Search results

Brian, i realize you are building a different engine, but on the single the rod are turned lengthwise so to speak, or rounded over edges. i only say this is thinking maybe he redisgned the blue prints later on and my copy has the redesign? cylinder size and such on yours appear to be the...

Hi Brian, im referring to the upshur vertical single i built close in design to the one you are doing. less complex given its a single but bearings and plates and cylinder were done the same way you are doing on yours except just a single. heres my build. which you and many others gave me...

good point on the sealed bearings. on my single i used sealed bearings but also put a little silicone on the crank as i slid it in the bearings so it would seal there as well. just a very little bit and was on final assembly after it has already been ran and torn down for sealing all over...

on the top plates where the cylinder solders to, on mine i used some bronze bushings like what might be used in an excavator or back hoe boom. someone gave me a plastic jug full of them. i sawed them long ways and then heated / pried them out and once i got them started opening up enough i...

i got them here https://www.cncengines.com/ic.html i think Roy Shull? got my spark plug there to

on the points, my upshur single uses brass sheet with points soldered on and that works really good on mine and was easy fit in small amount of space it had. i like the upshur designs as well so i will want to watch along

cant really check my temp. dont have a way to yet. but i did take note on how the metal was clinging to the side as in was it climbing up the side or level on the crucible. it was level. i fell that the pour was much cooler this time as well because it solidified much much faster than the...

tried a different brand of sand. instead of play sand i picked up a bag of masonry sand. it in my opinion was no better but what i did find is that i reduced the amount of bentonite by 10% volume and also reduced the amount of water i used to wet the sand. this produced a much better casting...

as a kid i saw a meat tenderizing hammer machined by someone in trade school entered in the crafts and such exhibits. it was the most bueatiful thing made of metal i had ever seen, engine turning or jewling swirls, high polish, knurled handle etc. i loved it. from that day on i wanted to learn...

only thing i can think of is that i notice you have an idler gear between crank and cam shafts. all the engines i have built which are very few are geared directly to each other without the idler. meaning they spin in oposite directions because of this. now i know you know this already but...

in the USA we commonly call it coleman fuel found in the hunting/camping supply area in stores such as walmart. hope that helps. and yes i had the same question a few years ago myself. use it for the coleman lanterns and camping cook stoves alot

ah, ok, i also looked back to where you were building the crank and i see both cylinders are hitting tdc at the same time, they are not 180 or opposed to one another which is what i was thinking. so both cylinders hit tdc simultanously and both should fire on compression at the same time so...

im just wondering, your ignition setup is wasted spark right? so it fires both plugs at the same time meaning one plug fires on exhaust and the other one is firring on compression strokes and then after 4 more rotations its hitting the other cylinder on compression. so that said your points...

Thanks BlueJets, on the fine sand part, Growing up my parents owned a comercial pottery which sold plates bowls etc to Parks Belk and other stores. when they retired there were sacks of "silica sand" that was such a fine mesh you were to always wear a respirator when messing with it. back...

Brian i will start my own thread about this but i got an early start and so far bad results. glass scores just fine with the diamond drag bit but just wont break the way i want it to. in fact it breaks all over the place. ill keep trying because id like to be able to do this for my self but...

Hi Brian, my glass is 1/8 spot on. making a full circle in cnc gcode is alot more dificult than i thought it would be but i finally got it sorted out. hope to test cut some glass tonight. just been testing on scratching an old sheet of aluminum.

ill give it a try, i have sheets of glass out of different photo coppiers from work, ill have to see how thick they are been wanting to test this for a while anyhow.

Brian, i should be able to. assuming my idea works. a diamond drag bit is nothign more than a diamond tiped scribing tool mainly used for scratch engraving. i have a small cnc 3018 that i use that drag bit for some engraving. so really all i should have to do is draw a 1.1" in diameter...

when you do the orings and site glass i would really like to see some close ups if you have time. been pondering doing a windows gas tank for a while now. have a diamond drag bit for my cnc router that i hope to be able to use to cut circles in glass with

ok miniscus - is that where the metal sort of lips upward at the edge of the crucible? i dont have a pyrometer maybe Christmas this year but not yet. the center sprue is actually part of the piece so had to make the outer sprues the same length. yes i could cut down maybe half inch of the...