Grumpy Old Git.
- Dec 6, 2013
- Reaction score
- York, North Yorkshire
Johwen Here You can use a tachometer to adjust each needle to maximum revs at fixed throttle setting or a vacuum gauge but you need to have a balance pipe or drilling on the engine side of the throttles to balance the vacuum across all cylinders once again adjust each to reach highest reading. Hope this helps JohnThat, I'm not sure of (yet).
Thanks for the advice Dave. I actually never bead blasted the bowl that I'm planning to anodize. It was polished, but not buffed to a high luster like the air horns were. Unfortunately, I had already Loctite'd the brass inlet/outlet tubes, and since I don't know how they'll affect the process, I just finished drilling them out. I'll likely do some test parts as you suggest, but if you have any other tips, I'd be glad to hear. So far, my knowledge comes from a couple Youtube videos. - TerryTerry:
Just a word of caution on anodizing. I would be careful anodizing something that has already been sand blasted. Try a piece of sand blasted scrap first of the same alloy. (Which I have no doubt you'll do).
Also I've found if you want a good color match between pieces do them all together in the same batch. In my experience (lots of it) the chances of getting the colors exactly the same between two batches is difficult. There are a lot of variables to be juggled in anodizing and getting them exactly the same between batches is difficult unless you have a professional setup. (temp/time/acid strength/ current density/ color bath concentration and ph /dipping time/ sealing time and temp - to name a few).
Black being the exception. Black is usually black but it can go bad too. Some colors are very difficult - red being one of them.
I'd hate to see your wonderful and beautiful workmanship spoiled by an anodizing job gone bad. And it can go very bad for no apparent reason.
Caswell Plating has a lot of good information and reliable supplies.