2" scale Fowler A7 Traction engine - long term project

[Metal Mickey]

I didn't know whether a steam traction engine in 2" scale was relevant to this forum. However I see there is another Fowler in build so I will share this build with you....It will not be completed soon. In fact another couple of years minimum is my expectation.

To give some sort of idea of what it looks like the picture below will give a guide, although the picture shows it loosely trial assembled.........

I bought the Fowler as an unfinished project whilst I was still in work some 6 or 7 years ago. However my workshop and model engineering has only been running for some 12 months or so and most of that time taken up with other projects (mainly a Mills diesel 1.3cc aero engine).

The gentleman I bought the set of castings and boiler from had bought a full set of gears and a commercial boiler plus he had the wheels built professionally. So I take no credit for them. There were a set of hornplates completed but I re did this work. I also built all the steering work and some other small items.


A picture of some of the items that came with the purchase of the unfinished project.......

After finishing the Mills recently, I can say that only since that time (just a couple of weeks really) have I truly started work on her. So it may be relevant to list here here now.

The first thing I did was to review all the plans (which are nicely yellowed now!). I have trial fitted many items in the past to familiarise myself with the model and gone through the manual to see what needs to be done to get the major item correctly fitted, that of the hornplates. These are the plates of steel that are attached to the boiler (which acts as the chassis) an hold all the shafts (gears and crankshaft) and the rear axle, so it has to be correct.

It was in my 'program of works' for 2008 to get the Fowler standing on its own wheels and have the steam chest bolted to the boiler. I doubt very much that that will be achieved now this year but hope to have it standing on its wheels at least.

So the tasks started on first was to complete the boiler accessories before attaching the hornplates. In particular this meant fitting the fire door, the dummy front plate and the dummy manhole cover. The dummy manhole and the fire door are nearly completed and full details are carried on my website http://www.mikes-models.com/ccfowlerdiary.html.

I am finding that there were some items made early on that I feel I can do better ow and these are replaced as and when. One such item is a long lever that is under construction at the moment and part of which is shown below. Whilst it is not required for the boiler and hornplates it has sat there giving me a dirty look for some time, so its the current task.

[imghttp://i353.photobucket.com/albums/r379/brixham-engineer/fowlerleverandfiredoorfin1109200-1.jpg]http://[/img]

The end of the lever has a handle which I am making separately then silver soldering to the lever body....

I have been surprised at how long it takes, for what at first look seems 'simple'. One example is the fitting of the fire door below.

Anyway I guess it will get more interesting when it comes to the gearing/crankshaft/steam chest fitting.........One thing is for sure.........it will take some time to complete. And once done, what shall I do with it? Well I won't build a trolley and ride behind it. Not that I have anything against those who do, its just i couldn't get down and up again! Hopefully sometime next year it should be running on air........but then again.........

 

[chuck foster]

nice traction engine and it sure does belong on here!!!!

keep us posted as you work on it, seeing step by step progress inspires us to work on our stuff

chuck

 

[Metal Mickey]

Well progress on the Fowler traction engine front at last. Before I can get her to stand on her own four wheels (2008 target) I need to complete the boiler fittings. The fire door has been done as has the dummy manhole plate. The last remaining items to be sorted before I can fix the hornplates (hold all the gears and axles and uses the boiler as the chassis) to the boiler are the dummy throat plate and blow down cock.

Below are a couple of pictures on how I made the dummy throat plate.....

One of my favourite tools is the optical centre punch, worth its weight in gold!

countersinking for the dummy rivets to fit into............

Tinning the dummy plate prior to soldering in place........

Now it needs cleaning up...........

For the full story you can follow the build on my website www.mikes-models.com

 

[Jasonb]

Good to see some more progress, are you going to fit the dummy mud lids? I did mine before fixing the throatplate as it was easier to file the holes to shape and I silver soldered them in place but soft solder will be OK.

Not much progress on mine, been busy with work but have done the spectecal plates and water pocket.

Jason

 

[seagar]

Very interesting ! Thank you for sharing and keep up the good work.

Ian.

 

[Metal Mickey]

Thanks for your comments Ian.

Jason, when I looked at the pans and the thickness around the boiler foundation ring I felt I would be happier tapping/soldering in the dummy mud lids after. I may yet regret this plan ........... :

 

[Metal Mickey]

Managed to get into the workshop today and I have finished a couple of 'bits' for the Fowler traction engine. The build manual for some reason lease the ashpan to late in the build bit for convenience I have decided to do it now so that when completed, she can stand on her own four wheels for real.

After using the 'new' old tapping fixture to tap 18 holes in the side of the boiler for the hornplates, I started on the ashpan by turning up and fixing 4 brass pins onto which the ashpan locates. Today was all about reducing some hardwood to very fine dust. Oh how I hate wood! talk about a mess.........

I made a couple of cardboard templates to aid first profiling. Then one in steel with another to make tomorrow. A couple of photo's to help make sense of the bumbling......

The four pins.................

The main tools....power file and templates and the lump of 'orrible stuff!

 

[Maryak]

Mike,

Good to see you back on the Fowler - Keep up the great work. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob

 

[Metal Mickey]

Thanks Bob.


Well I finally felt well enough to get into the workshop.

I now have the copper and all the other items required to make the ashpan. I have achieved the shape but I wasn't happy with the forming. The annealing went well but the forming didn't. Too much metal became spare at the front corners. I did try to form those first, as recommended in the build manual, but I must have done something wrong!

In the end I had to cut slots and remove the surplus metal. The edges will be silver soldered when it comes time to attach the top flange.

I have got the ashpan nearly there but the front radius is not the same as the plan. The work though is not wasted as I believe I can get a working result that will look ok after cleaning up in the end.

The next tasks will be to machine the 4 stainless steel support legs for the cast iron grate, the damper, its hinges and the holes drilled in the four brass pins. Then the hornplates can be attached.............etc. etc.......

Anyway some photo's may help to show the progress today.....don't forget its still a work in progress!

 

[Metal Mickey]

The ash I am talking about came form the burning of the sacrificial board when silver soldering the top edge to the pan itself!

Today's ash pan session was spent by soldering up the four corners using the highest temperature silver solder I had. The reasoning being that I could use a lower melting point for the connection of the top edge to the
ash pan.

After the corners were done I decided to place the ash pan into the pickle solution whilst I chain drilled the copper sheet being used for the top edge. Once the drilling was completed the sheet of copper was
taken to the Proxxon bandsaw and the inside cut out.

The ash pan was then mated to the top edge and a scribe mark placed around the pan so it could be located again when soldering. The silver solder paste was then mixed and ‘painted’ onto both the edge of the ash pan and the top plate.

To hold the ashpan in place a couple of heavy steel blocks was placed on top and then lengths of silver solder cut and placed against the edge of the ashpan and into the flux.

The ash pan itself was then heated with the propane torch, bringing the ash pan to cherry red, where upon the solder rod melts itself and flows between the joint.

It is important that the flame does not impinge on the solder rod itself, melting it before the surrounding metal is ready. I started work on the left hand corner, moving the flame around to the otherside when the solder started to flow.

The ashpan unit was allowed to cool before placing it into the pickle solution. After cleaning up a little, the ash pan was then placed onto the up turned boiler and pleasingly the holes and pins were still aligned.

The next job will be to file up the inside edges of the ashpan top edge then make the fittings for the grate and the damper plate, not forgetting the holes to be drilled in the four pins for split pins to reside it. It is the split pins that hold the ash pan in place and these are pulled out if the fire needs to be dumped quickly, when in use.

A few words but a lot of work done……………… and more to do before the ash pan is finished!

 

[J. Tranter]

I know this is a strange request especially for this thread but can you show a picture of the bandsaw you are using please.
John T.

 

[Metal Mickey]

Hello John, I have just seen your email so here is a link where you can see the model of machine I have. I guess that you wanted to see the type rather than mine?

http://thehobbyistmachineshop.com/shop26.html

If you want to see mine in particular I will get a photo done tomorrow, but I think the link above will be of more use to you.

 

[Metal Mickey]

Today I spent more time on the ash pan and cast iron grate. Still have the damper and hinges to complete plus the 4 legs. However I did use the tapping fixture I made recently and I was pleased with it. I think I will knurl the handle though and get a better quality chuck. Anyway a couple of photo's......

and......

 

[Maryak]

MM,

Keep up the good work.

If you can get a good chuck from/for a brace and bit they have the ability to hold the tap on its square end.

Best Regards
Bob