either 3D cad or 3D printer.

The earlier version by John was 35kb and this one is 5256kb. I tried printing the one from John and it just gave me single layer. This one looks t be correct except that it is printing it standing on edge instead of having the hub flat against the table. It may end up OK but it is going to have a lot of overhang. I will know in a couple of hours how it turns out.

I am presently printing using PLA because that is all that I have. If it turns out OK I will buy some ABS and try again.

Thank you for your efforts.

Gordon
 

Gordon

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I have loaded it into my printer and it is printing now. NOTE: I am not an expert on either 3D cad or 3D printer.

The earlier version by John was 35kb and this one is 5256kb. I tried printing the one from John and it just gave me single layer. This one looks t be correct except that it is printing it standing on edge instead of having the hub flat against the table. It may end up OK but it is going to have a lot of overhang. I will know in a couple of hours how it turns out.

I am presently printing using PLA because that is all that I have. If it turns out OK I will buy some ABS and try again.

Thank you for your efforts.

Gordon
I just stopped the print because there is not enough support on the piece and it is too unstable to print. There must be some way to rotate it so that the gear is setting either on the hub or the face. Beyond what I know how to do at this point so I will have to try to educate myself. I played around a little bit with FreeCad several months ago but I will have to re educate myself.
 

Gordon

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OK That was easier than I thought it would be. I just rotated it in CURA and started a new print. Looks OK so far. It is going to be working on this after I quit for supper. Says 8 hours and 26 minutes. It is going to work without supervision.

Than you.

Gordon
 

johnmcc69

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Some interesting observations there.
I created the CAD model drawn in inches so I'm not sure why it had to be resized.
Could it be when you import the file to your slicing software that it's default import settings are metric & would need to be changed to inch units?

I can't explain the file size difference, when I created the STL file I just used the default settings. The model did appear "coarse" when I import it back in. I can tweak those settings if need be.

If you would like, I can send you a STP file to import into your CAD program so you can play with the export settings & see what works for you.

John
 

MrBoo2u

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Some interesting observations there.
I created the CAD model drawn in inches so I'm not sure why it had to be resized.
Could it be when you import the file to your slicing software that it's default import settings are metric & would need to be changed to inch units?

I can't explain the file size difference, when I created the STL file I just used the default settings. The model did appear "coarse" when I import it back in. I can tweak those settings if need be.

If you would like, I can send you a STP file to import into your CAD program so you can play with the export settings & see what works for you.

John

the stl I downloaded showed up as metric in both freecad, tinkercad and fusion360 so Im not sure what happened. it took me a bit to figure out what was going on as it looked fine in cad but when I sent it to cura slicer it only would show up as a spec. it was when I blew up the spec in cura I realized the stl file was showing all the measurements in mm but it woud be great to see if you could refine it so we can pin the file here for other users that may need this gear as well. Im currently waiting on some abs materal to come in and then I will try to print it as well
 

MrBoo2u

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OK That was easier than I thought it would be. I just rotated it in CURA and started a new print. Looks OK so far. It is going to be working on this after I quit for supper. Says 8 hours and 26 minutes. It is going to work without supervision.

Than you.

Gordon
wow 8hrs the difference in print times with some printers is always interesting to me, Cura says print time for my longer lk4 is 2 and 1/2 hours. going to be interesting to see. I may try printing one tomorrow out of pla just to see while I wait for the abs filament to come in in the next few days or months lol never know with usps mail anymore
 

Gordon

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I printed it using PLA and it looks good. I have not tried it on the machine but it looks right. It did indeed take 8 1/2 hours. The Monoprice is a very basic and cheap machine and for the few times I use it it is just fine. It is not like I have to stand there and watch it. It was still working when I went out to the shop to check. I finished at some time while I was in the house. I will probably try printing one later with ABS just to have as a replacement part. The saw is presently working with my crude brass gear and the saw is not used a great deal.

Thanks for everyone's efforts on this.

Gordon
 

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