0,2 cc diesel engine

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petertha

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I'd like to see your home made grinding head one day if you care to share pictures. I had access to a toolpost grinder for my liners, which worked... but was kind of a pain to set up. Mostly how to dial & lock in very small, precise measurements on the lathe cross slide. But that's another story when I post pictures. Always interested to see how other people accomplished their engines.
 

VALERY56

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My grinding head is installed instead of the tool holder, speed motor 540-12V, grinding wheel D-50x8. The shaft is installed in 4 bearings with clearance adjustment in them.
Grinding head.JPG
Grinding head.JPG
 

goldstar31

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. Always interested to see how other people accomplished their engines.
Years ago, I bought a Bosch POF40 to do some wood routing and discovered that its previous world was being a cheap tool post grinder. Which it returned to with a 1/4 inch collet and appropriate stones. So when a cheap wood router came on sale at one of these European cheap store, I bought one. Incidentally, the Bosch has a standard 43mm collar. which also fits electric drills.
The original thinking was in Ian Bradley's The Grinding Book by MAP used a car generator( ?)
I was one of the few people that hav e actually finished a Quorn tool and cutter grinder and like the Stent and Kennet tool and cutter grinders has a !" cartridge to take an abrasive wheel and this can be detached and used as a tool and cutter 'insert' and can also serve on the table of a milling machine.
BaronJ has recently photo'd his version powered by my gift to him of a 2880RPM 1/6th HP motor.
Classically for small lathes was the Potts spindle which is shown in nLathes.co.uk and comes in a grinding and a drilling configuration. Originally, they were ( Ahem ???) pulley driven!) Clears throat again, I have both!

A few hours ago, I received a phone call to confirm that my purchase of a Potts( ?) vertical slide and dividing head( also in Lathes.co.uk had been packed carefully and should be heading here this week.

More Anon!

Chasing 'Thenths' has been discussed and discussed here and elsewhere. Geo H Thomas in his epic and reasonably priced( £30) has given a couple of versions which he incorporated in his many myfords over a lifetime. One is the addition of a Vernier scale to the saddle feed screw and the other is setting over the top slide and using it only. Of course it really depends on the pitch of the feeds screws to get thev correct angle. In fairly recent correspondence, we were informed of a certain setting and I tasks the writer to explain how he did it and was met with a loud and very stony SILENCE.
FHT in his inimitable striving for perfection, added how to lock the saddle and the vertical slide etc and years ago, I altered the slide on a log forgotten Perfecto vertical slide which is still have and what has done excellent service.
No photos etc because I ran foul with the successors of the failed publishing a few articles from Model mEngineer to help younger model engineers published. I was threatened by the purchasers legal team and the result was surprising,( New) Model Engineer owners finally a sked me to assist- for free, who the copyright holders were.

I greet you well

Norman
 

SPOTTER

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VLERY 56
Congratulations you are very good, you have built lathe and engine, you are a master.
 

VALERY56

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Hello, as promised, a few files of my rig: 1-forming the edges of the crankcase and boring the hole for the cylinder. Shanks D-3 mm for aligning the perpendicularity of the cylinder axis to the shaft axis. 2-drilling and boring the diffuser seat. 3 - turning the crankshaft crank and similarly - grinding the crank, the difference in diameters 9 ** and 2 * - the stroke of the engine piston. The choice of the type of fixtures was to maximize the use of only turning operations.
 

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sniffipn

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Hello, as promised, a few files of my rig: 1-forming the edges of the crankcase and boring the hole for the cylinder. Shanks D-3 mm for aligning the perpendicularity of the cylinder axis to the shaft axis. 2-drilling and boring the diffuser seat. 3 - turning the crankshaft crank and similarly - grinding the crank, the difference in diameters 9 ** and 2 * - the stroke of the engine piston. The choice of the type of fixtures was to maximize the use of only turning operations.
thanks Valery.
neatly drawn. useful to see the part that's being machined, too. looking at the photos and drawing together, I'm better understanding,
  • how and why the part is secured to the faceplate.
  • how the part could be put into required position.
  • and visualising machining the part.

I'll have another look this evening.
curious about the feature (3mm diameter), that has a tolerance.
kind of you to share the detail.
useful ideas and ways of working

I have some rod and steel plate, to make a small faceplate. waiting a day or two, to see whether I can find some 2.5 or 3 inch bar, to slice a disc off.
David
 
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VALERY56

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thanks Valery.
neatly drawn. useful to see the part that's being machined, too. looking at the photos and drawing together, I'm better understanding,
  • how and why the part is secured to the faceplate.
  • how the part could be put into required position.
  • and visualising machining the part.

I'll have another look this evening.
curious about the feature (3mm diameter), that has a tolerance.
kind of you to share the detail.
useful ideas and ways of working

I have some rod and steel plate, to make a small faceplate. waiting a day or two, to see whether I can find some 2.5 or 3 inch bar, to slice a disc off.
David
Hello, I answer: with the help of a dial indicator, beating is controlled on limit switches with a diameter of 3 plus minus 0.002. It should not exceed 0.02 mm. This will ensure that the liner and shaft axes are square. The indicator is installed horizontally in the holder, and by turning the chuck with the faceplate 180 degrees, alternately check the runout of the shanks.
 

VALERY56

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Hello, and at the end of my publication on a 0.2 cc diesel engine, I would like to present you with drawings of its parts. Tolerances and fits are not specified, and are performed with the highest possible accuracy in your conditions. For your information, the prototype (in the video) worked for about 2 hours without any noticeable deterioration in compression and startup. Good luck!
 

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sniffipn

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Hello, and at the end of my publication on a 0.2 cc diesel engine, I would like to present you with drawings of its parts. Tolerances and fits are not specified, and are performed with the highest possible accuracy in your conditions. For your information, the prototype (in the video) worked for about 2 hours without any noticeable deterioration in compression and startup. Good luck!
kind of you to share the detailed drawings, Valery.

reminded me of the of the AE 0.5cc, 'hidden' under my desk. rather dusty after 30+ years - and compression screw a little rusty.

1607796117519.png


once progress made with other projects - and a simpler engine machined first - maybe there will be one machined to your drawings too.

there is a tin of fuel packed away, but sadly, i doubt much ether remains in it.
David
 
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Peter Twissell

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Sniffipn,
A few weeks ago I rediscovered a PAW diesel engine which has been put away for some 40 years, along with a can of fuel.
After a quick clean up, the old engine fired up, using the old fuel!
I think if the can is properly sealed, the ether stays in solution.
Apologies for thread drift.
 

Mechanicboy

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there is a tin of fuel packed away, but sadly, i doubt much ether remains in it.
If the fuel looks thinly liquid like water and smells of ether, then the fuel is fully usable. Seeing the fuel viscous, ether has evaporated away. A tight fuel jug holds ether for many years.
 
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